Funny Cats Pictures - Pictures of Funny Cats

Cat Pictures - Huge Cat Ears

2010-11-30T02:32:00.001-08:00

Cat Pictures - Huge Cat Ears

Cat Pictures - Cats House

2010-11-30T02:29:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Cats House

Cat Pictures - Hiding Out Under Here

2010-11-30T02:27:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Hiding Out Under Here

Cat Pictures - I See You

2010-11-30T02:25:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - I See You

Cat Pictures - Nom Nom Nom I Love Cats

2010-11-30T02:22:00.001-08:00

Cat Pictures - Nom Nom Nom I Love Cats

Cat Pictures - Laptop Bed

2010-11-30T02:20:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Laptop Bed

Cat Pictures - Coming Through

2010-11-30T02:17:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Coming Through

Cat Pictures - Kitten Attack

2010-11-30T02:15:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Kitten Attack

Cat Pictures - Do You Likes My Mustache

2010-11-30T02:13:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Do You Likes My Mustache

Cat Pictures - Keeping Baby Warm

2010-11-30T02:11:00.000-08:00

Cat Pictures - Keeping Baby Warm

Beastie Band for sale

2009-02-26T06:27:00.000-08:00

Soft safety neoprene cat collars in many designs and colors. One size cut to fit.

Buy this cat

I Love Cats 3 years / 18 issues

2009-02-26T06:25:00.000-08:00

I Love Cats is a digest size magazine with articles on health, care, habits and feeding as well as human interest stories about people and their cats. It provides information to help cat owners let their cats live healthier and happier lives. Articles feature reports on proper nutrition, veterinarian advice, dental care, book reviews and stories about cats and cat lovers.

Subscribe this magazines

I Love Cats 1 year / 6 issues

2009-02-26T06:23:00.000-08:00

Rencana Mau Jualan Ikan Kalengan di Internet

2008-11-22T21:55:00.000-08:00

Kemarin ngobrol-ngobrol dengan teman kerja, awal ngobrol masalah komputer, merembet ke internet, terus lama-lama ngobrol ke masalah internet marketing. kendala saya pengin menekuni dunia marketing di internet adalah tidak adanya barang yang mau dijual di internet. mau jualan ebook sepertinya sudah banyak orang yang menekuninya. akhirnya nggak dinyana teman saya menanyakan ke saya bahwa kakaknya punya usaha di dunia yang nyata bergerak di pengalengan ikan. wah tantangan nih! langsung saja saya mengiyakan, nanti komisinya bagaimana pak? saya balas tanya ke teman saya. gampang nanti, prinsipnya pertama turut membantu pemasarannya, yang kedua baru pikir komisinya katanya. ya sudah! nggak masalah saya menanyakan balik ke teman saya itu, apakah nantinya kalau ada order banyak, kakak anda siap menyetoki banyak juga. jawabnya dengan lirih siap! langsung saja bikin konsep marketing di blog. semoga langkah awal ini menjadi permulaan yang bagus untuk pengalaman saya dan awal karir saya di internet marketing yang menggunakan produk sendiri atau dalam negeri, setelah gagal internet marketing di Amazon. sekarang mau konsentrasi di bisnis produk sendiri saja!

Why Cats Have Hairballs And The Care Needed To Eliminate Or Reduce Them

2008-10-12T18:24:00.000-07:00

By Jay Grey

Cats are notorious for being clean. To achieve their high need to be clean they spend a large part of their everyday life grooming themselves. Grooming is done by licking its fur with a course brush. In this case the brush is their tongue.

A cat's tongue is a rough surface which is comprised of many small bumps that are similar to barbs. The barbs are called papillae that are made of keratin. Keratin is the same material that human fingernails are made of. The barbs are arranged on the tongue and lean backs toward the back of the throat. When your cat rakes its tongue against its fur these barbs are raised and form many backward type hooks. While these hooks are beneficial in combing through the fur it also catches lose hairs which are then swallowed.

Some of this fur is passed through to the intestinal track but most of it can not be ingested by the cat. The main reason cats can not readily pass the fur is because of a lack of fiber in their diet. Cats that suffer from a fiber deficiency will have an accumulation of hair in the back of their throat or stomach. The only recourse a cat has is to expel the hairball by throwing it up. These hairball episodes are preceded with gagging and retching.

The elimination of a hairball should be expected from time to time but if it is a regular occurrence it could be a cause for concern. Cats that have many bouts with hairballs can develop a loss of appetite and become constipated.

Your first course of action should be to cut down on the amount of hair ingested by your kitty. Brushing your cat will remove excessive hair. Short hair cats require 2 to 3 times of grooming per week while daily brushing might be advantageous for a long haired cat.

Increase the amount of fiber your cat receives. There are commercial products as well as natural remedies that can be tried. Specialized cat food and treats are available with the intent of reducing hairball build up. Some owners supplement their cat's food with canned pumpkin. Grass is another form of fiber that can be tried. The grass comes in a variety of types ranging from wheat, rye, and oat. These grasses can be purchased at pet stores. Please do not use lawn grass that has been chemically treated as this can be dangerous to your pet's health.

If your cat is frequently expelling hairballs and is exhibiting a lack of appetite you should consider consulting with your veterinarian. They will be able to determine if you cat is plagued by an under lying illness which needs to be addressed.

The elimination of hairballs may be reduced greatly with a little help from you. It is well worth a try and it will most certainly be a relief to you and your cat.

Jay Grey has owned and cared for his own pet cats for years. He is also owns and runs Cat Care Zone at http://catcarezone.com
For a free mini-course about cats delivered directly to your email box visit:
http://catcarezone.com/newsletter-home.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jay_Grey

Cat Dental Care Secrets - What You Need to Know

2008-10-12T18:23:00.000-07:00

By Thomas Kellerman

Taking care of teeth isn't just something that applies to humans. If our cats don't get the right care, they can also suffer from dental problems. Fortunately, it's not too hard to give your cat proper dental care. All you need is a few minutes every once in a while. Here's how to provide the right cat dental care.

Many dental problems in cats are caused by the same thing that humans suffer from - plaque. It forms on teeth between brushing, and is made up of saliva, bacteria, and food particles. It starts out soft, but quickly hardens, becoming tartar. This brown substance is pretty unsightly, but it's not just unattractive. When more forms, it can push up under your cat's gums. That causes infections and lost teeth.

Prevention, as always, is the best medicine. If you avoid the formation of tartar, your cat's teeth will be in a much better shape. Many cats will even put up with regular brushing. Start when your cat is young, and don't bring out the toothbrush to start. Stroke the outside of your cat's cheeks with a finger, until he or she gets used to the feeling. Once this stops being a problem, you can put a dab of cat toothpaste on your finger and allow the cat to taste it. Popular flavors include meat and poultry.

After the toothpaste and the stroking motion have been accepted, you can put a little toothpaste onto a toothbrush intended for cats. Slowly and carefully, brush one or two teeth, to get your cat used to brushing. Over the next few days, you can increase the number of teeth you brush at a time, waiting till your cat becomes willing to allow you to do so before proceeding to the rear teeth. These are the most important to brush, but stop brushing before your cat starts fussing. It's important for your pet not to dislike tooth brushing. Eventually, you'll be able to brush for about thirty seconds on each side of the mouth. You don't have to worry about the inside surfaces of the teeth, which are harder to get.

In addition to brushing (if your cat will tolerate it), you should feed a diet that requires a great deal of chewing. Too much moist food can accelerate plaque and tartar buildup. Dental chews will also help clean your pet's teeth. You can feed one or two a day to help with your cat's dental care. Basic cat care is essential for a happy and healthy cat.

Thomas Kellerman is a fellow cat lover and trainer. To find out more about cat dental care or Cat Care Secrets. Please visit the site below: http://www.OurCatSecrets.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thomas_Kellerman

Does Gourmet Cat Food Really Taste Better?

2008-10-12T18:22:00.000-07:00

By Derek Rogers

In recent years, there has been a serious surge in the production of so called "premium" or "gourmet" cat food, and people are beginning to wonder if these more expensive brands on the market are actually worth all the hype, and of course the money. These gourmet brands are meant to taste more lavish than the traditional products found in the average supermarket. Gourmet cat food sales are increasing at a very fast rate in an industry that is consistently evolving to produce higher quality products. The question that pet owners need to ask is whether the additional cost of these luxury products is really worth it?

One of the primary reasons why there is such an increase in demand for these products is because consumers are looking for products that are closer to the quality of home prepared foods. Current research is supporting that inferior ingredients in cat food can be detrimental to the health of the cat more and more people are looking for healthier alternatives. Many gourmet brands are touting the ability to provide high quality, natural cat food products based on ingredients that are more wholesome than traditional commercially prepared foods.

Every year we seem to see an increase in cat disease, obesity and other serious issues which can now be rectified to a degree by the healthfulness of gourmet cat food products. Most so-called gourmet products come in smaller packages which tend to discourage over feeding in order to fight obesity. These small packages are attractive both to consumers who are looking for dietary management, and for those who are looking for convenience when feeding their pets.

Many pet food brands, like Purina for example, offer a variety of different types of gourmet cat food these include "Fancy Feast" and "Gourmet Gold" for example. These brands claim to be restaurant quality, and come in a variety of different types and choices. The obvious benefit to the manufacturer is that they can demand a higher price for these luxury products. This is by putting increased care into the design, presentation and manufacturing of the food the company can fetch increased profits. Because consumers know the products are of a higher quality, they are generally willing to pay more.

There seems to be an implied understanding that the higher price means the higher quality when it comes to food products. This is not completely true, because gourmet cat food is not always offering a healthy balanced diet. The more common, discount brands can still create a balanced and healthy diet when mixed with the right ingredients. Cat owners should not assume that the gourmet brands are necessarily better.

Instead, they should consult their veterinarian to appraise which brand and food is ideal for each individual cat's needs. This is the most ideal way to determine which type will best suit your cat's requirements nutritionally. While improved taste may be the greatest feature of many of these products, gourmet cat food does not necessarily mean it contains improved nutrition.

Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For advice on pet food, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK's leading suppliers of cat supplies.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Derek_Rogers

Signs That Your Cat Has Ear Mites

2008-10-12T18:21:00.000-07:00

By Rona Limsy

Can you sense if your cat has ear mites? If you can spot the signs in its early stages, regardless of how minor an ailment it may be, then the chances of limiting any kind of long-term damage is increased greatly. This is very true of cat ear mites.

If your cat does pick up this irritable infection, the signs can be quite clear. Ear mites will most certainly cause your cat to shake its head quite often. As well as the usual more frequent scratching of the infected ear, you should also look for any blood or discharge coming from the ear. Since an infected area will tear due to constant scratching, there may also be a putrid smell. If your cat displays some of these signs, you can be fairly sure it has ear mites.

There are a variety of causes for cat ear mites. These include common bacteria, through to yeast infections and parasitical mites attaching themselves to your cat's ear. Since they are attracted to wax, it is critical that keeping your cat's ear clean is top on your list. If a cat is infected, there can be serious long term effects if a mite is left untreated, for example rupturing of the blood vessels around the ear, and disfigurement.

Thankfully, your cat has a wide range of treatments available, both traditional and alternative. Should you follow the traditional treatment, the first thing that will normally happen is for a vet to wash your cat's ears via a method called flushing. This needs to be carried out by your vet, since there is the possibility you may harm your cat if not done properly.

After this process, your vet will place your cat on a treatment of drugs or antibiotics. As in treatments that are used against fleas, these courses may last up to 4 weeks, to ensure that both the original ear mites and any eggs that have been laid are destroyed. If the infection has spread, which commonly happens, then a specialist flea cure such as shampoo or powder must be used.

However, there are also less traditional methods of dealing with cat ear mites. Since antibiotics can actually decrease a cat's immunity to certain ailments, they can be less beneficial ultimately. A natural alternative to antibiotics is Ear Dr., from PetAlive. This is a mixture of both natural and herbal treatments, and contains olive oil and tea tree oil, both of which has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial agents in it. Since they are natural products, the cat benefits from effective treatment and a greatly reduced possibility of future infections.

Although cat ear mites are extremely irritating for the pet involved, by looking out for and recognizing the signs, and keeping your cat's ears clean, you can deal with this problem quickly and minimize the pain to your cat.

To get more recommendations for cat ear mite treatments, visit http://www.My-Pet-Cat.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rona_Limsy

Complete Cat Training - Is Your Cat Not Using The Litter Box

2008-10-12T18:20:00.000-07:00

By N L Macdonald

Cat training is more about learning why your cat does what he does. Did you know that cats require privacy when going the bathroom? If you have a litter box kept in a very commonly used area, he probably won't use it. But your carpet or somewhere else in the house may be used instead! Cats in general want a quiet, secluded area, away from family members and other animals. The importance of your cat toileting regularly cannot be over-emphasized.

Sometimes owners do not provide their cats with private & clean litter boxes, plenty of water or the ability to go outside. This can quickly lead to urinary tract disease which is very common in cats and often very debilitating. In this disease, large crystals form in your cat’s bladder, which can then flow through your cat’s urethra (the tube linking the bladder to the outside world) and they often become lodged and stuck! This obstruction of pee then causes a cat to become very ill and very sore. Then a visit to a veterinarian is required.

The key to preventing this problem is to encourage your cat to drink more which will make him go more! This helps prevent the formation of the crystals in the bladder in the first place! Ensure that you have a couple of full water bowls for your cat around the house as well as outside. Your cat should always have an unlimited supply of water.

Part of your cat training, having your cat go in his litter box, requires privacy and security so that he'll feel secure. In general, there should be more than one litter box in your household. In fact, the generally accepted formula for the best number of litter boxes for your household is, one per cat you own, plus one. So, if you have 2 cats, you should have 3 litter boxes around the house, while if you only have one cat, have 2 litter boxes – and so on.

Just as important is that you use a good absorb able litter that your cat likes and that you regularly replace this litter once every 2 – 3 days (rather than once a week!). The cleaner the litter, the more your cat will want go in it and the easier time you'll have training your cat. When placing the litter boxes around the house, make sure you don’t leave a litter tray in a corner, or anywhere where your cat may feel trapped.

The key to avoiding your cat developing urinary tract problems and having problems training your cat, is to make sure the experience as stress free for your cat as possible. By providing unlimited water, allowing some outdoors access and maintaining clean litter boxes in private areas of your house you will be providing your cat with an environment where he'll want to go in the litter box.

Nancy Macdonald is an online researcher who specializes in finding information to make homelife just a little bit better. For more information on cat training please see http://www.cattrainingreview.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=N_L_Macdonald

Living With FIV (Feline Aids)

2008-10-12T18:19:00.000-07:00

By Kate Garvey

Four years ago I was living in a community with a high rate of unwanted animals. During the summer, the city shelter was forced to euthanize 14 to 17 thousand animals each month. Feral cats and cats that had Feline Aides (FIV) were euthanized immediately. At the time I did not have knowledge or experience with feral cat trap and release programs. I was sharing my house with six healthy cats when I met Scruffy, a sweet, adorable, athletic feral cat, that tested positive for FIV.

I tried to find a home for Scruffy where he would be the only cat in the household, but no one was interested in adopting him. After that my choices were limited, I could have Scruffy euthanized, I could have him neutered and leave him as an outdoor cat knowing he might infect other cats, or I could merge him with my healthy cats (I had four other rescued cats at the time). There was and still seems to be an ongoing debate about how cats contract FIV. Some veterinarians believe FIV can be passed by mutual grooming, and eating out of a food dish. Others believe FIV can only be passed through blood; a bite or during gestation from a mother to her offspring. All my research led me to believe that FIV cats can lead a reasonably normal life, provided they have good nutrition, and a safe, comfortable indoor environment. Dr. Mike Richards says, "Feline immune deficiency virus infection does not lead to acquired immunodeficiency syndrome in cats as often as human immunodeficiency virus leads to AIDS in people." The largest threat to FIV-positive cats is secondary infections, such as bladder, skin, and upper respiratory infections. Kidney failure is also frequent in cats with FIV. So keeping all this in mind, I made a decision to neuter scruffy and merge him with my other cats. My deepest fear was that I would expose my other cats to FIV. The vaccine for FIV had just been placed on the market, but it was controversial so I choose not to vaccinate the healthy cats.

Four years later, Scruffy is still a sweet, adorable, athletic cat with FIV. My other cats are all healthy and still test negative for FIV. Maybe I was lucky, or maybe this is proof that the disease is not transferred through mutual grooming. It’s estimated about 12% of cats in the United States have FIV. Many never develop symptoms of the illness. I think part of the reason that Scruffy and my other cats remain healthy is that my house is a good place for animals; routine bedtimes, good quality food, constant accessibility to clean water, and a lack of external stress—my house is quiet and peaceful most of the time. If you adopt a cat with FIV, plan on keeping it indoors. Also, find out how far the disease has progressed. A cat with FIV exposure is far different from a cat with high FIV symptoms, or secondary symptoms of the illness. Many FIV exposed cats can live a relatively normal life provided they are in indoor pet, and receive good pet care.

For more free pet care or animal welfare tips, visit http://www.PetCareRCA.com Kate Garvery is the founder and director of the Pet Care Resource Center of America. She is also a freelance writer and provides professional writing services for individuals and business owners http://www.kategarvey.net Kate is the author of 3 non-fiction books and more than 40 non-fiction articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kate_Garvey

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus - Everything You Need to Know

2008-08-13T18:52:00.000-07:00

By D Swain

As its name suggests, the feline immunodeficiency virus attacks your cat's immune system. It eventually disables the immune system's ability to battle cancers and infections. The feline immunodeficiency virus is usually targets roaming cats. It can also affect larger felines such as tigers, lions and leopards.

Transmission

The feline immunodeficiency virus is shed in saliva. Therefore, it can easily be transmitted to your cat if he is bitten by an infected cat. The virus is rarely transmitted through the mother's milk. However, transmission can occur if the mother is infected with the virus during lactation or gestation.

Symptoms

The feline immunodeficiency virus causes a variety of early symptoms such as swollen lymph nodes, lethargy, and weight loss. Many cats also suffer from chronic oral infections. The feline immunodeficiency virus can also cause upper respiratory problems in the form of nasal discharge and sneezing.

Diagnosis

The feline immunodeficiency virus can be detected by testing for antibodies against the disease. The test may take up to 12 weeks before it is able to detect these antibodies. The results are available quickly, usually taking no more than 20 minutes. However, the main test to detect the feline immunodeficiency virus can sometimes render false positives. Therefore, if there is a positive result, it's usually best to confirm the diagnosis with a Western blot assay.

Treatment

Unfortunately, there is no cure for the feline immunodeficiency virus. The main cause of death for cats affected with this virus is from secondary infections. Therefore, you will need to eliminate stress and exposure to other animals so that your cat doesn't get sick. Antibiotics can also be used for the secondary infections. You should also make sure your cat has plenty of fluids and follows a good diet.

Prognosis

The amount of time a cat affected by the feline immunodeficiency virus has left varies widely. Most cats can live for many more years after diagnosis without showing any symptoms. However, a cat diagnosed in an advanced stage of the disease will usually have less than a year remaining.

