Showing posts with label Cat Breeding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cat Breeding. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

By Birgit Hulsing
Domestic cats make great pets for most homes because they are very easy to care for and generally bond easily with humans. Most of the societies and cultures around the world have made it a practice to adopt cats into their family structures. However, domestic cats do vary quite a bit in their physical design and personalities from one breed to the next. Choosing a cat breed that suits you and your family is not a task that should be taken lightly. Nor should choosing a cat breed that suits you seem like a difficult task.

The first consideration when choosing a cat breed is the size of your living area. You may always think of cats as being leisurely lounge lizards, but many breeds spend as much time playing as lounging. Playful cat breeds need plenty of room to play. Also, the larger the play area and the more there is to do, such as another cat to interact with, the less likely the cat is to go mad if it doesn't see you much for a few days.

That leads to the second consideration when choosing a cat breed. You need to think about how much time your family is going to be able to spend with the cat. If your new little friend doesn't at least get a couple of gentle touches and a cuddle every other day, it will go mad. Although how much attention is necessary has a lot to do with the breed. The other part of the time consideration is that some cats require more grooming maintenance such as bathing and brushing. A busy family should get a cat with short fur.

The third consideration when choosing a cat breed is allergies to cats. These allergies are not uncommon, but there is much variance in the degree in which they manifest themselves. Someone with a very heavy cat allergy probably should not own a cat. Someone with a light allergy that results in a few sneezes or coughs a day can have a cat, but should be careful in choosing a cat breed that will minimize allergen exposure. For example, you will want to choose a cat breed that has short fur and rarely sheds its fur to reduce your exposure.

The fourth, and probably most often forgotten, consideration when choosing a cat breed is the cost of taking care of that breed. Some breeds are hardier than others. Many breeds have common ailments, such as deafness or fur balls, that may get costly in veterinarian visits. Also, a cat that weighs half as much and has a lazy temperament will eat less than half as much as the cat that weighs twice as much and is packed full of energy.

The fifth, and final, consideration when choosing a cat breed is how the personality of the kitty matches up with the other personalities of your family. Cats come in different temperaments. There are lap, child-friendly, indoors, independent hunter, and jealous, one-person cats.

Brigit Hulsing is a cat behaviour researcher and helps cat owners with practical tips and advice on cat toilet training and cat training

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Birgit_Hulsing

Sunday, April 27, 2008

By Colin Hogue

KITTEN OR CAT?

There is nothing more adorable, sweet, or entertaining as a kitten. However, depending on your needs and your home (other family members and other pets), you may for whatever reason decide to get an adult cat. Whether it is a kitten or an adult cat that you choose, please keep in mind that there are wonderful companions at every animal shelter just waiting to become a part of your life and the lives of those around you. Please consider visiting your shelter to save a life while also enriching yours.

A WORD BEFORE WE GO ON

Over the course of 40 years, I have been learning more and more about holistic medications and treatments and holistic preventive health care for myself, and therefore, over a period of time, I have come to have the same concerns and considerations for my furry friends as well. I haven't been sorry. I am now living with the oldest - and sweetest! - cat I've ever had or known. That being said, some of my recommendations may sound careless or neglectful to the onlooker who hasn't researched the issues, but know that I did not arrive at these ideas because they are easier, simpler, or cheaper for me nor am I neglectful in any way. I like to read and know about any health issues, medications, nutrition, or treatments out there - for me or my pets - and therefore, anything that I suggest here has been researched. All of it is a matter of personal choice, of course, but I will share what I know and why I have made the choices I've made.

BEFORE YOU ADOPT OR BUY

You will need a litter box for each cat in your household. Purchase litter. Clay, unscented litter is the healthiest for you and your pet. Plan on just dumping the entire litter box and lining it with several layers of fresh newspaper (Sundays are the perfect schedule for this task since the Sunday newspaper will still be in your home and ready for recycling) each week. I don't like the idea of "scoopable" or "clumpable" litter. Think about this for a moment. It may be easier for us humans to just keep reusing litter, but how healthy is it for your feline companion whose health and well-being has been entrusted to you? What kind of bacteria is lurking in the litter box week after week after week. Clay litter - even when changed weekly - is cheaper and safer for your pet. End of story.

Get some dry and wet canned food for your companion. Just start with a good brand right off. Pay particular attention to ASH content, MAGNESIUM content, and PHOSPHORUS. Consider your cats urinary tract health and kidney health before it becomes an issue. Choose foods that say "urinary tract health" or "urinary tract maintenance" or just choose a slightly more expensive brand, and you will find lower ash and lower magnesium. Most of these more expensive brands do not even contain phosphorus or any fillers. (If you had been feeding your pet no-filler foods during the China wheat gluten pet food scare, you know what I'm talking about. No fillers, and there was no need for concern.) Free feed (leave an unlimited supply out at all times) your companion the dry food and provide canned food at least once in the morning and once at night. This provides a good balance of carbs so that you can also prevent early onset diabetes. Again, what is the old saying? "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." As a personal aside, I feed my senior cat (15 years now and no known disease!) Wellness brand and Petguard brand foods. I get Wellness dry food and Petguard wet food. I have fed her Wellness canned food; however, she seems to prefer Petguard wet food. I cannot find the Petguard dry food in my area, but My Precious Girl is perfectly content with her Wellness dry so I'm satisfied with the choices that I have made for her.

If you have chosen a kitten, make certain to get foods specially formulated for kittens for the first one year of your companion's life. Then, after one year, you can switch to adult food.

Make sure you have dedicated bowls and dishes/plates - preferably unbreakable - for your new companion to eat dry food out of, have access to fresh water, and eat canned food from (for this, I prefer a flat dish). A weighted water bowl never hurts, either.

KITTEN- AND CAT -PROOFING YOUR HOME

Kitten-proof your home before you go get one. In fact, all of what I'm about to say here should really be applied to any pet. Make sure that your blind-pulls are up higher than Ms. Kitty can jump (and they can jump really high) to prevent accidental hanging of your new companion. Make sure that your cabinets are secured and cannot be opened when bumped into. Make sure that no chemicals or poisons of any kind - that includes plants, too, and even some foods! - are out of reach.