As a cat owner, you want to keep your special friend as healthy as possible. To learn more about various cat illnesses such as the feline herpes virus, stop by cat-illnesses.com. Your cat will thank you for it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=D_Swain

Cat Trees - The Perfect Way For Your Cat to Get Rid of Its Excess Energy

2008-08-13T18:50:00.000-07:00

By Jennifer Akre

Click, click, click. Click, click, click. This is all you hear when your cat is running up and down the hallway in your home. It's starting to get on your nerves and on top of all the clicking, he's jumping and starting to tear apart your furniture. Now stop and think before you get angry, he's a cat right, and he likes to run jump and play. So, to keep your stress level down and his energy level down, he needs a place to play and instead of your furniture, just turn to cat trees to solve the problem.

Cat trees are great fixtures that offer your cat one fantastic place to just let go. How so? It is because of their design, like the name dictates, it looks like a natural thing that you would find outside and has the same type of shape of a tree with a center cylinder that has limbs sticking out of it. One will generally be crafted out of some sort of wood and then will be covered in a sturdy fabric so it won't break down when your cat is clawing and jumping on it.

If you feel like kind of going over the top with your cat's play area, then not only are cat trees a great option, but you could even invest in a kitty gym. It features the same basic concept of the other one, but it is more of a grand scale piece because it can also have perches and toys built right into it plus ramps, archways, and juxtaposing limbs.

Along with cat trees and kitty gyms, there are also a lot of other cat furniture selections that you could treat your cat to. For instance, if your short on space, but still want your gat to get rid of its aggression, then you can get a scratching post that has sisal rope. Or, if your cat likes to sleep on your bed and you don't feel like sharing anymore, then you can get him a cat bed. These are just a few options too and some of the others include cat perches, cat towers, and cat steps.

Interested in purchasing cat trees or any of the other cat products for your kitty? If so, a great way to check out all the choices is online. That's right, you can do your comparison shopping right at the comfort of your computer and when you come across something you like, you have a way better chance at finding it at a pretty reasonable price compared to what is in the pet store. What you buy will also be sent right to you, which saves you both time and money since you never have to step foot outside your home to get it.

When it comes down to it, if your cat is running wild in your home, you can give him, or her, a great place to take out his or her aggression with cat trees. Get yours today so you can avoid buying new furniture tomorrow.

Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shops that offer both items and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it's your living, bedroom, or even your deck or patio, there are many tips you can use to make those spots both functional and beautiful for your pet. Today, she offers advice on how to create a fabulous spot for your cat using comfy cat furniture, sturdy cat houses, and fun cat trees.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre

Cat Facts - Basic, Fun, Facts About Your Pet

2008-07-31T19:26:00.000-07:00

By Kate Garvey

Cats are amazing creatures; majestic, comical, ever changing, and diverse. Because of their agility, athleticism, and equipment--claws and teeth, they are considered to be perfect killing machines. Equally true, they are gentle companions who share our lives and household. They love to sit on our laps and be with us but don’t respond to training like a dog. I’ve shared my life with cats since childhood. Here are a few basic facts for anyone interested in this amazing species.

The first thing you’ll notice is that cats sleep a lot. They average 16 hours of sleep per day. When their up, they usually like to play, eat or groom. The amount of daily sleep can vary by cat, circumstance and breed. There are approximately 25-40 known breeds of cats. The largest is a Maine Coon which often weighs in excess of 20 LBs. Other cat breeds average 7-10 LB’s. The lifespan of a cat varies depending on its breed and environment. Outdoor un-neutered male cats have a lifespan of just 4 years regardless of their breed. This is because many of them are hit by cars or infected with terminal illnesses. Indoor cats live much longer than outdoor cats due to lower stress, and lower exposure to disease. The Maine Coon has a short lifespan of approximately 8-10 years, whereas a Siamese often lives up to 20 years. Mixed breed cats typically live 12-18 years, but I’ve had mixed breeds live up to 24 years.

According to pet trainers, cats can be trained, but always keep in mind, the cat will only do what serves the cat’s best interest. The best way to train a cat is by using food when the cat is hungry. Repeat the trick over and over and give a “treat” each time.

The body of a cat is amazing. The eyes are designed to detect the slightest movement. They see well in the dark. Their ears move so they can pick up the faintest sound—this explains why cats hate loud noises and unfamiliar sounds. The spine of a cat is incredibly dexterous, containing approximately 60 vertebrae compared to a humane spine which has approximately 24 vertebras. The tail can reflect a cat’s mood, and is also used for balance. Most cats enjoy when we run our hand down their back and give a slight gentle tug on the tail, near the base of the tail. It gives the cat a little back stretch. The claws are retractable for ease of walking on any surface and extend to climb trees or catch prey. Cats are carnivores and should always eat a high protein diet. They are amazingly resourceful and prolific. A single mother and her first year offspring can produce in excess of 150 cats by the third year. This is why all cats need to be spayed and neutered before sexual maturity (approximately 6 months).

Centuries ago, humans and cats started sharing their environment. We don’t know when this occurred, but most likely our ancestors valued cats for their ability to reduce rodent populations. During the Egyptian era, cats were revered. During the dark ages they were persecuted and wrongfully blamed for the black plague. Today approximately 30 percent of all households share their lives with cats. It’s easy to understand why they are the most popular pet.

For more free pet care or animal welfare tips, visit http://www.PetCareRCA.com Kate Garvery is the founder and director of the Pet Care Resource Center of America. She is also a freelance writer and provides professional writing services for individuals and business owners http://www.kategarvey.net Kate is the author of 3 non-fiction books and more than 40 non-fiction articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kate_Garvey

10 Kitten Litter Box Training Tips

2008-07-02T19:14:00.000-07:00

By Jovan Johnson

Wonderful you have a new kitten! Now its time for your kittens litter box training and believe me you and her will be really happy once she's trained. Rest assured litter box training is going to be really easy for you and your kitten I promise. Most kittens naturally feel the urge to dig in litter as early as 4 weeks, but here our some 10 tips that will make litter box training for cats much easier....

Tip 1: Do not interfere with your kitten while she in the litter box, it will only make your cat develop an aversion to using it.

Tip 2: Be patient! Instinct will guide your kitten to the litter box.

Tip 3: Make sure you place the litter box in a quiet, non traffic location that your cat has access to at all times.

Tip 4: Make sure you always keep their litter box clean. Scoop daily

Tip 5: Don't let litter sit for more than a week. Change the litter as often as possible and you and your cat will be happy

Tip 6: Do not use any strong cleaners in the litter box; it may make your kitten not want to go potty

Tip 7: Place your kitten in their litter box when they awake and after a meal

Tip 8: When your kitten start to go potty on their own, praise her lavishly to reinforce the fact that she doing a good job

Tip 9: Do not, I mean do not move your kittens litter box unless absolutely necessary and when doing so move it gradually.

Tip 10: Last but not least, if you have more than one kitten, make sure you have a litter box for each cat.

More cat owner tips

WAIT! Don't put your cat up for adoption just yet. A well crafted training plain is all you need to a well behaved cat. FIND OUT HOW - click here

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Homemade Cat Treat Recipes

2008-07-02T19:13:00.000-07:00

By Jovan Johnson

All cat food is not good for cats and the best way to make sure what is going in your cat's mouth is good is to make homemade cat treats. Here are a couple of home made cat food recipes my cats love and I am sure you will find them really easy to cook as well.

Cat tuna cookies

Ingredients:

1 8 oz. can tuna (in oil), 2 cups cornmeal, 2 cups flour, 3/4 cup water, 2/3 cup vegetable. oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt

Cooking instructions:

Mix all ingredients well, kneading just to combine. On a floured surface roll out dough to 1/4 inch thickness. Cut out into little squares or any shape. Put the cookies on greased baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for 25-30 minutes. Cool on wire rack and enjoy!

Cat Go Fishes

Ingredients

1 envelope ( 2 1/4 teaspoons) dry active yeast ,1/4 cup warm water (110 to 115 degrees) ,1 cup warm chicken or fish stock ,2 tablespoons molasses ,2 cups all purpose flour ( approx.) ,1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour ,1 cup cracked wheat ,1/2 cup cornmeal,1/2 cup dry milk powder,1/3 cup fish food flakes, 1 teaspoon salt ,1 large egg,1 tablespoon milk

Cooking instructions:

Combine the yeast and with warm water. Let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in broth and molasses. Add 1 cup of all purpose flour and all the rest (except egg and milk). Place the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead in enough of remaining flour to make very stiff dough (5 minutes). Divide in half. Cover and let rest 10-15 minutes. Roll out each portion to 1/4 inch thickness. Cut into shapes, preferably 1 inch fish shapes. Place on un-greased cookie sheet. Combine beaten egg with milk. Brush over biscuits. Bake at 300 degrees for 35 minutes. Turn off oven and let biscuits cool in oven overnight.

More cat owner tips

WAIT! Don't put your cat up for adoption just yet. A well crafted training plain is all you need to a well behaved cat. FIND OUT HOW - click here

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jovan_Johnson

Is Gourmet Cat Food Really Tastier?

2008-07-02T19:12:00.000-07:00

By Derek Rogers

Looking along the aisles of your local pet food store, you will find an enormous selection of so-called gourmet cat foods available. These foods usually claim to include exotic human-like ingredients, such as shrimp, lobster, filet mignon, prawns, and even rare Kobe beef from Japan. The question is whether or not these foods taste better and are better for your cat.

Cats and Their Food

Cats need a different type of diet than humans and dogs. While the latter can eat and digest animal and plant matter fairly easily, cats are considered obligate carnivores. This means they are physically better able to digest meat products than anything else.

Another reason for the meat-heavy diet is a need for taurine, an acid found in the flesh of animals. Cats need taurine in their diets because their bodies can't produce it. Without taurine, cats can end up losing their sight.

You might think that offering your cat any type of meat-based food would appeal to them but that's not always the case. Cats can be such picky eaters they will literally starve themselves if they don't want to eat what is being offered.

And that brings us back to the main question: Are gourmet cat foods tastier?

Does it Taste Better?

The truth is that there's no real way humans can determine what tastes better for their cat. Cats are unique creatures. They have their own preferences when it comes to food. No third party can really predict what any one cat will like anymore than someone who doesn't know you can guess your dietary preferences.

Gourmet cat foods can be appealing because of their variety of flavours. Cats do enjoy a variety of flavours and can become bored if they are fed even something scrumptious day after day. However, some cats like to keep it simple and are just as happy eating the cheap foods.

The only way to know for sure what tastes best is to ask your cat.

The Bigger Question

While cats may have their own preferences for food, you need to make sure the food they choose from provides them with all of the nutrients they need for a healthy diet. Gourmet foods may cost more to buy but that doesn't necessarily mean they will provide the best health benefits for your cat.

When you choose a cat food, you need to look at the list of ingredients carefully. Here are some pointers:

* First ingredient - On any cat food, the first ingredient should be some type of real meat or fish. You do not want "chicken meal," for example. If possible, the first handful of ingredients should all be real meat.
* Anything artificial - Most foods do need some types of preservatives to keep it from spoiling. However, the food should not include artificial flavours or colours.
* Filler ingredients - Cheap pet foods often contain a lot of filler, such as rice or grains, which doesn't do much for your pet's health but do help them cut their own production costs.

If you pay attention to labels using the pointers above, you'll be able to find the tastiest and the healthiest food for your cat.

Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For information on gourmet cat foods, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK's leading suppliers of cat foods.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Derek_Rogers

Cat Aggression Problem

2008-07-02T19:11:00.000-07:00

By Jovan Johnson

Do you have a cat with aggression problems and you don't know what's wrong with your cat? It is a very complicated and upsetting problem for any owner to solve, so with that said lets learn how to stop our cat behavioral problems now instead of later......Worry no more about your cat aggression problems, here are some of the most asked questions and I will answer each of them for you...

Why is my cat aggressive towards my other cat and me?

This problem can be solved many ways but the most common for this is that your cat may have a medical problem. Cat Aggression problems can be caused by medical problems so first take your cat to you veterinarian, who will perform a physical examination of your cat. Alleviation of medical conditions often resolves the aggressive behavior of your cat. If your cat is fine (healthy that is), determine what kind of aggression your cat is displaying in order to formulate a good strategy, and ultimately, a solution.

How do I stop my kittens from biting and scratching me when we play?

It's normal for your kitten to want to play by scratching and biting so don't be too worried about it. Biting and scratching during play time is typical and is look at as "play aggression," a behavior most commonly observed in young cats and kittens. When you play with your kitten jus make you play with a distance between your hands and the kitten, so your cat has no opportunity to bite or scratch you.

For examploe:

Toss moving objects like ping-pong balls, walnuts, or aluminum foil balls for your cat to chase them or Provide climbing perches, scratching posts, and ball toys that deliver food when batted about. This will reduce all of the aches and pains guaranteed.

Why does my cat get very agitated whenever someone new comes into my house?

This is a sign of "fear aggression," a defensive behavior towards unfamiliar people, animals, noises and even new places. Unpleasant experiences, like a trip to the veterinarian's office, may also trigger fear aggression in your cat. With a fear aggressive cat there are two things I recommend you not do.

First, do not console your cat! By trying to calm your cat down with a low tone and petting it does nothing but lets the cat think that you approve of their inappropriate behavior and that is not the case.

Secondly, when visitors come to your home tell them to not retreat or show any fear in front of a fear aggressive cat, because this teaches the cat that her behavior can make unwanted visitors go away. Lack of attention is a better strategy and it will work a lot better.

Why does my cat growls and hisses when I try to move her ff my bed?

This cat is attempting to control the situation through status-induced aggression. Other examples include cats that block doorways, or solicit attention from their owner. The signs of this kind of aggression include tail swishing, flattened ears, dilated pupils, growling, and hissing. You must ignore the cat's demands for play, food and attention, and make sure that any rewards must be given when the cat is relaxed (a relaxed cat holds her tail up, has normal sized pupils, and does not swat). The most effective reaction to status-induced aggression is to just ignore your cat completely.

More cat owner tips

WAIT! DONT PUT YOUR CAT UP FOR ADOPTION JUST YET. A WELL CRAFTED TRAINING PLAIN IS ALL YOU NEED TO A WELL BEHAVED CAT. FIND OUT HOW.. CLICK HERE

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Four Common Causes of Feline Sneezing

2008-07-02T19:10:00.000-07:00

By D Swain

In most cases, feline sneezing is a result of your cat's respiratory system functioning properly. However, your cat may possibly be sick if he starts to sneeze a lot. There are various things that can cause an episode of feline sneezing. Let's take a look at some of the most common causes.

Infection

An upper respiratory infection is one of the most common causes of feline sneezing. Infections that cause sneezing episodes are usually caused by the Adenovirus or the Parainfluenza virus. These viruses are highly contagious and can easily infect your cat after he comes into contact with other animals. The infections produce other symptoms besides sneezing such as swollen glands, coughing, and mucus discharge.

Rhinotracheitis

Another common cause of feline sneezing is the rhinotracheitis virus. This virus is responsible for causing herpes-1 in cats. Feline sneezing can be a difficult condition to treat if it is caused by this virus. Kittens infected with this virus can suffer permanent damage to the linings in their nose.

Allergies

Feline sneezing can also be caused by allergies. Your cat can be allergic to household cleaning chemicals, smoke, or even perfume or cologne that you wear. Similar to people, some cats also have episodes of feline sneezing at certain times of the year. This is likely due to the fact that the cat is allergic to something in the air.

Airways

One of the final causes of feline sneezing is a change in your cat's airways. Fungal infections can occur in your cat's nasal passages and cause problems. Also, tumors or nasal polyps can form and cause feline sneezing. This usually affects only one nostril and commonly occurs in older cats.

As a cat owner, you want to keep your special friend as healthy as possible. To learn more about various cat illnesses such as feline acne, stop by cat-illnesses.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=D_Swain

How To Go About Choosing A Cat Breed That Suits You

2008-06-04T05:49:00.000-07:00

By Birgit Hulsing
Domestic cats make great pets for most homes because they are very easy to care for and generally bond easily with humans. Most of the societies and cultures around the world have made it a practice to adopt cats into their family structures. However, domestic cats do vary quite a bit in their physical design and personalities from one breed to the next. Choosing a cat breed that suits you and your family is not a task that should be taken lightly. Nor should choosing a cat breed that suits you seem like a difficult task.

The first consideration when choosing a cat breed is the size of your living area. You may always think of cats as being leisurely lounge lizards, but many breeds spend as much time playing as lounging. Playful cat breeds need plenty of room to play. Also, the larger the play area and the more there is to do, such as another cat to interact with, the less likely the cat is to go mad if it doesn't see you much for a few days.

That leads to the second consideration when choosing a cat breed. You need to think about how much time your family is going to be able to spend with the cat. If your new little friend doesn't at least get a couple of gentle touches and a cuddle every other day, it will go mad. Although how much attention is necessary has a lot to do with the breed. The other part of the time consideration is that some cats require more grooming maintenance such as bathing and brushing. A busy family should get a cat with short fur.

The third consideration when choosing a cat breed is allergies to cats. These allergies are not uncommon, but there is much variance in the degree in which they manifest themselves. Someone with a very heavy cat allergy probably should not own a cat. Someone with a light allergy that results in a few sneezes or coughs a day can have a cat, but should be careful in choosing a cat breed that will minimize allergen exposure. For example, you will want to choose a cat breed that has short fur and rarely sheds its fur to reduce your exposure.

The fourth, and probably most often forgotten, consideration when choosing a cat breed is the cost of taking care of that breed. Some breeds are hardier than others. Many breeds have common ailments, such as deafness or fur balls, that may get costly in veterinarian visits. Also, a cat that weighs half as much and has a lazy temperament will eat less than half as much as the cat that weighs twice as much and is packed full of energy.

The fifth, and final, consideration when choosing a cat breed is how the personality of the kitty matches up with the other personalities of your family. Cats come in different temperaments. There are lap, child-friendly, indoors, independent hunter, and jealous, one-person cats.

Brigit Hulsing is a cat behaviour researcher and helps cat owners with practical tips and advice on cat toilet training and cat training

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Birgit_Hulsing

Cat Or Kitten - Which One Would Be Better For You

2008-06-04T05:47:00.001-07:00

By Hayi Mansoor

Nothing is better than to sit back and watch a kitten play! They are hilarious and heartwarming and at the same time, a wonderful pet. Kittens can be a lot of work in their first few months of life, but after they grow a little, you will end up with a pet fit for kings. An adult cat, depending on his age, will keep that tendency to play and have goofy antics as well. All this action in both cats and kittens comes from their instincts to hunt. When looking to get a cat or kitten as a pet, follow these tips:

• Remember to keep in mind other pets you may have at home. An adult cat may not get along with other cats or dogs. Introducing them could be tricky. The rule to follow here is play it by ear and if you do bring home a cat or a kitten, monitor the meetings with other pets very closely. You don't want to end up with a vets bill from a fight. You don't need this !

• The different breeds of cats is something else to think about. A short haired breed is easier to take care of as far as grooming goes. A long-haired breed will require a good brushing at least every other day to prevent mattes from forming. You probably don't need to worry about bathing a cat. They do a good job of this on their own.

• Having an adult cat will probably be easier than taking on a kitten. Usually, keeping an adult cat indoors is fairly simple. Litter training is a natural act for cats. Most of the time, all you have to do is show them where the litter box is and they'll go there every time. Kittens are the same way, but they may take a little more coaching. They will go to the box, but most mistakes are right around the box. A good idea is to put the litter box on floor without carpets, easy clean-up!

• Having children around a cat or a kitten isn't a big danger if you supervise them together. Some cats are laid back and will let you roll all over him just for the attention. Then there are cats who don't like all the attention. Older cats usually fall into this category. With any animal, don't leave children alone with them to keep down bites and scratches.