If you are having a problem with bugs of any kind in your home, and you have turned to the services of an exterminator or are using a spray or bombs in your home, please make sure that your bug problem is taken care of prior to bringing a new companion into your home. Chemicals of any kind are not safe for anyone or anything. Better to be safe than sorry. Once your bug problem is taken care of, and you have sent your exterminator packing, clean every baseboard, crevice, and any other common area in your home or outdoors (enclosed patio or balcony) thoroughly in an attempt to remove any unsafe chemicals and to reduce Ms. Kitty's exposure.

Get your friend a nice kitty bed, even if you plan to have your new companion sleep with you. You may be surprised at where you will find your friend sleeping. It is nice to offer at least one sensible option.

You may want to get some safe toys for your new companion, perhaps even a scratching post. A word on scratching posts: Did you know that some cats are vertical scratchers and some cats are horizontal scratchers? If you catch your kitty sharpening its nails somewhere in your home, pay attention to what it was using -- was it the arm of the sofa (from a standing position) or was it your carpeting? If it was the arm of the sofa, and your kitty was standing while scratching, go get a vertical scratching post. If it was the carpeting that kitty was using, go get a horizontal strip for your kitty's use.

YOUR OTHER CATS AT HOME

If you already have another cat at home, make sure that your new kitten or cat comes with proof of a negative feline leukemia test and first shots, at least. Also, be certain that it is free of fleas and has either been "wormed" or has had a recent stool sample test negative for intestinal parasites. So very important! Because even though you will purchase another litter box if bringing in a new cat to your household that already has a cat, the cats will inevitably crossover when it comes to litter boxes - in the beginning, at least, and if the new cat has intestinal parasites, your other pets will become infected. That applies to your canine companions as well - - intestinal parasites are contagious by way of feces - - and if you have a dog in your home who likes to visit the kitty box occasionally, your dog is at risk as well.

YOUR DOG(S) AT HOME

I just mentioned the litter box and parasite concern in the above paragraph so that is covered.

Otherwise, it is super simple - from a health standpoint - to bring a cat into the home that has a dog or dogs and nothing else because very few diseases or health risks are transferable between cats and dogs. As I mentioned, fleas and ticks, of course, would be considerations. Fleas and ticks do not discriminate, and neither do intestinal parasites. So, out of respect and concern for your pets who already share your home, make sure that your new companion is pest-free and get that stool sample tested before bringing in your new companion.

Make sure that your kitten or cat has a private place - out of reach of the dog(s) - where he or she can eat and have access to fresh food and water without the dog(s) scarfing everything up when you and Ms. Kitty are not looking. I've been through this, and believe me, it is no fun! Not only will you quite possibly have a dog with gastric problems due to a sudden dietary change, but you will run out of your kitty's food so much faster. If you are like me and feeding a better brand of food, it is especially exasperating because it costs a lot more to feed a dog and your feline companion a better brand of cat food!

A WORD ABOUT DOGS AND CATS WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD

A dog can live on cat food, but a cat cannot live on dog food. If your cat is sharing a home with a dog and seems to prefer the dog food over his/her own cat food, don't laugh too much about this because a cat needs TAURINE which is in cat food but not generally in dog food.

Note: Recent research indicates that dogs' hearts benefit from TAURINE; therefore, some more advanced and progressive makers of dog food are now adding it to their dog foods; however, there is a certain amount of TAURINE required for your cat's diet. So, make sure that Ms. Kitty has a healthy cat food that it enjoys. Your cat's eyesight depends upon it. Your cat can go blind due to a TAURINE deficiency.

Check out my blog for feline health issues and tips for more info.

Interested in canine health issues and tips? I've got a blog for that too.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Colin_Hogue

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Is your cat acting strangely? Well it might be pregnant! It is important to recognize when a cat is pregnant so that you can provide sufficient care for your cat. Here are some simple steps that you can do to assure that your female pet is pregnant.

1. Usually when pregnant, your cats nipples will begin to grow and in the same time, become soft and pink.

2. Gently run your hand across your cats abdominal area to see if you feel any sorts of swelling or small lumps

3. When a cat becomes pregnant, her demeanor may change. Most of the time, they becoming more loving and affectionate compared to when they are not pregnant.

4. Take notice of a significant weight gain in your cat. To distinguish pregnant from fat, a pregnant cat will only be fatter around the abdominal area, but a fat cat is fat all over including the neck, legs, etc.

5. Sometimes a pregnant cat may experience morning sickness, similar to female humans when they are pregnant.

6. Your pregnant cat will start eating a lot more and demanding a lot more food. But it is still important to feed it with the correct kinds of food

So you find out that your cat is really pregnant! Don't panic because now the real work begins. If you are as lost as any other cat lover out there, help is on your way.

Discover the secrets that veterinarians and cat breeders use, to keep your pregnant cat safe and healthy AND raise happy, healthy kittens which would be discussed in part II

Check out http://www.squidoo.com/pregnantcat/ for part II on Taking care of our pregnant cat.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Benjamin_Chin

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

The Persian cats are a breed all their own and the most popular cat in America. They have many special qualities and unique habits, which help to make them the most popular and beloved cat in America.

Cat owners around the world have discovered the many benefits of becoming friends to the furry feline.

Cats were probably not domesticated until approximately 5,000-8000 short years ago (this compares to 14,000 years of domestication for their canine counterparts). Cats first appeared some 35-40 million years ago according to fossil discoveries. In Egypt, cats were worshipped as goddesses. They felt the Goddess Bast controlled the heat of the sun. This was shown as a statue of a woman's body with a feline's head. The Egyptians also believed the cat was the daughter of Isis and the Goddess of the Sun and the Moon. The glow from cat's eyes held captive the light of the sun according to the Egyptians. Cats that belonged to the Egyptian pharaohs were mummified alongside them. This fact probably proved cats were held in great esteem by the Egyptians. They made carved wooden figurines, jewelry and furniture in the form of the fair feline. All these items have been found among the possessions of ancient Egyptians.

Cats were not only cherished for their extreme beauty. Humans found them to be very helpful in controlling rodent populations, which protected precious grain and food supplies. Cats proved to be an asset to almost every community in which humans settled. However, the world soon discovered not all cats are the same.

This mysterious creature comes in all shapes and sizes, colors and temperaments. Before the 1600's, the only cats appearing in Europe and the rest of the world all had short hair. You can just imagine the surprise and ultimate delight of those who came across the first luxurious longhaired cats.

It is difficult for cat historians to determine exactly when Persians first found their way into civilization. In fact, it is a general consensus among cat historians:

• We do not know the exact origins of the Persian
• We do not know how they came into existence
• We do not know where they were first developed

Persians are a mystery, and probably due mostly to people not keeping records.

Some facts historians can tell us about the Persian are:

• A man named Petro della Valle is accredited with introducing the first longhaired cats into Europe
• Della Valle brought several pairs from the land of Persia (known today as Iran) to Italy in approximately 1620
• The name "Persian" is derived from the area in which they were discovered
• For many years following the discovery of longhaired felines, Europeans referred to all longhaired cats as Persians or Angoras
• Angoras was brought to Turkey by a Frenchman named Nicholas-Claude Fabri de Peiresc
• There was a difference between these two types of cats: Persians and Angoras: the Persian cats had fuller, woollier coats and were stockier, while the Angoras from Turkey had a silkier coat of fur and a lighter frame
• Longhaired cats were the result of, or even a mutation of, cross-breeding between the furry European wild cat and the Steppe Cat, discovered by the German naturalist, Peter Simon Pallas
• The long, dense hair was necessary for these felines to protect themselves from the cold Asian environments of Persia and Angora

Source: Persian Cats by Sandra L. Toney, published by T.F.H., the world's largest and most respected publisher of pet literature

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats - For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon
It has been said that in times passed the silvers were hard to handle. This is not true today. Persian cat breeders have worked hard to eliminate behavior problems. The silvers are however, described as being different in personality from Persians of other colors. Some of those differences are:

• More active
• Lower birth weights in general
• Females leave the nest box quite early
• They mature sexually at an early age, but do not look their best until they are three to five years old
• Some of the silvers are smaller in size and lighter in bone when compared with other Persians
• They are outgoing cats with unique personalities
• They are intelligent, affectionate and people-oriented lap cats
• They are not couch potatoes as Persians have often been described
• They are sensitive and need to be socialized from an early age
• They do not like isolation and confinement
• Many have profuse coats, some have the difficult-to-groom "cotton candy" coat
• All seem to have fine textured hair that breaks easily
• They may have more sensitive skin
• It is best to start grooming early and gently

Once you see a chinchilla Persian, you may feel there is no other color as striking. The silver and golden division includes the chinchilla Persian as well as shaded silvers and goldens. The chinchilla is a glistening white feline with black or gold tipping lightly sprinkled throughout the entire coat, except for a pure white color on chest and stomach. There are both gold and silver varieties of chinchilla Persians.

The shaded variety of Persian exhibits a mantle of black on its backside with evenly shaded sides. There should be darker tipping on the legs and face than is found on the chinchilla. Golden Persians have a basic color that is a deep, warm cream with the tips of the hairs being black.

Silvers and goldens should have green or hazel eyes with a black rim encircling them as if a makeup artist had applied eye liner either a dark red or rose colored and the paw pads should be black.

Shaded and smoke division contains all Persians with tipped coats, except for those who are found in the silver and golden division. Smoke Persians that fall into this category are:

• Black
• Blue
• Cream
• Cameo (red)
• Smoke tortoiseshell
• Blue cream

A sleeping or lounging smoke Persian will appear a solid color, however, once the smoke Persian begins to move, you will see the undercoat which is a pure snow white.

Source: Persian Cats by Sandra L. Toney, published by T.F.H., the world's largest and most respected publisher of pet literature, and Cat Fancy Association Online

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon
It is probably not a good idea to introduce solids into a golden program to improve type and bone. This can cause the same problems that it does in a silver program and more problems. Problems are:

• It muddies the coat color
• Spoils the eye color
• Causes more tabby markings in a color that has not yet eliminated these markings

Silvers were being bred before 1900. The goldens were not seriously bred until the 1960s.

Color is most important in the shaded or tipped cats. The pale blue color of years ago has almost disappeared from the blue Persian. A smoke is not a smoke without the dramatic color-on-top and white-underneath coat. Silvers and goldens must have the proper tipping as well as black mascara and margins with the appropriate and distinctive nose and eye color.

A significant difference between chinchilla silvers and shaded silvers existed at one time. Today, some of the silvers are referred to as "neither/nors." They are neither chinchilla silvers nor shaded silvers. There are many more silvers registered as shaded than as chinchilla. There is seldom true shaded silver with sufficient tipping to give its lovely dark mantle. Often now if silver is not snow white, or if it has a little too much shading on the body, the Persian is registered as a shaded silver, even though it does not have enough tipping to be truly shaded. Until recently, you could tell the difference between chinchilla silver and shaded silver from across the room. This is not the case today.

The eye color in silvers and goldens has always been important. The standard in eye color for silvers and goldens is specific. The standard is:

• Green or blue-green (disqualify for incorrect eye color, which is copper, yellow, gold, amber or any color other than green or blue-green

This eye color standard is often difficult for golden and silver breeders to obtain. A silver or golden with incorrect eye color can still be valuable in a breeding program, but not in the shows ring.

Silvers have variations in the amount of tipping and a white undercoat with black tipping - one shade of white and one shade of black.

The golden standard is:

• Undercoat is to be cream and the tipping black

A cream cat with black tipping and green eyes is not a true golden. The overcoat of guard hair is ticked. Each hair shaft is banded with yellow, rust and dark brown or black. Goldens and chinchillas are also characteristic of having:

• Tabby M's on their foreheads, dark spines and dark tail tips
• It is rare to have two goldens of the same shade in the same litter
• The coat color can change until the Persian cat is five years of age or even older
• Some goldens are born with rich color
• Some take two to three years to develop a rich color
• The color of the undercoat can change with the seasons of the year to gray, muddy color at certain times of the year

There are very few goldens shown, as it is so difficult to get all things correct to the standard. Also, many goldens have been incorrectly registered and shown in the wrong color class. For example: An apricot golden has been shown as a chinchilla golden just because of its light color, not because of the appropriate amount of tipping. A darker golden color was more likely to be shown as a shaded golden just because it was dark and less attention given to the amount of tipping. Color class has been defined by the amount of tipping and not the color of the undercoat in goldens and silvers.

Many beautiful and competitive silvers were produced in the 1950s, '60s and '70s. The late 1970s brought blacks with a different look and shorter nose than some other colors. The silvers were as good as or better than the whites shown at this time. The silver breeders of the '70s were breeding selectively to improve and set type. It is unfortunate that this selective breeding further limited an already small gene pool.