• Whether you decide on a cat or kitten, you will need to have the necessary items for care. A litter box, a good brand of clay litter, the correct food, and lots of toys, especially if it's a kitten you are bringing home.

• As for diet, don't feed table scraps. This will result in a terrible mess in the litter box! There are brands of cat food for adult cats and there are brands just for kittens. Make sure you get kitten food for a kitten because it is formulated with special nutrients for a kitten's growing needs.

For further information, please visit Information about Pets

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Abdul Hayi Mansoor
SEO Specialist and Article Marketer

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Hayi Mansoor - EzineArticles Expert Author

Is A Homemade Cat Food Diet Really Good For Your Pets?

2008-06-04T05:47:00.000-07:00

By Jennifer McVey
If you are thinking about making homemade cat food, then it is important to follow a few simple rules. Not only can making cat food at home save you money on feeding your cat, but homemade cat food recipes can also provide better health, happiness, and longevity for your cat. If you decide on serving homemade pet food to your animal, then you should also consider adding certain supplements to provide your cat with the essential vitamins it needs.

There are many different types of cat food you can make. Some people like to make their own dry cat food at home because it saves them money. You should always talk to your veterinarian before changing your cat's diet or if you are considering homemade food. Find out what you can feed your cat. If your cat needs to be on a low protein diet then you need to know this too. A veterinarian will be able to tell you which foods are harmful for your cat and which foods are beneficial. Your cat also might need a daily vitamin. It's important to discuss all of these options with your veterinarian, to be sure you are providing the healthiest diet possible to your pets.

Your cat needs a protein source. When you make homemade cat food you should combine at least one source of protein. The proteins you can add to this recipe include ½ pound of minced boneless chicken thigh or breast, 6 ounces of ground or minced dark turnkey meat, ½ pound minced lean beef, or ½ pound ground or minced beef, chicken, or turkey heart. You should include a chopped hard boiled egg into your cat's diet at least three times a week. You can feed your cat a can of tuna but it should be packed in water and not in oil. Sardines and salmon with bones are also good for your cat but only once every two weeks. Keep in mind that feeding your cat canned fish may not be a good idea as it causes urinary tract problems. So use it sparingly.

If your veterinarian suggested a low-protein diet for your pet, then you should add one cup of cooked white rice with the meat to fill out the meal.

There are supplements you should give your cat for essential vitamins and minerals it needs like calcium, vegetables, salt, and more. You can add two teaspoons of olive oil or one teaspoon of flaxseed oil to the homemade cat food. You should include two tablespoons of pureed vegetables or vegetable baby food. Be cautious with spices however; for example adding onion powder to any cat food recipe is a no-no, as it could make your cat ill.

When planning to switch your cat from a commercial pet food diet to homemade cat food, talk to your veterinarian first. Regardless of the food you feed your pet, be sure you are providing him with all the essential ingredients he needs to live a long, healthy life.

Learn more about homemade cat food and healthy pet food recipes at http://www.saferpetfood.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_McVey

Training Your Stubborn Cat

2008-06-04T05:46:00.000-07:00

By Kasia L.
In the wild, most cats are shown as solitary creatures and very territorial. They are also shown as stubborn and arrogant. Cats are typically very proud animals and don't like to listen to others.

Even though most cats aren't all like this, most of the time cats are. When compared to dogs, cats are shown as disobedient and less eager to please owners. This is why it is critically important to start training your cat at the get go so it doesn't start getting comfortable doing bad behaviors.

You need to start training your cat as soon as you get it and establish the role of your cat and the family members of the house. Show the cat that you are the master. When you train your cat right, you can have very good relationships between your cat.

Not training your cat properly is just like not raising a kid properly. It will end up growing up and being a big problem and trouble maker. A cat that understands your orders and knows how to follow orders will be great.

The step you must do before training your cat is understand the cats instinctual behaviors. Cats, like all other animals, have instincts they are born with and we as pet owners must respect these. Some cats may feel stressed or sad and you must accept this and not take it as a cat being stubborn. Screaming and scolding your cat makes it even harder to train your cat to do what you want and lessens the trust your cat will have for you.

Kasia has a Free Cat Training Tips Report that shows you how to get your cat to do what you want when you want.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kasia_L.

Tips How To Train Your Cat

2008-06-04T05:45:00.000-07:00

By Kasia L.
When it comes to learning how to train your cat, there is one simple thing you need to understand. The thing you need to know is the main keys of cat behavior. Cats have very different behaviors than dogs or any other animal. Forcing a training tactic or trick on your cat won't work.

There are some simple rules that you really need to follow when you train your cat. One is that you should train your cat at a proper time. Don't wake your cat up for training. It most likely won't listen to you. Also, be sure to train your cat using short sessions for training. Don't train too long as your cat will get bored and tired. And lastly, be sure to use a positive reward such as a toy, food, or petting when your cat obeys you.

In order to train your cat you first need to learn and understand your cats personality. Every cat is different and knowing the type of personality your cat has will greatly make training much easier. Find out what your cat likes and doesn't like and then use that to your advantage. When you give your cat rewards and treats, be sure it is only when the cat is being trained. If your cat can have easy access to the reward, it won't respond as well to tricks or orders for that treat.

For example, if you want to teach your cat to jump onto your shoulder you have to start small. First, get close to the cat and then put some of a treat on your shoulder. The cat probably will probably reach for the treat on your shoulder. This is the first step. After this, try to get the cat to reach even farther towards your shoulder. The last step is having the cat jump onto the shoulder.

Kasia has a Free Cat Training Tips Report that shows you how to get your cat to do what you want when you want.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kasia_L.

Cat Behavior And Cat Training Tips

2008-06-04T05:43:00.000-07:00

By Kasia L.
A lot of people think that training a cat is really difficult. Cats can be really stubborn animals and can seem not to listen to anybody, however, they really are not that hard to train if you use the right cat training tips and techniques.

Many cat owners simply give up after feeling that the task of training their cat is too hard. Especially of the cat owner has a dog. Dogs are so excited to do anything for treats and such and cats are not the same.

You can still teach your cat tricks and train it to obey you simply by following tips. People teach cats how to do crazy stuff such as use human toilets and even act like dogs. The key to training is to use positive reinforcement.

The basis of this reinforcement is to simply reward your cat when it does something you like and not do a thing when it doesn't. For example, if your cat does a back flip you give it a treat. If it doesn't do a back flip you just ignore it and do nothing.

You cannot do this all at once. You need to train your cat in small steps. Very slowly you should train your cat. For example, when training your animal to use the litter box start slowly moving it closer and closer to the bathroom. Before you know it your cat will be using the toilet!

When you combine these two tactics you should have no problem training your cat to do what you want.

Kasia has a Free Cat Training Tips Report that shows you how to get your cat to do what you want when you want.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kasia_L.

Train Your Cat 10 Minutes A Day

2008-06-04T05:42:00.000-07:00

By Kasia L.
Is it really possible to train your cat in less than ten minutes a day? Doesn't it take more time? Actually, it doesn't. Too much time training can be not very effective and many owners won't tell you this little secret.

The key to training your cat with that little amount of time every day is being consistent. Also, because this really is a somewhat slow process you need to have some patience. In addition to doing it every single day, you should also choose a certain time to do it as well. This will keep you consistent as well as the cat. Don't train your animal on off hours or when the cat is sleeping.

Now that we covered the basics before the training, let's get to it. Cats have very short attentions so it is helpful training them in this little amount of time. During this time you need to really have good sessions.

When you train your cat be sure not to use negative reinforcement such as punishment. Hitting or punishing your cat will do nothing and your cat will just look at you not understanding it.

Cats are much smaller than people. Hitting them or doing some sort of punishment through hitting won't be effective at all and is actually abuse. Use the cats mind and manipulate it to obey you instead.

The key to training your cat when you can't punish it is to use the psychological tactic called positive reinforcement. You reward your cat when it does something good and do nothing when it does something wrong. The result is that they will do the good act to get the positive reinforcement such as a treat or something of that nature.

With these simple tactics I'm positive that you will be training your cat in no time.

Kasia has a Free Cat Training Tips Report that shows you how to get your cat to do what you want when you want.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kasia_L.

Treating Furballs in a Cat

2008-06-04T05:40:00.000-07:00

By Belinda Osgood
The hacking gag, often followed by a blob of spittle, or worse, most commonly signifies a furball in a cat. While this is a common issue and quite normal, especially for long-haired animals, it is still distressing to see your cat go through the eviction process. It is also unpleasant to clean up when the evicted mess lands on your carpet.

When a cat grooms, a generous amount of loose fur is licked from their coats. Unable to spit the fur from their mouths, the cat must swallow it and it accumulates in the stomach. When the fur forms a significant mass, a furball results and this is what the cat must purge.

Furballs, while rarely a problem for your cat, are far from desirable. Here are a few tips for helping reduce the frequency of furballs in your cat.

• Regularly groom your pet. Begin when they are a kitten and they will love the process. Introducing an older cat to it may cause distress to both cat and owner. There are a variety of products on the market. I find that a soft, long-bristled brush is most effective on my long-haired cat, while my short-haired cat responds better to a grooming mitt with rubber prongs. As you groom periodically remove the dislodged hair from the brush or mitt's surface to maintain its effectiveness.

• During the moulting seasons - most notably when they shed the summer coat in autumn and lose their winter coat in spring - add half a teaspoon of vegetable oil mixed in with their food, once every few days. This helps lubricate the digestive tract and enables the fur to pass more easily through their system without requiring vomiting.

• Invest in a cat food or cat treats designed to help prevent or treat furballs. My favourite product to use is furball treats made in Holland. My cats love them more than catnip treats! They are safe, enjoyable, and a lovely way to show your affection and look after their health. They have the dual purpose of preventing furballs and treating cats who've already developed furballs.

These few simple steps can eliminate furball issues, or at least dramatically minimize the frequency of them occurring. Furballs, on occasion may cause a problem whereby it triggers an irritation of the digestive tract or where the animal is unable to expel the mass. These cases are not common, and if they occur, a veterinarian consultation is necessary. Always monitor your pet for any signs of associated illness such as loss of appetite, weight loss, or apathy. These can signify a more serious furball issue or other health issue that requires the advice of a vet.

Belinda Osgood is a writer who enjoys working from home in the company of numerous pets, including two cats. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Belinda_Osgood

Why House-Training Cats Is Simple But Important

2008-06-04T05:37:00.000-07:00

By Brian E Hill
Luckily cats are exceedingly clean animals and broadly speaking you don't require to housebreak them at all. During the first few weeks after birth they'll start to use the litter box, especially if they observe their mother doing the same thing.

If they're going to the toilet out of doors, it's natural for them to cover up after they've finished.

For newborn kittens you need to provide them with a litter box because they will need to be kept inside the house till they get accustomed to their new place.

Fill a box with cat litter to an adequate depth that will permit them to dig, about 2 ins, and place the box in a quiet space where they don't sense that they're being watched as many kittens can become rather embarrassed whenever they believe people are looking at them as they're going to the toilet.

You should on a regular basis take out any wet litter and droppings, and ensure that the cat litter stays clean at all times otherwise the kitten will not be willing to use it.

When you have additional cats using the litter box you will need to empty it a good deal more often as they will tend to go more frequently, as cats tend to mark over each other in a similar way like they practice with marking their territory.

Whenever you discover that your cat or kitten isn't using its litter box as it should there are a few reasons why this could be occurring.

The most obvious reason is that the litter isn't cleaned adequately.

Instead the litter box could be in a location that the cat isn't happy with and placing it in a more secluded place could settle the problem.

Elderly or incontinent cats may necessitate a visit to the veterinarian to ascertain if they can resolve the problem and sick cats will frequently not bother going to the litter box.

Some of the times it can merely be a behavioral problem with your cat and this will need to be settled with appropriate action and the correct training methods.

Cats in estrus will also spray so as to attract mates and the only redress for this is neutering.

Go to How To Care For Your Cat to learn about caring for the welfare of one of our most beloved animal pets.

The author, Brian Hill, is a life-long lover of animals, and having had cats as pets for all his adult life, he is particularly knowledgeable of them. His last cat died a few weeks ago after a long (20+ years) life, and by caring for all the cats that he has had, he is very familiar with their habits, and especially of how to care for them. He has a website http://mycatcarestore.com/ where he has a variety of items that are especially geared towards the better care of cats.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brian_E_Hill

Cat Enclosures - Are They Worth It?

2008-06-04T05:35:00.000-07:00

By Randa Magdi
Cats who have access to all areas of the outdoors run the risk of being hit by cars, being attacked by dogs, poisoned, injured or killed by wild animals and they are at risk from the odd human that has a cruel streak.

If you are looking for safer alternative for you cat to have access to the outdoors in a protected and controlled environment, you can consider a cat enclosure or cat run.

Having your cat enclosed allows them to enjoy the outdoors and allows you peace of mind knowing that no harm will come to your cat. Let's face it - a cat loves nothing more than lazing around in the direct sunlight.

You have several options. There are a number of companies who specialize in building cat enclosures and cat runs.

Our rear yard, for instance, is completely covered with a cat-proof mesh so that the cats have the run of the entire yard. We had this professionally installed.

But, you needn't cover your whole yard. You may like to cat proof a portion of it.

In our previous residence which was a ground floor apartment we had a modular cat run installed which contained a tunnel and towers with hammocks. The cats could jump out of the window, climb around the tower and then walk around or lay in the tunnel. Similar cage like structures are found in pet stores.

If you are a handy person, you can erect your own DIY cat run, or hire a tradesman to build one to your specifications.

If you search the web you are sure to find a collection of ideas that other cat lovers have used themselves.

Keeping your cat indoors with a safe outdoor environment they can access actually helps them to live longer too.

I love animals, good food and the company of friends so I like to indulge my passions. Hence, my life revolves around these - both privately and professionally. This is my idea of living my dreams..

As a pet owner, I want the very best for my pets as I know other pet lovers do. So, I have been a co-creator of a new website called http://dogsandcats.com.au The service is the sort of one-stop-shop we have looked for in the past ourselves. Our true passion is for the animals - to make sure you have access to the best they can get.

We want to give you a place to cater to all of your dog and cat needs. You can find out about your local service providers and see what sort of a reputation they have based on ratings others have left. If you know of a great service that's not included - just click here to add it (http://www.dogsandcats.com.au/register.php).

When you visit our dog and cat site you will be able to sign up and receive our free ecourse. You will discover the seemingly innocent human foods that can be fatal to your pet. You will learn about plants and flowers to avoid, how to ensure your house is pet friendly and we'll cover travel safety. When you register you will also receive details and be in the running for our competitions, give-aways and other news.

If dinner parties are your thing also, you may care to visit my dinner party ideas blog. Yes, you can have the regular dinner party but with just a little planning, you can make your next dinner party a night your guests will remember (http://www.dinnerpartyideas.blogspot.com/).

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randa_Magdi

Learn More About Your Cat's Claws

2008-06-04T05:33:00.000-07:00

By Randa Magdi
Did you know that cats are the only animals that walk directly on their claws, not on their paws? If you picture a human, it would be like us walking around on our fingertips.. This is called digitigrades and proves a very useful feature for moving at high speeds. So, cat's claws are particularly useful for moving at high speeds.

Cats in the home are not being vindictive when sharpening their claws on your lovely furniture - nor are they actually sharpening their claws. What they are in fact doing is tearing off the ragged edges of the sheaths of their talons when scratching.

Claws have layers of skin just as an onion does - the claws are in fact an extension of the cat's skin. The outer layer of tissue is continually growing and needs to be removed to accommodate new growth so you will often see bits of the claw spread around the area where the cat has been grooming its nails.

They shed their claws throughout the year to expose new sharp ones underneath. The claws are not only for protection but are also responsible for the cat's delicate balance and amazing feats like climbing, stretching, running, and grooming.

It is not uncommon for cat owners to occasionally want to clip their cat's nails. Clipping nails is only recommended if you own an indoor cat because claws are your cat's only defense along with their most versatile tool for survival. Not only that, scratching is a very normal activity and behaviour for cats.

If you are going to trim your cat's nails, you need to be sure to do it properly. The most important thing is to avoid going anywhere near the "quick". The quick is the hard pink tissue at the base of each claw.. the nail itself is translucent so you can see all the way through it. Accidentally cutting the "quick" causes pain and bleeding for your cat.

Special claw trimmers are available from vets or pet stores but sharp human nail clippers work just as well. You need to be gentle with your cat and trim the nails when it is sleepy or relaxed.

It is recommended you hold the clippers in a vertical position (up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail). This position helps prevent splitting.

But if you feel uncomfortable in any way trimming your cat's claws your vet can do the job for you as can a groomer.

In some countries people declaw their cats for the sake of their furniture! Declawing both physically and psychologically affects cats in a major way.

Declawing involved not only removing the claws but also the first joint (the toes) - so in effect it is like a series of amputations.

I love animals, good food and the company of friends so I like to indulge my passions. Hence, my life revolves around these - both privately and professionally. This is my idea of living my dreams..

As a pet owner, I want the very best for my pets as I know other pet lovers do. So, I have been a co-creator of a new website called http://dogsandcats.com.au The service is the sort of one-stop-shop we have looked for in the past ourselves. Our true passion is for the animals - to make sure you have access to the best they can get.

We want to give you a place to cater to all of your dog and cat needs. You can find out about your local service providers and see what sort of a reputation they have based on ratings others have left. If you know of a great service that's not included - just click here to add it (http://www.dogsandcats.com.au/register.php).

When you visit our dog and cat site you will be able to sign up and receive our free ecourse. You will discover the seemingly innocent human foods that can be fatal to your pet. You will learn about plants and flowers to avoid, how to ensure your house is pet friendly and we'll cover travel safety. When you register you will also receive details and be in the running for our competitions, give-aways and other news.

If dinner parties are your thing also, you may care to visit my dinner party ideas blog. Yes, you can have the regular dinner party but with just a little planning, you can make your next dinner party a night your guests will remember (http://www.dinnerpartyideas.blogspot.com/).

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randa_Magdi

Reasons For Cat Spraying

2008-06-04T04:48:00.000-07:00

By A R Tanty

You may have noticed that when your cat is new to your home, or every once in a while, will spray their urine. Urine spraying is a very normal cat behavior; it is their way of marking their territory.

Spraying is most common in cats that are entire or not neutered male cats as well as households with more than one cat. Cats spray mainly on curtains, bed spreads and furniture; this lets other cats know he was there first and that it is his space.

There are ways to prevent this behavior; one is you can have your cats neutered. Another reason a cat will spray is if she sees another cat whether in your home or looking through the window in your home.

Cats like to sit in windows and you don’t want to cut them off from sunlight and activity of outside but if your cat likes to look out the window then pull up any drapes, move your furniture way from the window or cover the bottom portion of the window. Just until they feel more secure and relaxed.

Here are some methods you can do to stop or reduce your cat spraying. If you have more than one cat, try to play with all of your cats together. Cats that get along will most likely not spray since they don't feel threatened.

Don’t disrupt the life of your cat to often. Cats hate changes and change to their routine can bring about the spraying. There are cat repellants on the market that you may use on the areas they like to help deter them from spraying.

The scent will keep the cat away; it is perfectly safe for humans so you don’t have to worry. Make sure you scrub the areas where the cats sprayed completely. You don’t want the scent of cat urine in your home or to be an invitation to encourage feline to reuse the spot.