Source: The Cat Fancier Association Online

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon
As longhaired cats became more and more popular in Europe, especially in England, British owners created clubs based on color. The blue longhairs were most popular in the late 1800's. Queen Victoria had a pair of colorful blue felines.

The Governing Council of the Cat Fancy was formed in England in 1910. The recommended standards of cat breeds were drafted as well. At that time, they decided the longhaired felines known as longhairs, or Persians, would be known formally as longhairs. They dropped the name Persian. The Angora cat declined in popularity. This was probably due to cat lovers preferring the Persians' fuller coat and stockier build. The Angora's coat was thinner and they had a leaner build.

People in the United States began obtaining longhaired cats in abundance from England. The Persian soon overtook the once-popular Maine Coon Cat by the 1900's.

The Cat Fancier's Association, which is the leading cat registry in the U.S. and the world, was founded in 1906. The Persian cat was also bred in different structural directions. The head shape and nose break would soon become the object of much criticism and concern. Regardless of this occurrence, the Persian was and still is one of the world's most registered and highest rated of all felines.

If you are searching for your first Persian kitten, there are many important things you need to think about, which include:

• Where to look
• What you are looking for prior to a selection

You will first need to understand that adding any kitten to your home is a commitment to care for, respect, and love this little creature for the duration of its life. This little kitty will depend upon you, its owner, for every need and want that will include:

• Food
• Recreation
• Medical check-ups
• Grooming
• Security
• Litter training
• Teaching where to and where not to scratch
• And companionship

The list above is not a complete list, but certainly at the top of your list for things a Persian kitty will definitely need. This is true of any kitten you adopt, however, adopting a Persian kitten will require more time and care than some other cat breeds. For one thing, the Persian cat generally has a long and full coat that will require daily grooming to keep it tangle-free and in good shape. You should count on Persian cat grooming on a daily basis at about 20 to 30 minutes each day. If this will be a problem for you, you might want to rethink the decision to adopt a Persian kitten.

And where to buy: Just as with puppy buying, avoid the pet shops. A purchase from a Persian cat breeder will probably yield the highest quality for you.

Source: Persian Cats by Sandra L. Toney, published by T.F.H. publications, the world's largest and most respected publisher of pet literature

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon

Friday, February 29, 2008




The Somali is a breathtaking cat to behold. It bears an uncanny resemblance to a little fox, with its large ears, masked face, full ruff and bushy tail. The Somali’s wild, feral look is what immediately draws fascinated attention.

Somalis are intelligent cats, and while active, they have soft voices and are usually quiet. They communicate with human family members through soft mews and possess a charming trill. They are extroverts and very social. Possessed with a zest for life, they love to play, solicit nuzzles and pats, and thrive on human companionship. Somalis have bursts of energy several times a day, at which time they will take off through the house, jumping into the air. They toss balls and toys in the air, fetch them back and begin the game anew. Tail and back arched, the Somali will run sideways like a monkey, and even hold objects and food the way a monkey does. Adept at opening cupboards and drawers, Somalis sometimes hide inside their secret areas. Many Somalis can manipulate faucets, and they love to play with water.

Somali
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW FAIRYTOWN DYNASTY OF LEO STAR, Ruddy Somali Male
Photo: © Satoshi Daichi

Somalis are well-proportioned, medium to large cats with firm muscular development. Their body is medium long and graceful, with a medium-length soft and silky coat that requires little grooming. The coat is usually one to three inches long, with shorter fur across the shoulders. The tail is fluffy and full; their feet have tufts between the toes. Their large, almond shaped eyes range in color from intense green to rich copper. The Somali has an agouti, or ticked, coat with four to twenty bands of color on each hair. The ticked fur mantles the cat with harmonizing solid color on its underside. They come in four recognized colors: ruddy, red, blue and fawn.

Somalis have small litters of three to four kittens, which develop slowly. They reach their full size at about eighteen months of age.

Somali
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, RW SUNFOX WILD BLUE HUCKLEBERRY, Blue Somali Male
Photo: © Chanan

Pricing on Somalis usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Somali breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Karen Talbert
Last Updated: Thursday, May 24, 2007

Thursday, February 28, 2008



This page gives advice and a few guidelines for those of you wishing to breed pedigree cats. I cover the facts, planning a litter and pregnancy and pre-natal care here. What often starts as just one litter often ends up as a lifetime passion or hobby.

The Facts
A health litter of Turkish Van Kittens breed by Tansdale cattery is the UK.

It is important to note that breeding any type of pedigree cat is a commitment that should not be taken lightly. Breeding and showing cats can be very rewarding, but it can also be very time consuming and expensive. Breeding from your cat is an important decision that must be given careful consideration.

Before starting a breeding program, it is important to become familiar with the relevant pedigree breed. Visiting cat shows and meeting other breeders is one way to start. Cat shows are a perfect place to meet other breeders and form valuable contacts for the future. It is also a place to see and assess your own cats against others of the same breed. Breeders learn from the comparison of their own cats with others and gain valuable insights into the potential strengths and weaknesses of various lines and are thus able to make informed decisions when attempting to improve their own lines.

By breeding pedigree cats, you are making a commitment to care for the welfare of every cat you breed and sell. Reputable breeders will be concerned where their cats are placed and continue to show an interest in the welfare of their kittens after they have gone to their new homes.

Planning a Litter

You should only breed from top quality cats. Breeders are continuously striving to improve the breeds and by breeding from the best cats, they are able to meet the breed standard and improve their future litters. Before visiting a breeder for a breeding queen, always check that they have suitable breeding quality kittens for you to view.

A female cat is mature from about six months and a male cat from about ten months. A female cat comes into heat in two-week cycles for two to four days. It is not advisable to breed a queen before she is at least one year old.

If you are planning to breed from your pedigree queen, you will need to find a suitable stud cat. A relevant breed club can supply you with a list of reputable breeders. You can also meet breeders at cat shows.

Pregnancy and Pre-Natal Care
Snow Bengal kittens with their mother bred by Tansdale cattery in the UK.

A queen's pregnancy can be confirmed at around three to four weeks. She will become noticeably fatter after six weeks of pregnancy. The average length of pregnancy is 65 days or about nine weeks from the date of the mating.

A pregnant queen should be fed a nourishing well-balanced diet. The number of meals can be gradually increased from about the fifth week of pregnancy. Always consult your vet is you are in any doubt about anything concerning your cat.