For more resources on cats: complete-catcare.blogspot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=A_R_Tanty

Catscape - Interesting Facts on Cats

2008-05-14T06:00:00.000-07:00

By Grace Heal
I have always said, "I don't own my cat; He own me!" You know how it is? You sit down in your favourite lounge chair to relax and read the paper. Puss spies you out, jumps on your lap. He creeps to your shoulder, extending a paw either side and you are engulfed by him! Well this is the scene I inadvertably find myself in. My cat, "Tom" (as in "Tom and Jerry") is the most possessive creature!... but I love him. He is adorable and very spoilt. He is also good company.

DID YOU KNOW???

Cats make over 100 different vocalization sounds, and their hearing is much more sensitive than humans and dogs. They are the only animals that purr.

Cats have 30 vertebrae, which is 5 more than humans, and have 230 bones, which is 24 more than humans.

Cats can jump 5 times their height. When they do jump, their foot pads absorb the shock of landing. It is a myth that cats always land on their feet, they may instinctively fall feet first, but can receive broken bones. Most cats can survive a fall of 30 feet.

Most cats have no eyelashes. They are born with 6 or 7 front toes and extra back toes are called polyduct! Cats walk on their toes.

Cats are also good swimmers, but they just don't like water.

Their whiskers are specialized sensory hairs located in 3 locations on the cats head, this being 12 on each side of their nose.

All cats are born with blue eyes. IN dim lights cats eyes must be open as wide as possible for them to "see in the dark", but must be able to contract to very small to protect the retina which is very sensitive in bright sun light. They also have a field of vision of 185 degrees.

A large majority of cats with white fur have blue eyes and are deaf. These cats with white fur are susceptible to sunburn, which can leas to skin cancer.

Flea eggs can survive for more than 10 years if the conditions are favourable.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Grace_Heal

How to Introduce a New Cat Or Kitten to Your Established Cat

2008-05-14T05:47:00.000-07:00

By Randa Magdi
Even though we know that cats are extremely territorial and do not easily accept a newcomer, it is reassuring to know that our cats can live in harmony with a newbie if the introductions are made correctly. They can adapt and accept a new cat into the family.

Doing the introductions properly and slowly at this initial stage will make life so much easier down the track.

At the outset you need to mindful that domestic tranquility will not happen instantly. It will take time and patience - but it will be worth it to be able to extend your family and enjoy the love and affection from another cat in the household.

The best approach is to get a friend to carry your new kitten or cat into your house in a cat carrier case. It should be seen as a no fuss affair.

The new cat should be taken to a separate room within which it will live on its own for a short time. The room should contain a cozy sleeping place, an individual litter box, water dish, feeding dish, toys and a scratching post.

Never attempt to put the cats together instantly or attempt to force a meeting.

You are bringing the new cat into the territory of your existing cats so by first allowing it to occupy this one room is the best option. Your existing cat will quickly know that another cat is in its territory.

Scent is highly important for cats - your existing cat will be able to smell the new cat - even behind closed doors. You can expect some tantrums to take place - hissing, crying, etc as your cat asserts itself to the newcomer.

You should let your cat smell the other cat indirectly. This could be done by rubbing a towel on one and letting the other smell it. They will gradually come to accept this scent as a normal household scent.

This initial period will set the tone for the relationship for a long time to come so it's worth putting in the effort for the period of time it can take.

And we must not forget that the new cat will also be highly stressed coming into a new environment - especially f it hears an unhappy cat on the other side of the door. You need to be patient and loving to both cats throughout this whole process.

The next step is to let the cats swap environments for a short period of time on a couple of occasions. You will need help with this - one person to carry out the new cat into the larger space while the other person takes the resident cat into the new cat's temporary room and stays with it while it smells the new scents. Of course the other cat should be supervised in case it dives under the lounge. At least you'll know where it is at all times.

The integration period may take from a few days to a week or longer. You will get a sense of when the temperaments settle as the adjustment slowly takes place.

Before the cats meet face-to-face in an open setting, it is recommended that you let them meet through the door which you hold slightly ajar so they can see one-another and sniff noses if they want. The other option is to get some sort of grate or something like a baby gate - so they can see and smell each other but not be able to pounce on one-another with this level of protection.

When you think the time is right, let them meet face-to-face and mingle with one-another - under constant and close supervision.

Ignore any hissing and growling and be ready to intervene if any kind of altercation starts to take place. The more they tolerate one-another, the more praise and attention each should receive. Again, there may need to be two of you at this delicate time.

Try to engage both of them in a pleasurable activity - like chasing a piece of string or playing with a toy they can both enjoy. This will let them associate fun and enjoyment with the company of the other cat. Give equal amounts of attention to both cats - playing and patting. Always let them eat from their own food bowls.

If things start to get heated between the cats, you will need to again separate them. The key is patience - eventually they will learn to accept one-another even if only begrudgingly. Cats can fine their own space and play the avoidance game for however long is necessary.

An introduction can really take from two hours to six months depending on the age of the cats and their temperaments - so the key is to persevere and be patient and calm.

If you have an older cat - rather than introduce one kitten, consider two kittens so they can amuse one-another and leave the older cat to enjoy some peace.

END

I love animals, good food and the company of friends so I like to indulge my passions. Hence, my life revolves around these - both privately and professionally. This is my idea of living my dreams..

As a pet owner, I want the very best for my pets as I know other pet lovers do. So, I have been a co-creator of a new website called dogsandcats.com.au. The service is the sort of one-stop-shop we have looked for in the past ourselves. Our true passion is for the animals - to make sure you have access to the best they can get.

We want to give you a place to cater to all of your dog and cat needs. You can find out about your local service providers and see what sort of a reputation they have based on ratings others have left. If you know of a great service that's not included - just click here to add it (http://www.dogsandcats.com.au/register.php).

When you visit our dog and cat site you will be able to sign up and receive our free ecourse. You will discover the seemingly innocent human foods that can be fatal to your pet. You will learn about plants and flowers to avoid, how to ensure your house is pet friendly and we'll cover travel safety. When you register you will also receive details and be in the running for our competitions, give-aways and other news.

If dinner parties are your thing also, you may care to visit my dinner party ideas blog. Yes, you can have the regular dinner party but with just a little planning, you can make your next dinner party a night your guests will remember (http://www.dinnerpartyideas.blogspot.com/).

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randa_Magdi

Four Common Feline Eye Diseases

2008-05-13T05:35:00.000-07:00

By D Swain
When healthy, your cat should have bright and clear eyes. There are a few common feline eye diseases that you should be aware about. Some of these include glaucoma, retinal atrophy, and conjunctivitis. Let's take a look at some of these diseases.

Glaucoma

One of the first common feline eye diseases is glaucoma. This is a condition in which there is too much pressure on the inside of the eye. Glaucoma is the one of the leading causes of blindness in cats. In its early stages, glaucoma can be treated with medication aimed at reducing the internal eye pressure. If your cat is in an advanced stage, surgery may be required.

Retinal Atrophy

One of the next common feline eye diseases is progressive retinal atrophy. This is a condition in which your cat's retina degenerates or shrinks. Retinal atrophy can be inherited or caused by a lack of taurine in your cat's diet. The condition progresses very slowly, but will eventually cause your cat to become blind. Unfortunately, progressive retinal atrophy is untreatable.

Cataracts

Cataracts are usually a problem with older cats or those that have diabetes. This condition occurs when your cat's lens become cloudy making it difficult for him to see. Cataracts can be treated with surgery to remove the lens. In some cases, the cat may receive lens implants. If the problem is left untreated, it can result in glaucoma.

Conjunctivitis

One of the final common feline eye diseases is conjunctivitis. Conjunctivitis occurs when the membrane that covers the eyelid and white of the eye becomes inflamed. It can be caused by viral, fungal, or bacterial infections. The condition can affect your cat if he has allergies. Chronic bouts with conjunctivitis is often caused by recurrent herpes viral infections.

As a cat owner, you want to keep your special friend as healthy as possible. To learn more about various cat illnesses such as Feline Calicivirus, stop by cat-illnesses.com. Your cat will thank you for it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=D_Swain

Three Common Feline Skin Diseases

2008-05-09T06:01:00.000-07:00

By D Swain
Feline skin diseases are some of the most common health problems that can affect your cat. The condition of your cat's skin and coat of hair is an important indicator of your cat's overall health, so it's important to be aware of it. Let's take a look at a few common feline skin diseases.

Acne

One of the most common feline skin diseases is acne. The most noticeable symptom of this condition is the formation of blackheads on your cat's chin. Although an exact cause is known, dermatitis, food allergies, and poor grooming can play a role. The veterinarian may not choose to treat feline acne is the case is mild enough.

If treatment of the acne is necessary, it usually comes in three forms. Your may have to bath your cat in a special shampoo that helps get rid of excess oil on your cat's skin. You may also have the option of using an antibiotic twice a day to get rid of the condition. If your cat is experiencing excessive inflammation, the veterinarian may choose to use corticosteroids.

Ringworm

Ringworm is also one of the most common feline skin diseases. This skin fungus frequently affects young, old, and long-haired cats although any cat can be affected. Symptoms include crusting, redness on the skin, and scaling. Some cats react to the fungus by over-grooming themselves which can cause hair loss. Treatment methods of ringworm include oral medication, shampoo, or clipping the cat's coat. You may also need to get rid of the fungus in the surrounding environment.

Cheyletiella Dermatitis

One of the last common feline skin diseases is Cheyletiella Dermatitis. This condition is caused by parasitic mites that can also be transmitted to humans. Your cat will likely experience various symptoms such as redness of the skin, small swelling spots, and dandruff. You may also notice large numbers of the white mites moving around on the surface of your cat's skin. Treatment for Cheyletiella Dermatitis includes dips in pyrethrin, lime sulfur, or selenium sulphide based shampoos. You will also need to get rid of the mites in the environment through spraying and vacuuming.

These are some of the most common feline skin diseases that can affect your cat. You should always pay attention to your cat's hair and skin as they can indicate how healthy your cat is.

As a cat owner, you want to keep your special friend as healthy as possible. To learn more about various cat illnesses such as feline diabetes, stop by cat-illnesses.com. Your cat will thank you for it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=D_Swain

Corrugated Litter Box

2008-05-03T01:23:00.000-07:00

By Robert Grazian
If you have a cat, you are well aware of just how pesky a litter box can be; this is where corrugated litter boxes can come in very handy. They have to be cleaned out on a then comes the time where all the litter needs to be dumped so that you and your kitty can start fresh. That is one of the most irritating chores of them all for cat owners, and that is a time when a corrugated litter box may be a great idea.

A corrugated litter box is just what it sounds like; it is a litter box that is composed of corrugated cardboard. This helps it to stay strong as a plastic one would, but also allows it to be completely disposable. After the litter has been scooped as much as possible, when it comes time to dump the whole litter box it easily folds down to fit in your outside trash can. This way, you don't have to worry about germs or making a mess that you may have to sweep up later; simply fold the cardboard litter box down and slip it into a trash bag.

Dump the bag and you're done! Best of all, you can unwrap a new corrugated litter box, pour litter in, and be done with the process. It sounds too simple, right? This is one of those cases in which something sounds too good to be true and it is really that way, and that is to the happy ears of loving cat owners around the world who have just been fed up with their current litter boxes.

There are other types of litter boxes that you may have tried, including the designer boxes that look like pieces of furniture, self cleaning litter boxes, hooded kitty litter boxes and more. Corrugated litter boxes are environmentally friendly and easy to deal with, giving you another helping hand in keeping your home as clean and sanitary as you want it to be, helping ensure a healthier life for everyone involved.

If you have a cat, corrugated litter boxes are definitely one of those things that you should be considering. There are many different options for your cat's sanitary purposes, and corrugated litter boxes are definitely one of those things that you should be considering.

Robert Grazian is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
To learn more about corrugated litter boxes visit Best Litter Boxes Online for current articles and discussions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Grazian

Cat Behavior - Why Do Cats Favor People Who Hate Them?

2008-05-03T01:08:00.000-07:00

By Brian E Hill
It is hard for us humans to understand cat behavior which can seem very strange and weird. Like all animals, they want food and water, and all cats like a clean litter tray and will try to get our attention when they have a need, but why do they do so many other weird things? For example, why does your cat always want to jump onto the lap of a friend who hates cats, even when there are lots of cat lovers in the room who would just adore for it to be fussed by them?

The reason is linked to another typical aspect of cat behavior. Have you noticed your cat rubbing up against furniture and pushing its head inside things like cartons and spaces? When cats go into a new place for the first time, or into a room that has just been redecorated, they will brush along the walls and go all around behind and under everything as if they are curious to see what is in all the hidden spaces in your room.

In fact they are not being curious at all. What the cat is doing is putting its saliva on the objects in the room, so that its scent is on them. This makes it clear to it and any other cats that the room is your cat's territory and those objects are part of it. In cat terms, your whole house and everything in it belongs to the cat. So why don't you see the cat licking everything? Because it doesn't need to. A cat spends so much time licking its fur, that rubbing its body against something is enough to transfer its saliva and scent.

For the same reason it will rub against any strangers who come into your house, and do the same to you if you have been out any place where there were other cats. It seems like it is welcoming you home, and it is, in a way. It is making you its property again. You may sometimes feel that your cat owns you instead of the other way around. Your cat would agree wholeheartedly!

This is why cats seem to target people who have pet allergies or don't like cats. Your cat wants to make all of your visitors belong in its house by giving them its scent. Most people will happily let it rub around their legs as soon as they walk in the door, or stroke it or let it lick their fingers, and its job is done. Those people have been accepted and it can ignore them for the rest of their visit, unless they wash or change their clothes. But people who are allergic will avoid the cat, and so the laws of cat behavior require that it keeps on trying to get close to them!

That is the reason that cat seem to love people who hate them!

Brian Hill is a life-long lover of animals, and having had cats as pets for all his adult life, he is particularly knowledgeable of them. His last cat died a few weeks ago after a long (20+ years) life, and by caring for all the cats that he has had, he is very familiar with their habits, and especially of how to care for them. He has a website http://mycatcarestore.com where he has a variety of items that are especially geared towards the better care of cats.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brian_E_Hill

Dying to Be Held

2008-05-02T07:31:00.000-07:00

By Carole Baskin
If we were only $20.00 away from curing cancer, we would surely all clamor to be the one to complete the fundraising for the cure. Some of the ills of our society are that close to a cure. Ending the abuse of baby lions and tigers is one of them.

In 2005 The Chronicles of Narnia's computer generated animation of Aslan the lion captivated the imagination of all who witnessed the fantasy. The notion of being so special that the creature known as the King of Beasts would allow us to touch him became irresistible to many when they were allowed to act out their fantasy. It only cost them $20.00... and their conscience.

After paying $20.00 to have their picture made with a baby lion or tiger the vast majority of people, who learned the truth about the miserable lives captive cats lead, confess "I knew in my heart that there was something wrong..." Often it is the nagging conscience, reminding them of the distressed baby's cries for their real mothers, the barren accommodations, and the sleaziness of the business operators that haunted them long after the thrill of the moment had passed.

Most of the "pay to play" operations stay on the move. They set up in flea markets, fair grounds and parking lots for only a few days at a time. They frequently change their names and rarely own a facility anywhere that is open to public scrutiny. Then know that their pitch of doing this for education or conservation can easily be disproved. By the time they are found out, they are on the road again. In 2005 there were far too many lion and tiger babies bred just for this purpose and those who paid to touch them would be appalled if they knew how life has turned out for those innocent cubs.

Big cats can breed several times a year, giving birth to 2-6 cubs. The cubs are immediately pulled and bottle raised so that the mothers can be bred again. It was not unusual to see a circus-type side show offering the public the chance to handle cubs who were only days old. To keep the cubs small they are often starved, and deprived of the calcium and vitamins needed to build big, healthy bodies. In some cases cubs have been purposely poisoned to give them diarrhea so that they cannot put on any weight. Pound for pound a big cat is 12 times stronger than a man, so keeping them small and handlable is the main objective for these abusers. When they get too big to use, they disappear and there is virtually no way to track them. If the dealer has 10 tigers this year and 10 tigers next year, then it appears as if no births and no disappearances have happened, so no further investigation takes place. It is no coincidence that the US is the second largest consumer of illegal, black market tiger parts.

In 2007 USDA adopted a policy stating that baby big cats, under the age of 8 weeks and over the age of 16 weeks, could not be handled by the public. They also define a big cat as lions, tigers, jaguars, leopards, mountain lions, and cheetahs. Florida and some other states still classify a mountain lion as a small cat and allow them to be kept as pets, despite the fact that they can grow to be over 200 lbs and are very dangerous.

Many pseudo sanctuaries breed their big cats to attract donors and to lure volunteers who want to play with the babies. But in 2007 the US Fish and Wildlife Service announced: "Accredited wildlife sanctuary means a facility that cares for live specimens of one or more of the prohibited wildlife species and:

(1) Is approved by the United States Internal Revenue Service as a corporation that is exempt from taxation under Sec. 501(a) of the Internal Revenue Code;

(2) Does not commercially trade in prohibited wildlife species, including offspring, parts, and products;

(3) Does not propagate any of the prohibited wildlife species; and

(4) Does not allow any direct contact between the public and the prohibited wildlife species." (prohibited wildlife species incl. lions, tigers, leopards, snow leopards, clouded leopards, jaguars, cougars and cheetahs).

A lot can change in three years and there have been fewer and fewer news reports hawking the fun of touching a baby wild cat. Venues are becoming more aware of the public disdain for the practice and no longer want to be associated with what is now commonly viewed as cruelty. Every year there is a parade in Pinellas County, FL where a local man takes his tigers, bears and other exotic animals out in circus wagons as part of the spectacle. It has been a tradition that has gone from being accepted to being booed in just the last year. The operation owner and wildlife trapper, Vernon Yates was quoted in the St. Pete Times as saying, "I thought I would not see it in my lifetime but I think it's coming - any form of private (exotic animal) ownership will be gone." The public has become better informed and not only is refusing to support this abuse, but many people are coming forward to end it.

Innkeepers at the Sobotta Manor Bed and Breakfast, Robin and Thurman Hester, wrote Big Cat Rescue asking for help, saying, "I am an Innkeeper in Mount Airy North Carolina where an organization called The Zoo (owned by Pat & Robert Engessor) visited a few days back and they had as part of their show an eight week old tiger cub that was being handed to person after person to have photos made and was crying as in pain the entire time. Additionally when the cat was placed back in the pen it was too ill to even walk and had severe dysentery. They would just rinse its rear and hand to the next person. The condition of this baby was awful and I am afraid for its life. My friend, as well as others, witnessed the condition of this cub. I am from Tampa and am familiar with your organization and hope you can assist."

Paula Sabatke writes, "I live in northern Wisconsin and visited the Big Cat Rescue for the first time in December, although I have been a fan for years. I am sure that you hear these stories all to often, but I would like your help. This past weekend I attended a professional conference in the Wisconsin Dells at a large resort, the Kalahari. In the lobby, a private vendor was set up with a very young white tiger cub in a small glass enclosure. For a fee, one could pay to have a picture taken with the cub. This cub was about the size of a large house cat and could barely stand on its own. While I took the opportunity to tell anyone who would listen what a terrible and inhumane situation this was, I felt that I should be doing something more. Can you offer any suggestions?"

One of the heretofore most popular tourist attractions in Africa was the opportunity to pet baby lions. The operators of these lion farms have sold themselves as being conservation breeding programs so that people would feel good about doing something that they know in their hearts to be wrong. The Drakenstien Lion Park urges people to consider these facts, "These inbred, human imprinted and psychologically damaged animals have absolutely no conservation value. They cannot be rehabilitated into the wild. They cannot be used to supplement dwindling wild populations." The lion park, which rescues some cast off captive bred lions, further explains that the only use for these cubs, after they have grown up, is by the canned hunting ranches and says, "Every reputable animal welfare organization in the world considers the practice of using lion cubs for human playthings as cruelty."

Carole Baskin, Founder of Big Cat Rescue reports, "We respond to every one of these complaints and urge the witness to take pictures, videos and written statements about what they saw to the USDA, to the state agencies that monitor wildlife, and to the media to expose the awful way these great cats are being treated." They have been doing it and there has been a tremendous shift in the way people are thinking about and treating wild animals.

When the next Aslan the lion movie, Prince Caspian, opened in theaters May 17, 2008 there did not appear to be even one baby lion or baby tiger photo booth advertised across the nation. "We monitor the keywords: lion, tiger, cub, big cat and others via google news alerts and we closely monitor sites like www.911AnimalAbuse.com which is a site that allows people who have witnessed animal abuse to post a letter, photos and video while contacting USDA and the agencies mentioned above at the bottom of every page. We didn't see one report of a baby lion or baby tiger being used as a prop in conjunction with the opening of the movie," says Carole Baskin.

So near and yet so far. Exotic and endangered animals are increasingly in the mainstream news as experts such as the 43 member, International Tiger Coalition and the World Bank announced a launch in June of 2008 to save the tiger from extinction. These same groups compiled a petition of more than 125,000 signatures to ban tiger farming. And yet, at a restaurant in Florida on Memorial Day Weekend, the special was "lion steak" for $48.95 a plate because the lion, although in considerable peril, is not yet classified as endangered. To quote Harrison Ford in his public service announcement for Wildaid, a member of the International Tiger Coalition, "When the buying stops, the killing can too."

We are standing right on the edge of the societal shift toward being more compassionate. There is a bill before congress that will end the public contact with big cats and their babies and thousands upon thousands of people have written their lawmakers to support this bill to protect the babies from being bred, used and discarded as petting props. It is called Haley's Act (HR 1947) and is named after a 17 year old girl who was mauled to death by a tiger while posing for a photo. You can write a letter in support of the new law at www.CatLaws.com You can end this kind of animal abuse in your lifetime. The cure is only $20.00 and a letter away. Don't pay to play with a baby big cat and write your Congress today!

Carole Baskin, CEO of Big Cat Rescue
an Educational Sanctuary home
to more than 100 big cats
12802 Easy Street Tampa, FL 33625
813.920.4130 fax 885.4457

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carole_Baskin

Cat Furniture - Give Your Feline the Style it Deserves

2008-05-02T07:21:00.000-07:00

By Jennifer Akre
Cats may be wondering just what happened. Once upon a time, they were revered as gods. In ancient Egypt, people worshiped cats as those who protected them from death. Somehow, that whole campaign changed over time and now cats, while still loved, are pretty much expected to be content with a food dish, litter box and a couple of toys.

But, it doesn't have to be that way. If you are a cat person, there is still time to let your feline know you appreciate him or her and understand that all cats are descendants of royalty.

One way to start this is to purchase some new pieces of cat furniture for your feline friend. If this is new territory for you, start simple.

Does your cat have a scratching post? For indoor cats, this is an essential piece of cat furniture. Not only will your cat appreciate having their own new piece of cat furniture, but also your people furniture will appreciate that the cats claws are steering clear of the upholstery.

The next step is cat trees. These are essentially carpet covered wood pieces that can be multiple levels of play for your cat. Many cats like to perch. Cat trees give them a chance to do this, climbing up varying levels of these cat furniture pieces to find the best perch for the moment. This type of cat furniture is great for an active cat because it offers a play area for the cat and can double as a scratching post for when they want to sink their claws into something.

If you are still feeling your kitty deserves a little more lavishing, we move to the next piece of cat furniture, cat houses and condos. These are a step up from cat trees in the respect that the levels of this cat furniture are enclosed, carpeted boxes that serve as small homes or beds for cats as they climb upwards.

If you really need to treat your cat like royalty, and your cat is open to all sorts of things, you may try specialty cat furniture. There are a number of cat beds and houses that are not the traditional wood and carpet variety. These houses and beds have been decorated to make your cat look like a celebrity. If you want your cat to feel like a king or queen, there are even cat beds and houses that look like thrones or crowns, so your feline can rest in style.

In addition to the cat furniture, don't forget a few extra cat toys. Just like kids, cats like variety in what they are playing with. Sure, they may have a favorite toy or two, but just ask your kids, it is always nice to have some extra toys to choose from. Cats think the same way. For bonus points, you may want to give your cat toys that are filled with catnip. If you haven't done this before, purchase a little, toss it out for your cat and then sit back and watch.

Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of different niche online stores that offer customers not only products, but information relating to furnishing and decorating indoor and outdoor living spaces. Whether you want to redecorate your living room or create the ultimate outdoor environment perfect for your pet, there is a lot of helpful advice to take advantage of to make it happen. Today, she shares her insight when investing in durable cat furniture, cozy cat houses and adventure-filled cat trees.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre

Cat Furniture Towers - A Must Have For All Cat Owners

2008-05-02T07:10:00.000-07:00

By Bob Schmitt
Cats are a great pet to have especially if you have a hectic work schedule. They are very independent and can stay occupied indoors for long stretches at a time. Plus they use litter boxes which can stay indoors meaning you never have to worry about an accident after missing a walk. The one downside to owning a cat that all cat owners will mention is their claws.

From the time a cat is a small kitten it has sharp little claws that are perfect for scratching for fun or defense. In addition to being great for scratching the claws are great for helping your cat cling to surfaces when they are running around. Many cat owners have been horrified to find that their couches and other furniture have been scratched to bits just because your cats have been jumping from surface to surface during their random play. Worst, some cat owners have had their furniture, linen, and other surfaces scratched up simply because their cats felt like sharpening their claws on whatever surface was handy. A good way to avoid this wear and tear on your furniture, draperies, and bed spreads is to invest in a good cat tower.

Cat furniture towers are a great place for cats to play which will discourage them from jumping on your furniture when they are bored or playful. The average cat tower is a tall structure that is perfect for your cat to jump and climb on. They often provide little cubby holes that your cat can curl up and sleep in when they are tired out from all of their playing. Best of all they are covered in material that is perfect for scratching so your cats will spend their time sharpening their claws on the new tower rather than clawing your furniture to shreds.

Cat towers come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes so you do not have to worry about buying something that is too big or too small. There are cat furniture towers that are perfect for one cat and some that are designed with two or more cats in mind. They also come in a wide variety of colors and materials so you do not have to worry about settling for something that will clash horribly with your own furniture. These days' cat furniture towers are designed with the cat owners wishes in mind in addition to the cats. Many pet supply retailers now offer cat furniture towers that boast attractive designs that all cat owners would be proud to display out in the open.

Best of all, cat furniture towers are extremely affordable. Even cat furniture towers that are tall, elaborate, and meant for multiple cats are reasonably priced. Cat owners do not have to worry about breaking their budget just to save their furniture. Also, since cat furniture towers are reasonably priced, they can be replaced as often as necessary without causing financial hardship to the cat owner. Even though cat furniture towers are made to last and are much more durable than most people realize they will, eventually, start looking a bit threadbare. Thanks to the great prices charged by most retailers online and off-line cat furniture towers can easily be replaced with newer, fresher, looking towers whenever the owner feels the need.

To learn more about Cat Furniture Towers check out BargainsDelivered.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bob_Schmitt

Does Your Cat Have the Terrible Two's?

2008-05-02T06:28:00.000-07:00

By Diane Palmer
Does your cat remind you of the "terrible two's"? Having a hissy fit, when they don't get their own way?

My cat was just like that. Although I loved her dearly, she had some pretty bad habits, that I let her get away with, because I didn't want to take the time to really train her.

Finally it came to the point, where my family wanted the cat to go, as she was using my countertop as a batting cage!

When we all left for the day, my cat, would climb onto the chair, then onto the kitchen counter, and then take her paw and quickly send anything and everything on the counter flying across the room. Butter dish, odds and ends dish, bread basket, cutlery. She was not happy until all the counter was empty, and then we would find her laying flat out on the counter with all this mess on the floor.

I am not sure where or how she developed this habit, whether she was mad at us for something, or what, but it had to stop.

I did some reading, and gathering some ideas, and tried the simplist ones first, and they worked. In the morning, I sprinkled a small amount of pepper on the counter.. that seemed to put her off right away. She quickly linked sneezing with the countertop and stopped. Slowely I stopped sprinkling the pepper and things were fine.

In the end, we got a second cat, that was more active than her, and she enjoyed the company. I really do think she was bored and by gaining this second cat we all now live in harmony, as these two cats tire each other out during the day when we are not there.

Now I am not saying, you have to get a second cat, but for us that worked, but the pepper worked as well, there are many simple ideas, that you can try, to save your cat and your house, give them a try before you do anything drastic!

http://www.isyourcatbad.weebly.com click here for more ideas for saving your cat and your home. Article and website by Diane Palmer

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Diane_Palmer

Heal Ear Infections and Kill Dreaded Ear Mites with this Proven Holistic Formula

2008-05-02T05:48:00.000-07:00

By Kim Cierech

I have been a canine stylist for over 10 years. The most common question I get asked by my human clients is, "How can I stop my dog from getting ear infections?" Not too long ago, other then placing cotton in their ears during maintenance baths, I didn't know.

My friends dog Ace was plagued with ear infections and she agreed to allow me to test some holistic products on him. I bought a product that's base was made from tea tree oil. I was familiar with tea tree oil because I bathe many of my canine clients with a tea tree oil shampoo, when their skin is dry or if they are suffering with a minor skin irritation.

When the product arrived, we put 7 drops in each of Ace's ears and massaged them a few seconds. This is a little more then the recommended dose, but Ace is a very huge dog. For the next 7 days my friend repeated the 7 drops in each ear for 3 times a day. Incredibly we had hit pay dirt. From the very first application she noticed that Ace wasn't digging and scratching at his ears, which was allowing the healing process to begin. It has been over 8 months and he has not suffered any ear infections to date.

I have recommended this product to several of my clients who are very happy to report that they have had similar results. I'm thrilled because now I can recommend a holistic product that I know works. My clients are happy because they have just saved themselves an expensive trip to the vets.

I wasn't aware at the time but this product is also recommended for cats. I am not a cat owner and didn't really notice if it could be used on both, at the time when we were trying to heal Ace. I'm happy to report that it can be used on felines and add a special bonus that it can also kill ear mites. If you are the owner of a cat who is plagued with ear infections or those dreaded ear mites, I have written a very small web site that includes all of the holistic ingredients of the formula and where you can purchase this product.

Kim enjoys studying numerology, parapsychology and experimenting with herbal remedies. She has worked as a canine stylist for over 10 years. http://holisticdogandcat.blogspot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kim_Cierech

Getting a Cat - First Things First

2008-04-26T22:11:00.000-07:00

By Colin Hogue

KITTEN OR CAT?

There is nothing more adorable, sweet, or entertaining as a kitten. However, depending on your needs and your home (other family members and other pets), you may for whatever reason decide to get an adult cat. Whether it is a kitten or an adult cat that you choose, please keep in mind that there are wonderful companions at every animal shelter just waiting to become a part of your life and the lives of those around you. Please consider visiting your shelter to save a life while also enriching yours.

A WORD BEFORE WE GO ON

Over the course of 40 years, I have been learning more and more about holistic medications and treatments and holistic preventive health care for myself, and therefore, over a period of time, I have come to have the same concerns and considerations for my furry friends as well. I haven't been sorry. I am now living with the oldest - and sweetest! - cat I've ever had or known. That being said, some of my recommendations may sound careless or neglectful to the onlooker who hasn't researched the issues, but know that I did not arrive at these ideas because they are easier, simpler, or cheaper for me nor am I neglectful in any way. I like to read and know about any health issues, medications, nutrition, or treatments out there - for me or my pets - and therefore, anything that I suggest here has been researched. All of it is a matter of personal choice, of course, but I will share what I know and why I have made the choices I've made.

BEFORE YOU ADOPT OR BUY

You will need a litter box for each cat in your household. Purchase litter. Clay, unscented litter is the healthiest for you and your pet. Plan on just dumping the entire litter box and lining it with several layers of fresh newspaper (Sundays are the perfect schedule for this task since the Sunday newspaper will still be in your home and ready for recycling) each week. I don't like the idea of "scoopable" or "clumpable" litter. Think about this for a moment. It may be easier for us humans to just keep reusing litter, but how healthy is it for your feline companion whose health and well-being has been entrusted to you? What kind of bacteria is lurking in the litter box week after week after week. Clay litter - even when changed weekly - is cheaper and safer for your pet. End of story.

Get some dry and wet canned food for your companion. Just start with a good brand right off. Pay particular attention to ASH content, MAGNESIUM content, and PHOSPHORUS. Consider your cats urinary tract health and kidney health before it becomes an issue. Choose foods that say "urinary tract health" or "urinary tract maintenance" or just choose a slightly more expensive brand, and you will find lower ash and lower magnesium. Most of these more expensive brands do not even contain phosphorus or any fillers. (If you had been feeding your pet no-filler foods during the China wheat gluten pet food scare, you know what I'm talking about. No fillers, and there was no need for concern.) Free feed (leave an unlimited supply out at all times) your companion the dry food and provide canned food at least once in the morning and once at night. This provides a good balance of carbs so that you can also prevent early onset diabetes. Again, what is the old saying? "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." As a personal aside, I feed my senior cat (15 years now and no known disease!) Wellness brand and Petguard brand foods. I get Wellness dry food and Petguard wet food. I have fed her Wellness canned food; however, she seems to prefer Petguard wet food. I cannot find the Petguard dry food in my area, but My Precious Girl is perfectly content with her Wellness dry so I'm satisfied with the choices that I have made for her.

If you have chosen a kitten, make certain to get foods specially formulated for kittens for the first one year of your companion's life. Then, after one year, you can switch to adult food.

Make sure you have dedicated bowls and dishes/plates - preferably unbreakable - for your new companion to eat dry food out of, have access to fresh water, and eat canned food from (for this, I prefer a flat dish). A weighted water bowl never hurts, either.

KITTEN- AND CAT -PROOFING YOUR HOME

Kitten-proof your home before you go get one. In fact, all of what I'm about to say here should really be applied to any pet. Make sure that your blind-pulls are up higher than Ms. Kitty can jump (and they can jump really high) to prevent accidental hanging of your new companion. Make sure that your cabinets are secured and cannot be opened when bumped into. Make sure that no chemicals or poisons of any kind - that includes plants, too, and even some foods! - are out of reach.

If you are having a problem with bugs of any kind in your home, and you have turned to the services of an exterminator or are using a spray or bombs in your home, please make sure that your bug problem is taken care of prior to bringing a new companion into your home. Chemicals of any kind are not safe for anyone or anything. Better to be safe than sorry. Once your bug problem is taken care of, and you have sent your exterminator packing, clean every baseboard, crevice, and any other common area in your home or outdoors (enclosed patio or balcony) thoroughly in an attempt to remove any unsafe chemicals and to reduce Ms. Kitty's exposure.

Get your friend a nice kitty bed, even if you plan to have your new companion sleep with you. You may be surprised at where you will find your friend sleeping. It is nice to offer at least one sensible option.

You may want to get some safe toys for your new companion, perhaps even a scratching post. A word on scratching posts: Did you know that some cats are vertical scratchers and some cats are horizontal scratchers? If you catch your kitty sharpening its nails somewhere in your home, pay attention to what it was using -- was it the arm of the sofa (from a standing position) or was it your carpeting? If it was the arm of the sofa, and your kitty was standing while scratching, go get a vertical scratching post. If it was the carpeting that kitty was using, go get a horizontal strip for your kitty's use.

YOUR OTHER CATS AT HOME

If you already have another cat at home, make sure that your new kitten or cat comes with proof of a negative feline leukemia test and first shots, at least. Also, be certain that it is free of fleas and has either been "wormed" or has had a recent stool sample test negative for intestinal parasites. So very important! Because even though you will purchase another litter box if bringing in a new cat to your household that already has a cat, the cats will inevitably crossover when it comes to litter boxes - in the beginning, at least, and if the new cat has intestinal parasites, your other pets will become infected. That applies to your canine companions as well - - intestinal parasites are contagious by way of feces - - and if you have a dog in your home who likes to visit the kitty box occasionally, your dog is at risk as well.

YOUR DOG(S) AT HOME

I just mentioned the litter box and parasite concern in the above paragraph so that is covered.

Otherwise, it is super simple - from a health standpoint - to bring a cat into the home that has a dog or dogs and nothing else because very few diseases or health risks are transferable between cats and dogs. As I mentioned, fleas and ticks, of course, would be considerations. Fleas and ticks do not discriminate, and neither do intestinal parasites. So, out of respect and concern for your pets who already share your home, make sure that your new companion is pest-free and get that stool sample tested before bringing in your new companion.

Make sure that your kitten or cat has a private place - out of reach of the dog(s) - where he or she can eat and have access to fresh food and water without the dog(s) scarfing everything up when you and Ms. Kitty are not looking. I've been through this, and believe me, it is no fun! Not only will you quite possibly have a dog with gastric problems due to a sudden dietary change, but you will run out of your kitty's food so much faster. If you are like me and feeding a better brand of food, it is especially exasperating because it costs a lot more to feed a dog and your feline companion a better brand of cat food!

A WORD ABOUT DOGS AND CATS WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD

A dog can live on cat food, but a cat cannot live on dog food. If your cat is sharing a home with a dog and seems to prefer the dog food over his/her own cat food, don't laugh too much about this because a cat needs TAURINE which is in cat food but not generally in dog food.

Note: Recent research indicates that dogs' hearts benefit from TAURINE; therefore, some more advanced and progressive makers of dog food are now adding it to their dog foods; however, there is a certain amount of TAURINE required for your cat's diet. So, make sure that Ms. Kitty has a healthy cat food that it enjoys. Your cat's eyesight depends upon it. Your cat can go blind due to a TAURINE deficiency.

Check out my blog for feline health issues and tips for more info.

Interested in canine health issues and tips? I've got a blog for that too.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Colin_Hogue

Cat Behaviors - Tips For A Happy Cat And A Happy Home

2008-04-21T06:11:00.000-07:00

By Paul Proctor

Considering getting a cat for a pet? Adopting a stray can be a good option if you keep a few things in mind. Stray cats can present unusual and sometimes difficult problems to those who adopt them. Cat behaviors are often misunderstood. You should take care and have a great deal of understanding if you want to turn a feral cat into a content house cat.

There are many ways a cat can easily adjust to you. The adoption process usually begins when a cat gives its consent by starting to interact with you. One way of earning his trust is by giving him food. When he takes it you will know that you are slowly tearing down his barriers. Through patience and perseverance you will be rewarded by his trust.

Let's face it. Some cat behaviors are problems when these pets live in our homes. Cat scratching, territorial urine spraying and the hunting instinct tend to cause the most problems. Luckily for us and our feline friends, there are solutions that help keep both kitty and kitty owner happy.