In the later stages of pregnancy, provide your queen with a warm and comfortable place to give birth. During the last week of pregnancy, keep a watchful eye on your queen and make sure she is accustomed to the kittening box. Most cats do not need any help with kittening. A mother cat knows instinctively what to do. Make sure your vet is available when the kittens are due just in case.

Sunday, January 27, 2008




The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: Colorpoint Shorthair
Colorpoint Shorthair
Pictured: Best of Breed GC, BW, RW TEAKATUT'S JORDAN, Seal-Lynx Point Colorpoint Shorthair Male
Photo: © Chanan

Colorpoint Shorthairs are the first cousins of the Siamese. This breed is distinguished by its elegance in sixteen different "point" colors beyond the four Siamese colors. Half-siblings to the Siamese by virtue of their foundation and continuing breeding with the Siamese, the Colorpoint Shorthair is a hybrid breed of the Siamese. Colorpoints, circa 1947-48, are a far cry from their angular, leggy descendants of today. Today's Colorpoints are the same structural standard of the Siamese, with the only difference being their unique point colors.

In the early breedings, breeders concentrated on cats with red or cream restricted to the points (face, legs, ears, tails and genitals). Early hybridizations with domestic shorthairs, and refinement by concentrating the Siamese gene with the red gene, produced the first of the colors to eventually be called Colorpoint Shorthairs. To distinguish the new breed from the Siamese, CFA breeders adopted the name Colorpoint Shorthair for registration purposes, and through a painstaking process won recognition as a breed in 1964. The early cats who helped become the new breed were given the first color class of the Colorpoints, called the solid points, which are the red and cream points.

As time progressed and the early hybrids gained popularity, the tabby versions of the Siamese were introduced into the Colorpoint Shorthair programs in the four Siamese colors. In CFA, these tabby pointed cats are called lynx points and are exhibited in their own "lynx point class" as seal-lynx points, chocolatelynx points, blue-lynx points, lilac-lynx points, red-lynx points and cream-lynx points.


Colorpoint Shorthair
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW CAPRIOLE MOMENT-OF-ZEN, Seal-Lynx Point Colorpoint Shorthair Female
Photo: © Chanan

The tortie, or parti-colors, are an interesting phenomenon of the hybridization process of the red gene. Shortened to "tortie or cream points," this color class of the Colorpoint Shorthairs are exhibited as the parti-colors. They are memorable representatives of the breed because of their loving yet independent attitudes. The parti-colors are a "by product" of the red gene and come in the four Siamese colors with random mottling or "blotching" of red and/or cream with the basic Siamese color. They often also have what is called a "blaze," a symmetrical split of the red and/or cream on one side of the face mask and the Siamese color, such as seal, on the other half. Indeed, this is a very striking appearance. Because the red color gene is sex linked, tortie or cream parti-color points only come in females. Color descriptions start with the primary Siamese color and add the mottling of red or cream. Thus we have the seal-tortie points, chocolate-tortie points, blue-cream points and lilac-cream points. When bred to a lynx parent, the last four of the sixteen colors are the tabby, or lynx, versions of the parti-color points, i.e. the seal-tortie lynx point, chocolate-tortie lynx point, blue-cream lynx point and lilac-cream lynx point.

Like their Siamese cousins, Colorpoint Shorthairs require little grooming and are especially good in households with allergies to cats since both breeds have little dander. An occasional bath is recommended, but allow the freshly bathed coat to air dry in a warm spot. Do not blow dry, but do brush the coat with the concave or short side of a small rubber brush to remove loose hair and make the coat lie smooth. The coat can be "finished" by smoothing the coat with a chamois cloth. Balanced diets high in protein are generally recommended, since part of the natural beauty of the Colorpoints is their glistening, muscular hard tubular bodies. Heed the instructions of your cat's breeder when you acquire your Colorpoint Shorthair, and you will be blessed with a long-lived joyous companion.
Colorpoint Shorthair
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC SANLINO BLAZE-OF-GLORY, Seal-Tortie Point Colorpoint Shorthair Female
Photo: © Larry Johnson

Pricing on Colorpoint Shorthairs usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National, National Breed and/or Regional winning parentage (NW, BW, RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Colorpoint Shorthair breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Bernie Hartman
Last Updated: Tuesday, July 17, 2007




The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: British Shorthair
British Shorthair
Pictured: Best of Breed GC, BW, RW DANDYBLUE'S LORD HUDSON, Blue British Shorthair Male
Photo: © Larry Johnson

The British Shorthair, probably the oldest English breed of cat, traces its ancestry back to the domestic cat of Rome. This breed was first prized for its physical strength and hunting ability, but soon became equally recognized and valued for its calm demeanor, endurance and loyalty to man.

The British Shorthair is a comparatively rare cat in the United States. Around 1980 it was recognized for championship competition by CFA stimulating much needed interest in the breed. Recognized world-wide, many fine “Brits” are still imported today from England, Ireland, New Zealand and Australia to help widen the gene pool for breeders in the United States.


British Shorthair
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW EARENDIL BLU DAZE OF GERMAN BRITS, Blue British Shorthair Male
Photo: © Justine St. Arnaud

The British Shorthair is gaining in popularity every year as it is bred and exhibited by an increasing number of enthusiastic fanciers. Because of its easy-going nature and intelligence, it has become a favorite of animal trainers, for use in Hollywood films and television commercials. The British Shorthair has a short plush coat with a luxurious feel which is very easy to groom. A British Shorthair is always in quiet control of his or her environment, supervising everyone and everything that happens in the family. A larger sized cat that prefers to be on the ground, Brits are not known for acrobatics or speed. However, they are steadfast companions to the entire family and definitely look before they leap. When gracelessness is observed, the British Shorthair is duly embarrassed; quickly recovering with a “Cheshire Cat smile.”

Although first known as the British Blue, due to the breed’s original color, its native country incorporated a wide variety of colors under the term British Shorthair in the 1950’s. CFA also now recognizes the British Shorthair in many different colors and patterns.