A cat's need to scratch can damage furniture and walls, so it's a good idea to get some kind of of scratching post. These can range from simple cardboard varieties to larger carpeted ones. A kitty jungle-gym will let your cat not only scratch but have a place to climb about on and sleep in.

If you have a male pet cat, it would be crucial for you to have him neutered. Otherwise you will experienced having his urine sprayed all over your place to mark his territory. This will also be good for him because it will discouraged fight with other male of the same specie.

All cats feel the need hunt. This cat behaviour is particularly strong in stray cats as it is the way they have survived up until their adoption. Don't be alarmed if your cat brings the body of a small woodland creature to your doorstep. Praising, instead of reproaching the cat for it's actions, will go a long way in keeping your cat happy.

Avoiding a resolution to such cat behaviors will result in a bad relationship between you and your feline. If you prevent your feline from hunting, this will most assuredly get on your nerves since cats need a way in which to channel their energy. If you love your furnishings at all you must attend to their need to scratch and spray. This is the reason these fundamental cat behaviors are beneficial to learn; particularly when you adopt strays.

New cats in a home may exhibit one or more of many unwanted cat behaviors. The most common problems owners have are cat scratching, spraying and hunting. Cats that scratch furniture or other possessions can often be redirected to a scratching post. A male cat that sprays to mark his territory will need to be neutered to solve the problem. Also, a cat's natural hunting instinct can be redirected towards any of the wide variety of toys available, or even homemade ones. Cat behaviour may be perplexing to a new owner, but can be efficiently handled, creating a more positive environment for both you and your cat.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Proctor

Cat Spraying A Common Annoyance

2008-04-21T06:10:00.000-07:00

By Paul Proctor

'Cat spraying' is when a domestic cat will soil its house to mark its territory by backing into furniture or any household item and release a pungent spray. Approximately 40% of all soiling complaints are made of such instances. Females cats will sometimes do it when they are in heat, but generally it is mostly un-neutured male tom cats.

Cats spray for a variety of reasons. They spray during territorial disputes, when they are aware of another cat in heat, when stressed and often after fights with other cats. So the cats, normally solitary creatures, mark their territory as a way to reduce conflicts with other cats in the area. Mostly cats will spray outside, but if there are conflicts within the home, they will spray inside as well.

When a cat "sprays" an object, the spray releases a rancid odor most akin to ammonia. The smell may encourage the cat to spray again, so it is importantly to remove the smell rapidly and completely. When removing the smell, clean the object thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser, one specially designed to remove bad odors. Avoid cleansers that contain ammonia: they will only make the smell worse!

So, how does one prevent this annoying habit? Can it be prevented from happening in the first place?Neutering a tom will significantly reduce the occurrence of cat spraying. Identifying conflicts within the home with the help of a cat whisperer, or someone attuned to cat psychology, can help resolve or minimize the problem. If a cat is spraying in one location, you can arrange furniture or objects around to make them less appealing to spray. Outside the home, you made need to keep your cat inside until conflicts are resolved with neighborhood cats.

Cat spraying cannot be cured by punishment. A stressed cat may even spray more often, and hitting your cat will simply encourage fear, not obedience. Nor will taking your cat to the sprayed area for punishment be an effective deterrent.

Even with taking all the precautions, cat spraying will be difficult to eliminate completely but can be easily be controlled and minimized. It is just an occurrence that comes along with the responsibility and pleasure of owning a feline friend.

The problem of 'cat spraying' is when a domestic cat will soil its house to mark its territory by backing into furniture or any household item and release a pungent spray. Approximately 40% of all soiling complaints are made of such instances. Females cats will sometimes do it when they are in heat, but generally it is mostly un-neutered male tom cats. Employing a cat whisperer who understands cat psychology to come into your home can also lessen the problem. Don't ever try to punish your cat by bringing him into the area and hitting him. This will lead your cat to be fearful of you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Proctor

Cat Beds - Sleeping in Comfort

2008-04-21T06:09:00.000-07:00

By Jennifer A Johnson

Humans love a comfortable bed to sleep so do animals especially cats. Cats spend most of their time curling up and sleep. If you are fed up of your cat sleeping in your couch or your bed and leaving hair on your furniture or you want to give your cat a space of its own, a cat bed is your best option. In purchasing a bed for your cat, there are things that you should consider.

Size of your cat is important consideration. They need a little room to stretch and be comfortable but not too big, to make them feel not secure. Measure your cat from head to tail and give a few inches of allowance.

Consider the comfort of the type of bed that you choose for your cat. There are tons of fantastic options for you to choose from. It comes with different forms and structures. Choose that ones that are washable or at least has a removable and washable cover. You do not want your pet to sleep in a stinky bed. Cats are clean animals and like their place to be clean as well. Cleaned cat beds will help prevent parasites, allergens and odors.

A cat bed that has a fleece cushion material will keep your cat warm and comfortable. There are also cat beds that has thermal cushion that would be comfortable for your cat especially during winter. Make sure that is made of durable materials to prevent it from being scratched easily or torn.

Beds for cats shield them from winter and protect them from floor which is cold. Consider putting it near the window or porch. Having a cat bed will prevent your cat from sleeping in your couch or bed. It will give your pet a space of their own wherein they will not be disturb and will have your house a more organized look.

Find more information on Cat Beds

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_A_Johnson

Names For Kittens - 15 Ways to Choose the Perfect Name

2008-04-21T06:08:00.000-07:00

By Jenny Jackson

Choosing a name for your beautiful new kitten or cat can be difficult - especially if you want an interesting name or one that has particular meaning.

Try to avoid choosing a long name, as it is likely to be abbreviated. Consider how the name would be shortened and whether you like the shortened form.

It is also important to consider whether you will be comfortable calling out the name, or if not you, other members of the household.

There are lots of ways to find great names. The following categories will get you thinking creatively:

1. Appearance

Looking at your kittens coloring or coat pattern, what words come to mind? Grey cats might suggest Smokey or Misty. Calico cats might suggest Patchwork or Cookie.

2. Books and Film

Who are your favorite book or movie characters? Who are your favorite authors? Names like Sherlock or Agatha may appeal if you like mysteries. Dickens or Bronte? Harry or Hermione? If you like older films, maybe Groucho or Harpo. You could surely create a huge list of possibilities here.

3. Cartoons

Cartoon cats to consider are Tom, Sylvester or Garfield. Disney and Dreamworks films offer a plethora of character names...Ariel, Bambi, Aladdin, Shrek, Mulan, Woody, Buzz.

4. Gods/Goddesses

Some examples are Aurora, Zeus, Aphrodite, Venus, Mercury and Apollo.

5. Philosophers

Plato, Socrates, Aristotle, Descartes, Nietzsche, Voltaire...

6. Musicians

Classical music lovers might like Mozart, Strauss, Beethoven, Brahms, Bach, Vivaldi, Chopin or Puccini. Modern music lovers might like Elvis, Zeppelin, Dylan, Joplin, Madonna or Bowie.

7. Pairs

If you are naming a pair of kittens, consider famous couples or duos such as Sonny and Cher, Oscar and Lucinda, Simon and Garfunkle, Napoleon and Josephine, Torville and Dean, Rain and Bow, Adam and Eve, Fish and Chips, Salt and Vinegar, Abbott and Costello.

8. Sport

Sport stars offer lots of name possibilities. If you're into tennis, you might like Sampras, McEnroe, Agassi, Stefi or Martina. Boxing fans might like Ali or Hurricane. Soccer enthusiasts might like Beckham or Pele.

9. Fashion

Fashion designers and models provide good possibilities for your kitten's name. Dior, Chanel, Coco, Armani, Tyra, Claudia, Giselle, Prada, Hugo, Gucci, Cartier, Fendi, Dolce, Tiffany, Zegna, Ray Bands, Hermes, Lacroix, Givenchy, Hermes.

10. Food

The possibilities are endless. For sweets, there is Baci, Sugar, Toffee, Fudge, Choc and Biscuit. Herbs and spices are another helpful category - Basil, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Sage, Ginger, Pepper, Saffron and Vanilla.

11. Places

What's your favorite city or town? Sydney, Melbourne, Paris, Milan, London, Aspen, Cairo, China, Vienna, Congo, Giza, Kashmir, Reno.

12. Historical

Mythology, politics and science could give you some great ideas, like Nightingale, Avalon, Aztec, Camelot, Delilah, Evita, Godiva, Sheeba, Einstein, Freud and Edison.

13. Titles

Is your kitten rather regal? Countess, Duchess, Fraulein, Senorita, Dame, Madam, Duke, Earl, Baron, Viscount, Queen, Princess, Prince, Lady to name a few.

14. Nature

Inspiration can come from gems, flowers, trees, animals and weather. Bamboo, Amber, Crystal, Blossom, Bonsai, Buttercup, Coral, Cosmic, Tempest, Daisy, Firefly, Cougar, Nimbus, Nova and Opal.

15. Alcohol

Wines, spirits and beers offer lots of inspiration...Amaretto, Baccardi, Vodka, Whisky, Brandy, Champagne, Daiquiri, Kahlua, Madeira, Margarita, Moet, Moonshine and Shiraz.

If you have a pet or family related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, as long as the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and link to http://www.great-pictures-of-cats.com which features photo galleries of beautiful cats. You'll find cute kittens, different breeds and funny cat videos.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jenny_Jackson

Heartworm Disease in Domestic Cats

2008-04-21T06:07:00.000-07:00

By Kadirvelu Senthilkumar

Heartworm in cat is caused by Dirofilaria immitis is another vector borne helminthes infection of Zoonotic significance. The adults remain in the right ventricle, pulmonary artery and vena cava. Microfilaria can be detected in any tissue particularly blood, kidneys and lungs. Mortality due to heartworm disease is rare.

Incidence
Dirofilariasis is widespread in tropical/subtropical countries and temperate areas, which favor rapid breeding of fly population. The heartworm in cats is noticeable among the 3-6 years old ones.

Causes
Dirlofilaria immitis is a long slender roundworm measuring about 300 mm in length, which can be readily recognized in right ventricle of heart, pulmonary artery and vena cava and occasionally in lungs in heavy infections.

Microfilaria measuring about 286-349 millimicrons in length can also be identified in both dry and wet blood smears in clinically affected animals. Periodicity of microfilaria particularly at nighttime has been reported.

Transmission
The life cycle of heartworm in cat is indirect. In hot and humid climate, the disease is transmitted through bite of mosquitoes and lice where the microfilaria develops into infective stage.

Clinical Signs
No clinical have been reported during the life and the disease usually occurs as in apparent infection. Other signs include-

* Occasional coughing

* Asthma-like symptoms

* Anorexia

* Lethargy

* Vomiting

* Increased respiratory effort

Pathology
The parasites are generally noticed at necropsy as an incidental finding. Similarly microfilariae are also observed during routine screening of blood smears of felids having apparently normal health in endemic areas.

In heavy infection of heartworm disease, the pulmonary artery and vena cava may be occluded with parasites causing mechanical obstruction, passive hyperaemia and occasional initial damage.

Diagnosis
The disease in the domestic cats is usually detected on necropsy examination. The disease can also be diagnosed by examination of blood smears and demonstration of characteristic microfilaria. Confirmative diagnosis can be performed with the help of X-rays. The heartworm disease in domestic cats should be differentiated from Feline asthma and other pulmonary diseases.

Treatment
In endemic areas of heartworm disease, Diethyl carbamazine citrate (3mg/kg) may be tried after discussing with your vet. The effectiveness of acetarasamide for adulticidal action and levamisole and ivermectin (24 ug/kg) for antimicrobial action is yet to be assessed perfectly.

Prevention and control
Apart from vigorous fly and lice control measures, periodic treatment followed by serological monitoring and blood screening for microfilaria will be helpful in controlling heartworm in domestic cats in endemic areas.

Kadirvelu Senthilkumar is a regular contributor to Cat Health Care, a section of Cat Health Care Guide, a site focusing on conventional and natural treatments of feline health concerns.

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There's Nothing Like A Cute Cat

2008-04-21T06:05:00.000-07:00

By Michelle Bery

There comes a time in everyone’s home when it must be decided if it’s going to be a home with a pet or a home without. This is an easier decision for some than it is for others; there are some of us who grew up in a home that was never without a dog or cat; there are others of us who did not have a pet growing up and are eager to fulfill this childhood dream in adulthood. Ultimately, pet ownership is a choice only your family can make, as is the type of pet you choose - for dog lovers, a friendly pooch; for feline lovers, a cute cat.

But let’s face it; a cute cat is subjective. Cats come in a variety of breeds – in all sizes, colors, hair lengths, and personalities. A cute cat for one person may be a sparkly eyed Burmese; for another a sleek Siamese. When choosing a cute cat, it is most important to take into consideration your particular needs as a cat owner. If you are someone who enjoys company from your pet, then you may want to find a cute cat that’s friendly and people-oriented. If you are a busy professional who is content to see your cat over a meal, then there are number of independent-minded cats that like their personal space.

When choosing a cute cat for your family it is also important to be mindful of the amount of grooming that each particular cat breed requires. Longer-haired cats need frequent grooming to keep their matting at bay; shorter-haired cats need far less grooming and may be best for busier households or for those who have allergies. Before purchasing any cat, however, it is important that you are prepared – not just for the grooming but for the space considerations, need for a litter box, diet and nutrition, and veterinary needs. It is essential that if you are going to be a cat owner that you are a responsible one.

Whether as a purchase for yourself or a wonderful gift for someone you love, a cute cat will brighten your world and change your home forever.

For easy to understand, in depth information about cute cat visit our ezGuide 2 Cats.

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Does My Cat Have Draws?

2008-04-16T04:02:00.000-07:00

By Bonnie Feltz

Several years ago I got my cat tailer. He is a wonderful cat. I wish I had a training course for his problem with using the litter box. He used the living room several times for this purpose. I used enough bad smelling things to stop that behavior. I really want to tell you a story about Tailer that was very funny. When he was younger and smaller. He could fit into many small spaces. One day my dad said to me where is the cat? Not knowing where he might be I said I do not know but I will look for him. I went in the bedroom and called I heard a small cry. I looked under the bed and behind the curtain. No Tailer. I still heard a faint meow. It was very muffled. I thought a moment and said to myself my dad is hard of hearing so maybe just maybe. I pulled opened the drawer of his chest of drawers and what did I see but our cat at the bottom of the drawer. I walked out of the bedroom with the cat right behind me. I told my dad what happened. He was surprised at what had happened. My dad past away a few years ago but I still have that crazy cat Tailer. He means the world to me.

I wanted to mention how important it is to have a good relationship with your cat. Training your cat is a fantastic way to enrich your cat's life with the family.

- It builds a strong rapport between your family and your cat
- Because training underlines your authority (your cat has to do what you want to get what he wants), it helps to curb dominant behavior
- It keeps your cat's mind active and stimulated
- It's great interactive play, and teaches good social skills
- Anxious and highly-strung cats are reassured and soothed by the repetition and routine of training Understanding and developing a good relationship is important to making your cat feel a special part of the family.

To learn how to train your cat or dog. At http://www.petspetsgreat.com we can give tips on how to teach your pet tricks. Help with problem behavior and much more

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Should You Declaw Your Cat?

2008-04-15T04:25:00.000-07:00

By Barb Jensen

Most cat experts will say definitely not. Declawing is a cruel and unnecessary procedure.

Declawing (onychectomy) is more than just removing the claws. The procedure (which is extremely painful) involves amputating part of the toe.

After declawing a cat will have very sore, painful, and possibly swollen paws for up to two weeks. Her paws will have to be wrapped for several days following surgery. Declawing using laser surgery means a less painful recovery, but not all vets are skilled in the techniques of laser surgery.

You will have to use shredded newspaper in her litter box as regular kitty litter will irritate her paws and might even cause an infection. There have been some reports of cats not using their litter box even after their paws are healed. This is thought to be because they associate the pain in their paws with digging in the litter box.

Your cat call not be able to go outside. She has no way of defending herself against other cats or dogs, nor can she climb a tree to escape danger. Also without her claws to defend herself, she may turn to biting to defend herself. Cat bites are more serious than scratches.

One option to declawing is flexor tendonectomy. With this the vet will cut the tendons that she uses to extend her claws, making her claws retracted permanently. The down side of this is that you will have to trim your cat's claws every week or two or they will become ingrown.

If the only reason you want to declaw your cat is so she doesn't claw the furniture, there are methods to teach your cat to use a scratching post.

If you are still bound and determined to have a declawed cat, get one that has already been declawed. Check with the local animal shelters. If they don't have any declawed cats at the moment, tell them you are interested in getting one and ask them to let you know when one comes available. Also put the word out to local vets you are looking for a declawed cat.

Barb Jensen lives in upstate New York with her two cats. http://freewebs.com/feline123

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Beds For Cats

2008-04-15T04:10:00.000-07:00

By Charley Hwang

Beds do not strike us as something essential for our pets sometimes, for some of us have the idea that they can sleep on any surface. However, for dogs, we tend to buy them a soft, warm basket or something that they can sleep in. Majority of the dogs will then claim the bed as a sleeping spot. On the other hands, cats do not really need a certain place to sleep. It will in fact, sleep at any place it feels like, anytime, anywhere.

Cats are hard to train to sleep in one specific spot. They will still end up sleeping in various places in your house. Furniture such as chairs, tables, sofas, or floor or any cozy nook they can curl up in and fall asleep without disturbance.

Although your pet cat likes sleeping on your couch or steps, it does not mean that it wouldn’t appreciate a nice warm bed. You can still go ahead and get your cat a bed, and perhaps it will take interest in it and somehow, enjoy sleeping in it. Although it won’t be sleeping in the bed every night, you’ll still know that the bed will become one of the many sleeping places it will visit, and cats enjoy being territorial, and owning a new bed will bring them satisfaction.

If you have seen cat trees, it is your best choice of a cat bed for your pet. It is a tall stand with a perch built at the top, where your cat can climb up onto it and sleep while everyone is below it, such as dogs that cats naturally fear. You can even connect the perch to a window sill, and your cat can nap as well as look out the window at the activities that goes on outside.

Cats spend a lot of time sleeping, and according to research, they actually spend up to two thirds of their life sleeping!! Now, that is a sound reason to get your cat a comfortable bed, or make its favourite napping spots as comfortable as you can. Some choices include round and furry cuddle-type beds, or bouncy cushions that create a round circle where your cat can snuggle in.

Cleanliness and hygiene is again the most important thing to look out for when getting your cat a bed. No matter what bed you decided to get, make sure that it has a removable cover that you can take out and wash regularly. Cats, like dogs, will attract bugs such as fleas, and these pests can make a home out of any fabric, especially if your cat lies there often. So make sure you remember to wash your cat’s bed often, and the other spots your cat sleep in as well to guarantee a flea-free home, one that you and your cat will both enjoy. See below for more information about Beds For Cats.

For more information on Cat Beds or visit http://www.siamesecatsinfo.com/should-you-buy-a-bed-for-your-cat/, a popular website that offers information on Cats, Cats Breeding, and Cats Behavior. Please leave the links intact if you wish to reprint this article. Thanks.

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Your Cat's Bed - The Four Qualities That Will Get Your Cat a Good Night's Sleep

2008-04-14T07:06:00.000-07:00

By Anne Moss

Cat beds are can come in many decorative shapes and colors. Jungle pattern velvet or hot pink frills, these beds are often fashion statements more than anything else, leaving cat owners disappointed when their precious feline declines the expensive cat bed and goes napping someplace else. And with a cat, napping is more than just a nap too, as felines can spend up to 18 hours a day sound asleep.

When shopping for a cat bed, it's important to look beyond the color and how well the cat bed fits into your room decor. You should always look for the following qualities -

Size of a Cat Bed

Make sure the bed is large enough for your cat. Some cats are large than others and may require a size closer to that of a dog. Also, if you have two or more cats that love snuggling up to each other when sleeping, an extra large pet bed may be a good idea. For some cats, the idea of sleeping too close to another feline is unthinkable, so don't expect to crowd in more than one cat into a single bed, unless they're used to sleeping alongside each other.

Softness and Texture

Most cats prefer a soft surface to curl up into when they take their nap. Softer is often better, and some cat beds offer extra thick mattresses for that reason.

Structure of a Cat Bed

Your cat needs to feel safe when going to bed. Many cat beds come with an enclosed space above the mattress, which could be suitable for some cats. Another option if a donut shaped bed, with a raised area around the sleeping cushion. Depending on how high above the floor you position your cat bed, an open donut might be a better alternative for some cats. As with anything else, individual cats may have their own unique preferences.

The Temperature

Cats prefer warm places most time of the year, which is why most cat beds come with plush warm covers. Some of them even include heating pads, microwavable or electricity driven, for therapeutic heating qualities. These can work wonders for aging cats or those prone to arthritis. Keep in mind that during summer months, in hot areas, a cat bed can get too warm. Your cat will usually let you know when that is the case, by opting to sleep in cooler places.

Copyright©Meowhoo.com 2008 - All Rights Reserved

This article may be re-published on sites, provided that all links in the article and resource box are included and remain active.

Anne Moss is a cat behaviorist and a member of the Cat Writers Association. She is the owner and editor of Meowhoo.com Cat Directory, where you can find the best places to shop for cat beds. For questions or comments, feel free to reach Anne through the Cat Forums, where thousands of cat lovers join to discuss cats and cat care.

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Why Is My Cat Attacking Me?

2008-04-14T06:36:00.000-07:00

By Jenny Jackson

Cat aggression towards owners is a common problem and can be very distressing, not to mention painful! There are a range of reasons why your cat might be doing this. If you can identify the cause, then a solution is more likely to work.

Pain

If your cat has recently become aggressive, he or she may be in pain. No doubt you are pretty grumpy when you have a headache or toothache, and cats can experience these things too. If your cat has a condition like osteoarthritis, it may be more uncomfortable later in the day, and this may be when she becomes aggressive.

If your cat is fairly young, he or she may actually be playing with you. Kittens are most likely to play fight. Theories suggest that it helps kittens to strengthen their muscles, develop eye-muscle coordination and learn gentle social play. As the kittens get older, the amount of play aggression increases and gets rougher, eventually leading to the dispersion of the litter. Owners often find young cats sneaking up, biting and ambushing passing ankles instead.

You will need to redirect the cat's behavior towards inanimate objects instead of you through active play with toys that move. When the cat becomes aggressive, a squirt of water or startle noise can help them learn not to attack you. You might consider introducing another cat of about the same age so that the play occurs between the cats instead of involving you.

Predatory aggression

The instinct to hunt is triggered by the sight or sound of moving prey. Hunting behaviors are instinctive so eliminating them is not possible. They can, however, be directed into acceptable outlets. Encourage active play with moving toys and direct the behavior toward objects that can withstand claws and teeth. If your cat is allowed outside, it can expend some energy hunting insects instead of you.

Redirected aggression

When a cat becomes upset, it would normally direct the aggression toward the source, however, if the source is not accessible, the cat may redirect the aggression towards something closer such as you, a dog or another cat. Unfortunately, the association between a victim and a stressful event can stick for a long time, so that every time the cat is around the victim, it is reminded of the incident and may attack again.

Prevention can be easier than cure. Don't try to calm or handle an upset cat. There are times, however, when this is impossible. The most common solution is long-term separation of the cat from its target, but this can take a long time. Alternatively, your vet can prescribe anti-anxiety medications that you can combine with gradual reintroduction and rewards. If the victim is a cat that has become excessively fearful of the aggressive cat, it can also be treated to reduce its fear and increase its boldness.

Maternal aggression

Mother cats with young kittens are naturally protective of their young. Hormonally-influenced aggression is strongest during the first week after birth and gradually diminishes as the kittens get older. This is normal behavior. If you need to handle the kittens, try to keep a kitten between you and the mother cat. It is unlikely that the new mother will go over a kitten to attack you.

If you have an ongoing problem with cat aggression, it is best to speak with your vet to discuss various behavioral solutions. Medication is usually only for extreme cases, but can be helpful until behavioral measures are working.

You are welcome to reproduce this article on your pet or family related web site, as long as you reproduce the article in full, including this resource box and link to http://www.great-pictures-of-cats.com which features photo and video galleries of beautiful cats. You'll find cute kittens, different breeds and funny cat videos.

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How To Train Your Cat

2008-04-11T20:55:00.000-07:00

Cats are incredible pets with a unique style all their own. If you have chosen a cat as a pet you probably already understand that discipling and training them requires special effort. You'll need to some extent to understand and adapt to your pet's unique personality traits.

Most cat owners realistically are not looking for a circus cat ready to jump through hoops. They'll be satisfied if the litter box is used well and the furnishings are left intact.

Accordingly, it is good to realize that cats learn through experience. This may require an owner to be patient, in order to build a pattern of cause and effect. This means that if they experience a good thing they are more likely to repeat it. Also, the opposite is true if the encounter was not pleasant. So whatever there's good behavior (like clawing the pet scratching post instead of your furniture), you'll want to reinforce that with a good reward.

Whether it's good or bad behavior, your cat will learn it by this method of immediate response. Delaying a reward or punishment will only confuse her. For example, if a cat is used to being fed every time it pesters you, that will reinforce the behavior. So it is important to evaluate your actions accordingly.

Training a cat to use the litter box is something that must commence when they are young. Keep in mind that cats do enjoy a clean litter box. You need to do your share to make it a pleasant experience. It has been noted that if the box isn't cleaned regularly, but the rest of the house is cleaned, then your pet may head for the clean areas away from its box, such as the edge of a lovely rug!

With time and careful attention you will come to realize that your pet's independent nature still allows a wide variety of moods, which can be either aggressive or playful. A cat will normally enjoy some playful interaction, however it can change its mind swiftly and decide it's had enough. But as a cat owner you already know that, and are just learning to go with the flow!

Eric Hartwell oversees "The World's Best Homepage" intended to be a user-generated resource where YOUR opinion counts. Anybody can contribute and all are welcomed. Visit us to read, comment upon or share opinions on pets, cat and dog care and animal health and visit our associated site articles for free.

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Painlessly Groom Your Cat

2008-04-11T20:54:00.000-07:00

It may appear at first that cats do a perfectly good job of grooming themselves. However, if we take the time to brush their fur we can do a lot to help them, and also aid promote their fine health, by aiding their blood circulation and by cleaning up any hair, that they may end up swallowing.

Begin combing your cat while it's a kitten so it'll become used to the grooming. Use a loving tone and reward your pet with a treat to keep the grooming as enjoyable as it can be.

Always use a soft comb and brush in the direction of the hair growth so as to avoid irritating your cat's skin. It is suggested that long-haired cats be combed nearly every day while shorthaired cats can get by with a couple of combings each week.

Take care around the ear area because cats have sensitive ears. Working slowly will help keep the brush from jamming up too quickly and getting you bogged down.

Start clipping your pet's nails while it's still young. Don't use household clippers. Invest in a proper pair of clippers that are shaped for cutting the curve of their nails. Keep sessions short and quick. Do only one paw at a time, and gently press on the inside of the paw to help show the nails.

Then smoothly cut the tip. This is important because cats have a vein in their nail. It might be visible if the nail is not too opaque.

Ears must also be viewed and cleaned and wiped, using a cleaner provided specifically for cats. This will reduce build-up of wax, mites, debris, that may lead to ear problems.

Always remember that grooming your pet also means taking note of any changes in their skin or fur.

Just a few moments each day grooming your pet will not only help maintain its health but will also building a good relationship with you.

Eric Hartwell oversees "The World's Best Homepage" intended to be a user-generated resource where YOUR opinion counts. Anybody can contribute and all are welcomed. Visit us to read, comment upon or share opinions on pets, cat and dog care and animal health and visit our associated site articles for free.

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How to Deal with the Behavior Problems of Cats

2008-04-11T20:53:00.000-07:00

Cats are simply adorable. They are cuddly and cute, and yes, they enjoy receiving so much attention. That is why sometimes, cats develop several annoying and destructive behavior and you should know how to deal with behavior problems of cats.

Cats are animals, and as such do not have enough reasoning to tell and distinguish right from wrong. But you, the cat owner, knows what is good and bad, and so it is your responsibility to help your cat act accordingly. You need to deal with the behavior problems of cats.

Behavior problems of cats are the usual problems cat owners encounter from their cats. Some owners really feel very annoyed by several of their cat's behavioral problems, so they just hire cat trainers for long-term solutions. Attitude problems are very common in cats.

If you have a cat, it is not enough that you shower your pet with utmost attention and care. It is your responsibility to instill in the cat righteous attitudes especially when there are other people living in your house. Being adorable and cute are not enough for the cat to get away from every offense it makes.

Tips for dealing with behavior problems of cats

Here are some practical tips that would help you control the unwanted behavior problems of cats. Take note that cats also need to act nicely especially when there are other people in the house or if there are guests:

* Discipline your cat. This is one way to deal with the behavior problems of cats. You could teach the animal about right and wrong behavior. For example, if you see your cat do a nice thing, pat it gently on the head. Otherwise, push your palm on the cat's face. This would give it the signal that what it just did is not acceptable.

* Do not surprise your cat. Cats hate surprises so to avoid behavior problems of cats avoid surprises. Do not disturb a sleeping cat or suddenly take away food from an eating cat. Doing so would provoke the cat and make it really angry to attack you or anyone.

* Do not ever hit a cat whenever it does nasty things. This is not a good way to deal with behavior problems of cats. Hitting, just like in kids, is not very effective in making cats realize what deed is wrong. Do not ever teach your cat to develop fear of you.

* Make specific cat misbehavior impossible to be accomplished. This is another good way to deal with the behavior problems of cats. For example, if the cat wants to steel food from containers, keep the containers tightly closed and sealed. Also make light objects and figurines in the house out of reach of cats, or place them in a glass cabinet.

* For littering and waste elimination behavior problems of cats, you could invest in cat litter boxes. Cat litter boxes are very ideal in training the cat to urinate or eliminate feces responsibly.

* Take your cat to the vet regularly. That way, you could immediately tell if there is a physiological problem in the cat. Behavior problems of cats may also due to pains. Usually, when cats fall ill, they also tend to misbehave.

* Cats are possessive. They want your sole attention. If there are other pets in the house, your cat might sense that you are not faithful. To remedy this situation, do not let the cat see you care for and nurture other pets.

* Use reward and punishment to deal with behavior problems of cats. To make the cat also behave properly, you could also make use of the reward system. For every good deed you see in the cat, reward it by giving its special cat snack. Whenever the cat does bad acts, punish it by not giving it any cat snack, though you must show the cat that there is cat snack that is supposed to be given to it.

If you have tried the above mentioned tips and found no success do not lose hope, you can still tame your cat and you can have a much more rewarding life with your cat if you only learn a few secrets on cat behavior.

Did you know that you can transform your cat’s behavior with proven techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover how to end the behavior problems of cats visit Solutions to Cat Behavior Problems at All About Pets

Gerry Restrivera writes informative articles on various subjects including How to Deal with the Behavior Problems of Cats. You are allowed to publish this article in its entirety provided that author’s name, bio and website links must remain intact and included with every reproduction.

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Funny Cat Behaviors and What to Do About Them

2008-04-11T20:52:00.001-07:00

Cats sure have interesting ways of expressing themselves. Some are cute, and some, well, can hurt. Most cat owners know about love chomps, those playful nips cats give at times. They are different than true, defensive bites, which draw blood and really hurt. Love chomps are given out of affection, and sometimes can hurt a little, depending upon kitty's mood. What is going on, and why do they do this?

My cat Beau is deaf and is very physical in expressing himself. He loves to be touched, petted and kissed. His reaction back is to "chew" on me, sort of gnawing his teeth against my arm, as he purrs. I soon realized that this is out of caring, not out of defensiveness. He does this whenever he is deliriously happy, and it's sort of like he's trying to kiss me back but does it with his little teeth. Lucky me. I appreciate him for being so loving, and just show love back, but back off if he chomps a little too hard.

When your cat does this, don't hit or get mad, just gently brush it off and distract him to do something else. Cats respond to suggestion, professional trainers rely on this principle to train them. By giving kitty something else to think about, he will forget about gnawing on you and put his attention elsewhere. Though I'm not an animal behaviorist, I know what works for my cats, and use information learned by those in the know. A good resource to contact if you need a real professional's advice on cat behavior is at your local chapter of the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Aniimals). I called my local chapter and asked who to talk to regarding certain behaviors and they told me a behaviorist would call me back. She did, and was very helpful in giving me tips on handling problematic cat behaviors of different kinds. The ASPCA has local chapters in most cities and is a good resource for help with animals of many kinds so I recommend them.

Learning better communication with our pets is always helpful in understanding what they do and why they do it. Many pets end up at the pound because their owners didn't take the time or energy to learn why the animal did certain behaviors, then just gave up instead of fixing the gap in communication. We have to show our pets what to do in order for them to know what is expected of them. Cats can be more independent, of course, but they can be trained to undo bad behaviors with time and practise. Some things take more time than others. It is important to be patient and kind, anger only makes pets fearful and less apt to learn what you want them to learn.

For example, my cat Beau didn't sleep through the night when I first got him. As soon as the lights went off, it was his time to party. He sang his lungs out, picked on the other two cats (who were trying to sleep) and made a nusiance of himself. So, to combat his nighttime rowdiness, I kept him up all day, by waking him up every so often as he tried to nap, getting out a string with a toy on the end of it, and getting him to play till he was tired. By the end of the day, he welcomed sleep. And, he slept through the night. It worked. After awhile, I didn't need put forth any effort anymore, he just automatically slept through the night. I still wake him up occaisionally during the day, just in case, to make sure he's truly tired by the end of the day.

Another strange behavior is leg climbing. Sometimes, kittens think your leg makes a good substitute for a tree trunk and try to climb it. O-u-c-h! That can make just about anyone mad at first but remember, it's just a behavior that needs correcting. Kitty isn't aware that he is clawing the heck out of your skin, and is trying to be energetic. Give him something else to play on, like a kitty condo/cat tree. Those are great for cats who love to climb. Sprinkle it with catnip, and the next time little kitty throws himself at your leg, quickly put him on the cat tree, and mimic scratching on it, to show him what to do with it. By showing him, he will learn that it's more fun to climb the cat tree than you. Cat trees are always a good investment, I got mine on Ebay, and the cats live on it, practically. They know it's theirs and never scratch the couch since they have a place to get out their scratching needs.

Do you have a cat who loves to rocket around the house as he knocks over knicknacks and other stuff in his way? It's kind of like having a herd of wild elephants go charging through the living room, making a load of noise as they go. This is just cat energy being spent, kitty is bored and finding something to do. Give him some toys, and throw them for him so he can play. One great way to get kitty's energy focused is to use a laser light pointer and aim it at the wall. Watch kitty flip and flop, hopping at the wall on his tiptoes, as he tries to get that light. Don't shine the light in his eyes, because it is a laser, but do use it as a tool to play. Beau loves the laser light pointer and will watch the wall for hours afterwards, waiting for the light to come back. They can be bought at any office supply or pet store, cheap.

Another great and cheap toy to get kitty playing and distracted is the cotton swab, or Q-tip, but only let your cats play with these under your supervision so they don't ingest the cotton fuzz on the end. My cats never have swallowed any, and we've used them as toys for all my life. These things make my cats go wild. Just throw it in the middle of the room, or tie it to a string and drag it around the room. Any cat in the room will be drawn to it like a moth to a flame. My cat Blackie will do gymnastic manoevers with Q-tips, as he picks it up and throws it for himself, when nobody else does it for him. He can leap and rotate in mid-air. Cotton swabs make cats do the funniest things.

Embrace the crazy things your cat does, don't punish, just retrain if they do things that really bother you. It just takes a little understanding and patience. See what they need - are they bored, are they trying to show caring but doing it in a way that hurts? Gently retrain or distract. When kitty knows what you want from him, he will eventually get the hint and learn..most of the time. Beau still chomps on my arm, but doesn't do it as hard as he used to. He doesn't like being ignored, and if he mistakenly chomps too hard, I just walk off and don't give him the attention he wants. That, in itself, is punishment to him and he has learned from it.

If you want to see what other funny things other peoples' cats do, just watch America's Funniest Home Videos. Cats and dogs are great material for funny videos because they are fun and entertaining. Enjoy them, and let them enjoy you back. Teamwork is the answer.

Carolyn McFann is a scientific and nature illustrator, who owns Two Purring Cats Design Studio, which can be seen at: http://www.cafepress.com/twopurringcats . Educated at the Rochester Institute of Technology in New York, Carolyn is a seasoned, well-traveled artist, writer and photographer. She has lived and worked in Cancun, Mexico, among other interesting professional assignments in other countries. Clients include nature parks, museums, scientists, corporations and private owners. She has been the subject of tv interviews, articles for newspapers and other popular media venues.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carolyn_McFann

Choosing A Cat Name

2008-04-11T20:50:00.000-07:00

Welcoming a baby into a home comes with the joy and responsibility of naming the new addition – of forever assigning a label by which the world will refer to him. When it comes to our pets, the responsibility can feel just as important. Choosing names for our pets is a time-honored family tradition whereby we gather together to weigh in on the choice, basing a name on our pet’s very special personality. Choosing a cat name can be exceptionally difficult as cats come with their own subtle personalities that can initially be hard to identify.

Of course, for those of us who had cats in our homes as we were growing up, picking a cat name can be a bit easier; perhaps there’s a special cat that will forever hold a place in your heart after whom you wish to name your new cat. Perhaps there’s a name you’ve always admired but works best when paired with a unique cat; perhaps there’s a distinctive family name that is traditionally passed down to your pets or a name that’s meaning is something special for you; and, of course, there is always the consideration for particular names popular in different cultures.

Then of course there is a cat name that describes the look of your cat – a white cat, a fat cat, a small cat, etc; a cat name that relates the gender of your cat; or a cat name that describes the personality of your cat – whether friendly, funny, shy, etc. It may take a while to discover just what that personality is, especially if you are bringing home a kitten. It is totally appropriate to wait until you get to know your new cat before choosing a name that best fits him/her.

These days, the Internet can be the greatest resource for finding the perfect cat name. You can take a casual browse through the names or look for something specific. Take the time to find the cat name that best reflects the personality of both you and your pet – it’ll be with you a lifetime!

For easy to understand, in depth information about cat name visit our ezGuide 2 Cats.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michelle_Bery

How To Tell If Your Cat Is Pregnant - Part 1

2008-04-11T20:49:00.000-07:00

Is your cat acting strangely? Well it might be pregnant! It is important to recognize when a cat is pregnant so that you can provide sufficient care for your cat. Here are some simple steps that you can do to assure that your female pet is pregnant.