Pricing on British Shorthairs usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National or Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the British Shorthair breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Karen Noble
Last Updated: Friday, July 27, 2007












The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: Devon Rex
Devon Rex
Pictured: Best of Breed GC, BW, RW KARMACATZ RAZZLE DAZZLE ME!, Cameo Mackerel Tabby-White Devon Rex Female
Photo: © Larry Johnson

In 1959, a Miss Cox of Devonshire England found that a stray cat in her care had given birth to a rather odd looking curly-haired kitten, the sire thought to be a curly-haired tomcat seen in the area. Delighted with the kitten's elfin features and wavy curls, she named him Kirlee -- the founding father of the unique and wonderful breed of cats known today as the Devon Rex. Today's Devon Rex maintain a look true to their founder -- huge ears, set low on the sides of the head frame, a pixie-like face with large, inquisitive eyes and a short slightly upturned nose. A coat of loose waves and curls covers a strong and supple body in a compact, refined form. These unusual features decorate a breed whose personality, intelligence, friendliness and inquisitive behavior are as unique as the package it comes in. A young breed, the Devon Rex is carefully crossbred to American and British Shorthairs in order to enlarge and strengthen the gene pool.

Nicely "mid-sized" cats, adult Devons average six to nine pounds, with males heavier than females. While an even, full coat of loose curls is ideal for the show ring, the Devon coat varies greatly between individuals, ranging from an almost shaggy mop of loose curls in some to a thin suede-like coat in others that may leave some areas nearly bare. The coat may vary over the life of the cat, with some kittens dropping much of their coat ("molting") during their development, and some adult coats changing seasonally. Even though their body temperature is the same as other cats, many Devons are surprisingly warm to the touch due to a lighter, less insulating coat. Not surprisingly, Devons tend to be "heat seekers," and are often found lounging on televisions, computer monitors and heater vents. On chilly nights, Devons make superb bed warmers, often sneaking under the covers to stay warm and share body heat with their favorite people.


Devon Rex
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW REX-N-FX AMERICAN IDOL, Chocolate Patched Mackerel Tabby Devon Rex Female
Photo: ©

The Devon personality has been aptly described as a cross between a cat, a monkey, and "Dennis the Menace." Devons are highly active, playful and involved with everything. Powerful jumpers, very few spots large enough to hold them will not be explored and occupied. Devons have been found climbing brick fireplaces and perching on top of doors. Although little escapes a Devon's interest, Devons are very people-oriented. Most Devons invite themselves along for every activity -- preferably perched on a shoulder, lap, or wherever they can be closest to their people. They are accomplished food mooches, with "anything they aren't supposed to be into" only slightly less appealing than "anything you are eating." Many a bag of snack food left unattended for an eyeblink has suddenly sprouted two legs and a tail, with a Devon contentedly grazing inside.









Devons are low maintenance, wash-and-wear companions. Their large ears occasionally require cleaning, but otherwise a quick shampoo and towel dry (or even a wipedown with a damp cloth) and a nail-trim is all the grooming most Devons require. Despite popular myth, Devons do shed (as does anything with hair), although their unique coat may make the shed hair less obtrusive than that of many cats. Devons have also gained a dubious reputation as being "hypo-allergenic," but this varies according to an individual's personal allergies. While some people with animal allergies tolerate Devons very well, anyone with allergy issues should arrange to handle a Devon before considering acquiring one.


Devon Rex
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, RW SHIR-SHI WHITE DOVE-OF THE DESERT, Gold-Eyed White Devon Rex Female
Photo: ©

Pricing on Devon Rex usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National, National Breed and/or Regional winning parentage (NW, BW, RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life. Colors: a wide array of colors in the solid, shaded, smoke, tabby, bi-color, parti-color and pointed patterns.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Devon Rex breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Chuck Lawson
Last Updated: Thursday, May 31, 2007



The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: Chartreux
Chartreux
Pictured: Best of Breed GC, BW, NW CHARLEVAL ALITTLE LESS CONVERSATION, Chartreux Male
Photo: © Larry Johnson

The Chartreux may be one of The Cat Fanciers' Association's oldest new breeds. Chartreux history is steeped in legend, even though the breed was only advanced to championship status in 1987. There exists a lovely old legend that the Chartreux lived with, and were named for, the Carthusian monks of France, and perhaps even shared a tipple or two of their famous Chartreuse liqueur! Recent research, however, indicates that because of the woolly character of their fur, they were given the same name as a well known Spanish wool of the early 18th century. Since this method of naming is common in animal husbandry, it is very likely the truth. Nevertheless, the presence of this natural breed of cat was noted in documents as early as the 16th century, and was acknowledged for its unique coat texture and color. Whatever the reason, the Chartreux adopted France with all their native vitality and intelligence, and the country adopted the breed.

The Chartreux is a study in contrasts. Often described as a "potato on toothpicks," the Chartreux has a robust body, broad shoulders and a deep chest, all complemented by medium short, finely boned legs. The Chartreux is well muscled, which would enable the cat to meet its obligation as the fine mouser it is reputed to be in French literature. Unlike any other cat, the Chartreux's blue fur is medium in length and woolly, with the proper coat breaking at the neck, chest, and flanks. A dense undercoat gives it resistance and a feeling of sheep's wool.






Chartreux
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, DW RE DESIDERIO JOYFUL JOY, Chartreux Female
Photo: © Oliver Graf

The Chartreux is known for its smile. The rounded head with its softly contoured forehead tapers to a narrowed muzzle. This gives the Chartreux an image of smiling. The nose is straight with a slight stop at eye level. The Chartreux's eyes are one of its most endearing features. They are rounded, but not as round as the Persian's. The outer corners curve slightly upward. Color ranges from gold to copper, the latter being most preferred by breeders. The ears should be medium in height and width, set high and erect on the head. Most importantly, the Chartreux should enjoy or at least tolerate being handled for exhibition.

Chartreux quickly become attached to one family and frequently follow their masters from room to room. Known for their dog-like behavior, these cats can be taught to fetch a ball, and most will respond to their names. By tradition, all kittens born in a given year are named beginning with a specific letter of the alphabet for that particular year. Breeders use only 20 letters, omitting K, Q, W, X, Y and Z.

The Chartreux is a quiet breed, chirping rather than meowing at things it finds interesting. This intelligent cat is fascinated by television and likes to participate in telephone conversations by chewing on the cord.

Chartreux
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, RW JANVIER BEARNAISE OF JOUVENCEBLEU, Chartreux Female
Photo: © Preston Smith Photography

Chartreux kittens are precocious. Physical maturity can be three years in coming, with a scraggly stage between kitten and adulthood that puts one in mind of a gawky, adolescent youngster. Then, almost overnight, they put it all together, with stunning results. Environment and attention have everything to do with this breed's adult manners and behavior. Brushing the double coat is a no-no. Instead, running your fingers through the fur on a daily basis will suffice and will also contribute to your cat's social demeanor at the same time.

Chartreux kittens are generally available by reservation only inasmuch as the breed is zealously protected by its breeders and demand for these endearing cats outstrips availability. During World War II, some French breeders tried to save the breed from extinction by outcrossing to Persians and British Shorthairs. However, the original Chartreux cats that were imported to the United States came from the French countryside, and only those cats were used in breeding programs to produce and preserve the natural status of the present pedigreed Chartreux. This lovely breed was brought to the United States through the efforts of John and Helen Gamon who were committed to finding and acquiring the beautiful cats. Today, many American-bred Chartreux are being returned to French breeders, thus reducing even further their availability in the United States.

Pricing on Chartreux usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National, National Breed and/or Regional winning parentage (NW, BW, RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Chartreux breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Mary Ann Sweeters
Last Updated: Monday, May 14, 2007




The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: American Bobtail
American Bobtail Longhair
Pictured: Best of Breed Longhair GC, BW, NW A BEBOP TAIL YETI OF NUDAWNZ, Gold-Eyed White American Bobtail - Longhair Male
Photo: © Larry Johnson

At first glance you are sure that you have just seen a bobcat, you slowly turn and your gaze falls upon this magnificent and untamed looking creature. It captivates you. Your eyes meet and you are drawn to a far away place where hearts run wild and free. The cat cleans its luxurious fur, blinks its eyes at you and begins to purr. You long to stroke its soft, thick fur and hold him in your arms, but do you dare? Tentatively you reach for the amazing animal. He stands up and stretches, allowing you to marvel at his substantial body and his natural short tail. He is a thing of the wild, of that you are sure. The cat saunters over to you and demands attention, you cautiously pick him up and are amazed at his personality. Affectionate, intelligent and gentle, your heart has been stolen by an American Bobtail.

American Bobtail Shorthair
Pictured: Best of Breed Shorthair GC, BW SHELBIE'S AMERICAN STEEL OF NUDAWNZ, Silver Mackerel Tabby American Bobtail - Shorthair Male
Photo: © Larry Johnson






The American Bobtail is a medium-to-large, naturally occurring, bobtailed cat; a noticeably athletic animal, well muscled, with the appearance of power. The tail should be clearly visible above the back when the cat is alert and is not to exceed the hock in length. The optimum tail is articulate and nearly straight with the slightest of curves. The American Bobtail cat possesses a strong, broad modified wedge-shaped head, with a distinctive brow above large almost almond shaped eyes giving it a natural hunting gaze. Its unique coat comes in both a medium, semi-dense shorthair and a medium-length longhair that is resilient and resistant to water. When in motion, it should exhibit a natural rolling gait giving the cat with all of its combined physical characteristics the resemblance of a bobtailed wildcat. This is a slow maturing breed taking two to three years to reach full adult type.

The American Bobtail is noted for its wild look, with an exceptional disposition and adaptability.

American Bobtails are a loving, kind and incredibly intelligent cats. They are noted for their dog like personalities and their devotion to their owners. They easily adapt to a busy or quiet environment. In this breed no two tails are exactly the same. The average length of the tail is one to four inches, however this is an average, and some tails may be shorter or longer.


American Bobtails bond with their family. They get along well with most dogs and have a welcome spot in their hearts for newcomers, whether they are twolegged or four-legged. Long haul truck drivers have purchased them as cabin companions because they are known to be good travelers if introduced to it at a young age. Psychotherapists have also used them in their treatment programs because they have been found to be very well-behaved and sensitive to people in distress.

They are excellent companions for children and do not mind being carried around like a sack of potatoes. They interact well with people of all ages and serve a great purpose in the family home as a major source of entertainment due to their clown like personalities. They also offer a warm, soft shoulder to cry on when needed. They are known for their love of games and can play fetch or hide and seek for hours on end. They will often initiate a game and can be very persistent until you play with them. They are basically quiet cats in voice, however they do trill, chirp and click when delighted. They are easily leash-trained and love to go for walks. Not technically thieves, the American Bobtail’s love of shiny objects makes it necessary to keep jewelry boxes closed and even locked.

The American Bobtail is one of the most recent breeds to be accepted for registration by the Cat Fanciers’ Association. February 2000 marks this recognition and confirms what breeders have known for many years, that the American Bobtail has its place in the world of pedigreed cats. The American Bobtail advanced to Championship status effective May 1, 2006. It is one of America’s own, a breed to be proud of. Its wildcat look combined with its full domesticity and pleasing personality is a credit to all the breeders who have devoted the time, effort and energy into shaping this remarkable breed. The American Bobtail can proudly claim the title “Born in the USA.”

American Bobtail
Pictured: Second Best of Breed Shorthair NUDAWNZ I'LL BE YOUR#1WITHA BULLET, Silver Tabby American Bobtail - Shorthair Division Male
Photo: ©

American Bobtail
Pictured: Third Best of Breed Shorthair CH ATTITUDEACRE MURONY, Choc-Silver Spotted Tabby American Bobtail - Shorthair Male
Photo: © Chanan

Pricing on American Bobtails usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National, National Breed and/or Regional winning parentage (NW, BW, RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the American Bobtail breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Kathryn Sylvia
Last Updated: Saturday, June 30, 2007






The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: Cornish Rex
Cornish Rex
Pictured: Best of Breed GC, BW, RW ANGELWAVES KYNG ARTHUR OF WHITEWEB, Black-White Cornish Rex Male
Photo: © Larry Johnson

“Are those cats from outer space?!” No, Cornish Rex cats are not from outer space and, in spite of their resemblance to ancient Egyptian statues, they are not from Egypt either. As their name implies, these cats originated in Cornwall, England, where they first appeared in a litter of barn cats born about 1950.

In appearance, Cornish Rex cats are a study in curves starting most noticeably with their coat which ideally falls in washboard waves. The coat is very short, lies close to the body and is incredibly soft to the touch, prompting comparisons to cut velvet, karakul lamb, rabbit fur or silk. In fact, it feels like a Cornish Rex coat and nothing else is the same. There is even variation among individuals within the breed.

In addition to the coat, this breed has a distinct head and body type. Large ears are set high on a comparatively small, egg-shaped head with high cheekbones, hollow cheeks, and a high-bridged Roman nose and strong chin. The body has been compared to a Whippet dog’s because of its arched back, barrel chest, small waist and very long, fine legs. In spite of their dainty appearance, these small to medium sized cats are extremely hard-bodied and muscular, using their well developed hips and long legs for fast starts and stops, quick turns and high jumps.


Cornish Rex
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW BOSKA INFINITE JEST, Tortie-White Cornish Rex Female
Photo: © Chanan

In personality, the Cornish Rex is extremely affectionate and people-oriented. They are also active cats whose kitten-like antics last for their lifetime and who can be very inventive in their play. Favorite Cornish Rex games are fetch, catch and even “discus,” in which the cat uses its hand-like paw to pick up and toss a small object. In spite of their sophisticated, elegant appearance, Cornish Rex cats are anything but cool, aloof or dignified. They are perfect pets for the owner who wants active cats to participate in family life.

Because of their extremely short, fine textured coat, many people have the impression that the Cornish Rex does not shed and is hypoallergenic. This is not strictly true. All animals are constantly renewing their coats as old hairs are replaced by new ones. While Cornish Rex hairs are not easy to find lying on the furniture, they are there and owners will find them in the dryer filter and clinging to some fabrics. Certainly, by comparison to some other cats, the shedding is minimal. Even so, most allergic people are bothered by the dander (dead skin cells) and the saliva, both of which are present in Cornish Rex cats. Policies concerning allergy sales vary from breeder to breeder and potential buyers should realize each breeder does what he or she feels is in the cats’ best interest.


Cornish Rex
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, GP, RW MAKIN'WAVES AMASA OF TENDER CLAWS, Tortie-White Cornish Rex Female
Photo: © Chanan

Pricing on Cornish Rex depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National or Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Cornish Rex breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Catherine Ash
Last Updated: Thursday, May 31, 2007





The following information is from the Cat Fancier's Association page on breeds. Text and pictures are copyrighted by the CFA. Layout and font may have changed to fit this page. Images (cat pictures) are copyrighted by the photographer. Please go to the CFA website for details. Enjoy the cats!

Breed Profile: Burmese
Burmese
Pictured: Best of Breed - Sable Division GC, BW, RW MARCH HARE K SHIDO, Sable Burmese Male
Photo: © Satoshi Daichi

In the early 1930’s, Dr. Joseph Thompson of San Francisco acquired an attractive walnut-brown female from Burma which he named Wong Mau. Through selective breeding to Siamese, it was established that the Burmese is a distinct breed. Lighter colored kittens were occasionally produced and eventually the American breeders requested recognition from CFA for these “dilute” colors; first, as another breed named Malayan, then later as a dilute division of Burmese. The four colors recognized by CFA are: sable, champagne, blue and platinum.

Burmese carry surprising weight for their size and have often been described as “bricks wrapped in silk.” Their coats are very short, satin-like in texture, and generally require little grooming other than daily petting. There is a range in Burmese head and body type; the more compact cats with the rounder heads are seen in the show ring. Burmese have large, expressive eyes that are great pools of innocence and seductive appeal, irresistible in effect. These eyes are their most persuasive weapon in an arsenal of endearing traits that mask an awesome power to hypnotize their owners into life-time love affairs through which they effortlessly rule their families.


Burmese
Pictured: Best of Breed - Dilute Division GC, BW SARMICEL'S WALTER PAYTON, Champagne Burmese Male
Photo: © Justine St. Arnaud


As kittens, Burmese are quite lively. They often seem clumsy when they attempt feats beyond their capabilities and land on their rears with solid little thumps. They will be playful well into adulthood. As Burmese grow, their high intelligence emerges and their own individual personalities start to unfold. They mature into charming, resolute executives who move in and take over a household, running it efficiently with those big eyes and a velvet paw. If encouraged, many Burmese converse with their humans, using soft, sweet voices (they are neither loud nor raucous). They are good with children, will tolerate the family dog, and if introduced to it at an early age as something pleasant, most will enjoy traveling in a car.

Burmese are extremely people-oriented; their personalities are almost dog-like in a tendency to shadow their owners and in a desire to give and receive affection. Many Burmese have delighted their “humans” by learning to retrieve. They love warm laps and caressing hands and enjoy cuddling up in bed either under the covers or on top of their favorite persons. They delight in helping to manage the house. Some of their favorite chores are assisting with paper work or reading (by sitting on top of the material), or going into cupboards (to demonstrate where things ought to be). Typically, Burmese are always with people. The females tend to request center stage and take an active role in ruling the household. The males prefer to supervise from the lap position, are more laid back and less opinionated. If emotionally slighted by their owner’s obtuseness, Burmese may sulk, but, fortunately, not for long. Burmese often convert the most anti-cat person into a Burmese enthusiast. Be forewarned! They can be addictive, and like potato chips, you may find you cannot have just one. Many people find the complete Burmese experience is to have one of each sex or perhaps two (or more) colors.


Burmese
Pictured: Second Best of Breed - Sable Division GC CARICATURE'S KARISHMA, Sable Burmese - Sable Division Female
Photo: © Chanan

Burmese - Dilute
Pictured: Second Best of Breed - Dilute Division GC VINDOURO'S PACHELBELL OF RINGAPURR, Champagne Burmese Male
Photo: © Chanan

Burmese should never be let outdoors as they are entirely too trusting and have little, if any, survival instinct. Their idea of survival is to turn their soulful eyes on you to attend to all their needs. This does not work for catching food, fighting off enemies or avoiding cars.

A Burmese should be purchased only from a reputable breeder; avoid pet shops. It is advisable to visit the breeder’s home to observe the conditions in which the litter is being raised. While breeders differ in their methods, the environment should be clean and relatively odorless. The kittens should be energetic, curious, and easily handled. They should also appear healthy, as should all the cats in the breeder’s home. Check for clear eyes and noses, clean ears and healthy-looking coats. A breeder should guarantee the health of the kitten or cat for a reasonable length of time, provide registration papers (often after the kitten has been altered), discuss care, and be available to answer questions.
Burmese
Pictured: Third Best of Breed - Sable Division GC MAIKIKI SHENANDOAH OF ACROCATS, Sable Burmese - Sable Division Male
Photo: © Chanan

Burmese - Dilute
Pictured: Third Best of Breed - Dilute Division GC NIGHTSONG'S AMBER DAWN, Champagne Burmese - Dilute Division Female
Photo: © Jim Brown

Pricing on Burmese usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National or Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Burmese breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Judith Kollman and Patricia Swihart
Last Updated: Tuesday, May 29, 2007