1. Usually when pregnant, your cats nipples will begin to grow and in the same time, become soft and pink.

2. Gently run your hand across your cats abdominal area to see if you feel any sorts of swelling or small lumps

3. When a cat becomes pregnant, her demeanor may change. Most of the time, they becoming more loving and affectionate compared to when they are not pregnant.

4. Take notice of a significant weight gain in your cat. To distinguish pregnant from fat, a pregnant cat will only be fatter around the abdominal area, but a fat cat is fat all over including the neck, legs, etc.

5. Sometimes a pregnant cat may experience morning sickness, similar to female humans when they are pregnant.

6. Your pregnant cat will start eating a lot more and demanding a lot more food. But it is still important to feed it with the correct kinds of food

So you find out that your cat is really pregnant! Don't panic because now the real work begins. If you are as lost as any other cat lover out there, help is on your way.

Discover the secrets that veterinarians and cat breeders use, to keep your pregnant cat safe and healthy AND raise happy, healthy kittens which would be discussed in part II

Check out http://www.squidoo.com/pregnantcat/ for part II on Taking care of our pregnant cat.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Benjamin_Chin

Most Common Misconceptions About Cats

2008-04-11T20:48:00.000-07:00

Cats are as common as dogs, but somehow there are a lot of people who dislike cats more than they do dogs, but when asked why, their reply would be, oh, I just hate them, no particular reason. Why is it that some people dislike cats? Are they misinformed? Do they have misconceptions about the furry felines? Given a chance to change their opinions on cats, it is certain that they will find these animals just enjoyable as dogs as pets.

Since cats and dogs are the most common house pets, they are frequently compared and judged. Through these constant comparisons, misconceptions about cats are formed, and people will realize some not-so-attractive qualities about cats. But a cat shouldn’t be compared with a dog, as a dog is an affectionate animal, and requires constant love and attention, whereas a cat has a more independent character. That would be appealing to some people who prefer a pet which isn’t so demanding.

Let us now rid ourselves of the misconceptions we might have towards cats. Here are two examples which you may find familiar.

“Cats are cold towards people and have no personality.”

Yes, compared to dogs, cats are a lot less affectionate. They do not run to you with wagging tails when you come home from work to greet you, and in fact, they may even seem indifferent towards you. Therefore cats are misunderstood as being cold and would not make a great pet. But cats are very loving creatures; it is just that they have selected moments when they want to be affectionate, and it is not all the time that they want to be friendly.

Don’t misunderstand your cat’s rubbing and nestling up your leg as a sign that it’s hungry and wants food or treats. Just because they are not as affectionate as dogs does not mean that they do not appreciate some warmth and affection from their masters. Cats are more quiet creatures, and they rather chill on your lap, table areas or smuggle up next to you when they want to get some rest.

“Cats are able to handle themselves and do not need human contact”

Here is another false impression about cats which is not totally true. There may be more stray cats than dogs in your neighborhood, but it does not mean that your pet cat since birth will want to wander into the real world and take care of itself

Cats are easy to maintain, and they take care of themselves well, as we all already know. A cat, however, if well taken care of with a lot of love will be affectionate towards its master, and will want some contact with them. These are probably the most appreciated qualities about cats- low maintenance, compared to any other pets out there. See below for more information on Siamese Cats.

For more information on Misconceptions about Cats or visit http://www.siamesecatsinfo.com/2-common-misconceptions-about-cats/, a popular website that offers information on Cats, Cats Breeding, and Cats Behavior. Please leave the links intact if you wish to reprint this article. Thanks

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Charley_Hwang

Living With The Cat - Chapter 5

2008-04-10T07:07:00.000-07:00

Under all possible domestic cats, the race of the Maine Coon is without any doubt the biggest! There are Maine Coons with a weight of over 15 kilograms and a length over all including the bushy tail of more than one meter. Whenever people visit me, they are impressed with my cat Gino. And he is not fat at all. He is just big and full of mussels. I can leave the front door wide open. Nobody would come into my patio. Even the dogs of our street respect him and stay away.

It was a big change for Gino, when we came from Middle Europe to Brazil six years ago, but now he got very well acclimatized. As there is no winter time, he doesn't show this wonderful winter coat and the very impressive mane, but he is still a semi longhair with a very different coat to all other cats here around. It was not at all the first time, we moved. I always had a life like a gypsy. This kind of life only a Maine Coon can accept.

Because there is something very special about Maine Coons. Normally cats have their territory and they really do not mind that much, who opens the tins for them. Maine Coons are different, they don't grow any deeper connection to the territory, but they have a firm connection to their owner. By the way, I never had the impression to be the owner of my cat. He is staying with me, because he likes the way I am treating him. I can take my cat, visit a friend or go out for fishing, he loves to travel or go by car. Whatever we do, it is all right, when we are together. He is not depending on me, but he is the kind of an adventurous cat. Of course I can leave him at home, but I always tell him: "I'll be back in some hours." ... or tomorrow.

I had heard about a woman, who had a Maine Coon in Germany and after five years she gave the cat away to another neighbor, because she had to move to another city. Just fourteen days later, the Maine Coon died. Reason was a broken heard.

Another thing special I experienced is that people suffering from cat allergies never had problems with Gino. Maine Coons have special oil, which coats their fur.

So if you are interested to buy a Maine Coon, be aware what you are going to do. This race lives almost twenty years. When your kids are grown up, the cat is still there and still trying to be your good friend.

Regine Hehn is a cats enthusiast and practitioner. She owns and maintains New Cat Care.

http://newcatcare.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Regine_Hehn

Living With The Cat - Chapter 4

2008-04-10T06:51:00.000-07:00

In reality I think there is no such choice like. Do I buy a rabbit or am I going to buy a chicken. Am I interested in a cat or a dog? You should feel deep inside of you, what attracts you. Many people have both, as well the cat and the dog. It works fine, takes some time, but they learn to live with each other.

I always hear people say, yes cat and dog can live together, but only when they get accustomed to it, when they are still young. This is not so! My cat for example is nine years old, 15 kilogram and a real big Maine Coon male. Just two month ago my wife and I married and we moved together. Her pet was a dachshund. Almost 10 years old and it was said, he doesn't like cats at all. My wife thought, we might have a big problem lying ahead.

Well I can tell everybody interested, only two month have passed, and they cannot live one without the other, they are lying in the sun together, they are having their meals together, they run about in the green grass around the swimming pool and are having a lot of fun.

Of course it was not all like that in the first days. First the dog thought, there was the cat, he always wanted to hunt. But the cat thought: This is my territory and I am not going to run away from this dog. They both had to learn a lesson. As hunting the cat did not work, the dog, his name is Dundee ate all the cat food, what made the cat very angry, but he still showed a lot of patience. Then Dundee put his entire body odor in the cats cushion. Now the Maine Coon, his name is Gino thought, enough is enough.

At the next attack of Dundee, Gino did not move one centimeter. Dundee started barking, but Gino only put himself in an upright position to defense himself better. Dundee approached more and still barking a little bit more. Then he was to close and Gino, the cat attacked very quick and very effective. The dachshund's nose was bleeding a little bit. Dundee was more than only surprised. The next days he went around the cat in a respectful distance. Then day by day the cat got used to the dog. The distances diminished more and more. Dundee came little by little so close; he finally could put his nose in the bushy tail of the cat.

Dundee never again attacked Gino and Gino allowed the dog to smell at him. One morning, when I woke up early, they both were laying one aside the other on my terrace in front of my living room.

Regine Hehn is a cat care enthusiast and practitioner. She owns and maintains New Cat care.

http://newcatcare.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Regine_Hehn

Taking Care Of A New Kitten

2008-04-10T06:13:00.000-07:00

Apparently pets are good for your health and are known to keep loneliness and depression at bay. With a lively pet in the house, you will never feel the need of having someone around you all the time and doctors are in fact recommending pet therapy to attain sound psychological health. Choosing a pet entirely depends on your individual preference. Most people mainly women and kids love having a cute kitten for company and treat it just like a child. They love taking care of a new kitten. Cats have often been associated with mystery and power and were considered as a witch's best friend. This could be because they are usually more intelligent as compared to dogs and also require little or no grooming assistance like dogs. They use their saliva to clean their coat and once taught to use litter boxes properly they can easily manage on their own. However, you need to prepare yourself for taking care of a new kitten before you invite your new pet into your house and buy some supplies to ensure that it has a comfortable stay.

When taking care of a new kitten, you will require a litter scoop/litter tray if you are planning to keep it inside the house all the time. Having a covered litter tray would be a good idea, as it prevents spillage. You will also require a pet carrier for your routine visits to the vet and boarding kennels and even when you are carrying it over to your friend's house. For the safety of your kitten, it is important to buy a collar and tag. These can be great assets, as they will help you get your kitten back in case it gets lost. Also get a few interesting toys and a scratching post for your kitten to entertain it and keep it happy. Make sure that you keep some healthy cat food ready for your beloved pet. Special formulas are available in the market that can be chosen depending on the age of your pet. A balanced diet with all the essential nutrients will keep your pet healthy and happy.

Now that you have the necessary supplies, the next step is to make your house "cat proof". After all, you never know when a kitten would attack your newly purchased sofas or dirty your expensive Persian carpet. Make sure that there are no small items around that can be easily swallowed. So, keep all those rubber bands, buttons, and tiny strings away from the reach of your pet to avoid choking. Kittens love to play with plastic bags, as they make interesting sounds and may accidentally swallow them while playing. Stash them away and also hide pills, bottles, and other medicines that can be consumed.

If gardening is your hobby, make sure that the plants you choose are not harmful. Certain ornamental plants are poisonous and can wreck your pet's health. It's a delightful experience to own a pet and it is your responsibility to keep it healthy. So, prepare yourself and your house for taking care of a new kitten and welcome this new four-legged bundle of joy into your lives.

Fore more information and tips on new Kitten Care and looking after your four legged friend visit => http://www.takingcareofanewkitten.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dean_Forster

New Trends In Cat Accessories

2008-04-02T06:27:00.000-07:00

There's always been a certain air of bulkiness and ugly familiarity of conventional cat care products. Lately, there's been a craze sweeping across cat lovers to make cat products as unique and stylish as their owners. Of course, quality and durability is essential to withstand even the toughest cat. Here are some fun products, from beds to litter pans, that your cat will love using and you'll love looking at!

The stylish Feline Lotus Cat Furniture set looks more like a work of art than a multi-tiered cat lounger and bed. It has two flat tiers, and a wonderfully designed third tier that's gently curved for kitty comfort. At the bottom, it comes with a huge scratching pad and a spacious privacy bed.

To top it off, this cat furniture comes with an extra-durable mahogany, birch or cherry finish. These wood finishes are neutral enough to match any furniture color scheme and actually add to the stylish value of the room!

Cats always needs fresh clean water. In the past, cat owners have always been baffled as to why cats gravitate towards running water to drink. The key to this is basic water chemistry. The longer water sits, the lower the pH becomes as it loses oxygen, and the more sour water tastes. By using the Vet Ventures Drinkwell Pet Fountain, which circulates water and also passes it through a carbon filter, you provide the freshest and most natural tasting water possible. Keeping more than one in separate rooms makes sure you never run out of water for your kitty! It can also hold up to a gallon of water, plenty for even 3 or more cats.

Tired of keeping your kitty's ugly plastic bulky litter box hidden away in a closet? Now you can incorporate the often awkward litter box into stylish end tables! The "Refined Feline Litter Box" comes in a regular size and a larger size (to support automatically cleaning litter boxes). It looks like a stylish simple table, and it comes in mahogany, birch or cherry. It has two opening doors on the front and a nicely sized cat entrance on the side.

This trendy litter box is also highly functional. With your cat's litter box being enclosed as it is in the Refined Feline Litter Box, odor and tracked litter will be minimized or even eliminated. The trays slide out for cleaning and it also has a storage drawer for convenience.

The days of boring old cat products are out! These new products are a treat for your cat and you to enjoy and admire!

Dominic Lee is the spokeperson for PetPetSupplies.com - the premier internet destination for pet supplies, accessories, and products for pets. Please check out http://www.petpetsupplies.com/cats-cat-furniture-scratchers.html for more trendy cat furniture and accessories

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dominic_Lee

Your Cat And How To Discipline Her

2008-04-02T06:26:00.000-07:00

Most days your kitty gives you a special calm and inner peace by showing her love and trust for you when she curls up in your lap and purrs herself to sleep as you gently stroke her body. She makes you laugh as she plays with her toys or speeds through the house.

But there can be those other days...Days she drives you crazy when she scratches your furniture, sneak attacks your ankles, stops using the litter box, knocks over your plants, insists on getting into things and places she's never bothered before or other strange and frustrating behavior you're positive she's doing just to get back at you for some reason. And sometimes you're looking right at her when she does these things!

Your first reaction when any of this happens is to discipline your cat. Let me tell you right now that a cat doesn't respond to discipline in a positive learning way.

First off, grabbing hold of your cat to begin administering the punishment will result in kitty fighting back. She has no idea that she has just done something you didn't like. All she knows is that right now, something bigger than her that has always been kind is holding her against her will. Rubbing your kitty's nose in the piddle she just left will probably get you bit or scratched but will also start a feeling of resentment and mistrust in your cat that may never go away.

A common form of behavior modification many people use on their cats is a squirt bottle. If you are doing this, PLEASE STOP. All you're doing is creating fear and mistrust in your cat that takes you from the "friend" category to the "enemy/predator" category in your cat's mind. You're instilling a fear of water in your cat plus you could accidentally get water in her ear, which can cause other problems entirely.

Your cat needs guidance. You need to teach your cat what behavior you'll accept but temper the lessons with love and patience. You need to begin to understand the basic nature of cats and their instincts. The "why" of their behavior.

An important first step to finding out why kitty is acting like she is is to take her to the vet for a check-up. Once you have the assurance of a clean bill of health, you need to ask yourself what has changed in the home.

The best way to stay in a loving friendship with your cat is to have patience, perseverance. Have you added something new to the house, changed the furniture around, changed cat foods, changed the location of the litter box, changed the litter, added a new pet, added a new baby or had a change in the social situation of the house? There are so many things that can upset kitty that it's going to be like solving a major detective mystery. Start putting all the clues together until the puzzle is finished and the reason revealed. There is always a reason why kitty is acting out. In the end, kitty will thank you for doing this for her instead of giving up.

Research has shown that most pets are given to animal shelters, or worse dumped somewhere; because of common behavior problems their owners didn't want to take the time to fix or didn't know how to solve. Once you understand why your cat is behaving the way she is, you will be able to fix the problems and live peaceably with her again.

Ruth Walby

These links will help you to understand why bad behavior occurs, what you are dealing with, and how to correct it. Remember; never, ever hit an animal for doing something, which to it, is only natural.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ruth_Walby

Persian Cats - A Mystery of the Cat Breeds

2008-04-02T06:25:00.000-07:00

The Persian cats are a breed all their own and the most popular cat in America. They have many special qualities and unique habits, which help to make them the most popular and beloved cat in America.

Cat owners around the world have discovered the many benefits of becoming friends to the furry feline.

Cats were probably not domesticated until approximately 5,000-8000 short years ago (this compares to 14,000 years of domestication for their canine counterparts). Cats first appeared some 35-40 million years ago according to fossil discoveries. In Egypt, cats were worshipped as goddesses. They felt the Goddess Bast controlled the heat of the sun. This was shown as a statue of a woman's body with a feline's head. The Egyptians also believed the cat was the daughter of Isis and the Goddess of the Sun and the Moon. The glow from cat's eyes held captive the light of the sun according to the Egyptians. Cats that belonged to the Egyptian pharaohs were mummified alongside them. This fact probably proved cats were held in great esteem by the Egyptians. They made carved wooden figurines, jewelry and furniture in the form of the fair feline. All these items have been found among the possessions of ancient Egyptians.

Cats were not only cherished for their extreme beauty. Humans found them to be very helpful in controlling rodent populations, which protected precious grain and food supplies. Cats proved to be an asset to almost every community in which humans settled. However, the world soon discovered not all cats are the same.

This mysterious creature comes in all shapes and sizes, colors and temperaments. Before the 1600's, the only cats appearing in Europe and the rest of the world all had short hair. You can just imagine the surprise and ultimate delight of those who came across the first luxurious longhaired cats.

It is difficult for cat historians to determine exactly when Persians first found their way into civilization. In fact, it is a general consensus among cat historians:

• We do not know the exact origins of the Persian
• We do not know how they came into existence
• We do not know where they were first developed

Persians are a mystery, and probably due mostly to people not keeping records.

Some facts historians can tell us about the Persian are:

• A man named Petro della Valle is accredited with introducing the first longhaired cats into Europe
• Della Valle brought several pairs from the land of Persia (known today as Iran) to Italy in approximately 1620
• The name "Persian" is derived from the area in which they were discovered
• For many years following the discovery of longhaired felines, Europeans referred to all longhaired cats as Persians or Angoras
• Angoras was brought to Turkey by a Frenchman named Nicholas-Claude Fabri de Peiresc
• There was a difference between these two types of cats: Persians and Angoras: the Persian cats had fuller, woollier coats and were stockier, while the Angoras from Turkey had a silkier coat of fur and a lighter frame
• Longhaired cats were the result of, or even a mutation of, cross-breeding between the furry European wild cat and the Steppe Cat, discovered by the German naturalist, Peter Simon Pallas
• The long, dense hair was necessary for these felines to protect themselves from the cold Asian environments of Persia and Angora

Source: Persian Cats by Sandra L. Toney, published by T.F.H., the world's largest and most respected publisher of pet literature

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats - For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon

Persian Cats - The Silver and Golden

2008-04-02T06:24:00.002-07:00

It has been said that in times passed the silvers were hard to handle. This is not true today. Persian cat breeders have worked hard to eliminate behavior problems. The silvers are however, described as being different in personality from Persians of other colors. Some of those differences are:

• More active
• Lower birth weights in general
• Females leave the nest box quite early
• They mature sexually at an early age, but do not look their best until they are three to five years old
• Some of the silvers are smaller in size and lighter in bone when compared with other Persians
• They are outgoing cats with unique personalities
• They are intelligent, affectionate and people-oriented lap cats
• They are not couch potatoes as Persians have often been described
• They are sensitive and need to be socialized from an early age
• They do not like isolation and confinement
• Many have profuse coats, some have the difficult-to-groom "cotton candy" coat
• All seem to have fine textured hair that breaks easily
• They may have more sensitive skin
• It is best to start grooming early and gently

Once you see a chinchilla Persian, you may feel there is no other color as striking. The silver and golden division includes the chinchilla Persian as well as shaded silvers and goldens. The chinchilla is a glistening white feline with black or gold tipping lightly sprinkled throughout the entire coat, except for a pure white color on chest and stomach. There are both gold and silver varieties of chinchilla Persians.

The shaded variety of Persian exhibits a mantle of black on its backside with evenly shaded sides. There should be darker tipping on the legs and face than is found on the chinchilla. Golden Persians have a basic color that is a deep, warm cream with the tips of the hairs being black.

Silvers and goldens should have green or hazel eyes with a black rim encircling them as if a makeup artist had applied eye liner either a dark red or rose colored and the paw pads should be black.

Shaded and smoke division contains all Persians with tipped coats, except for those who are found in the silver and golden division. Smoke Persians that fall into this category are:

• Black
• Blue
• Cream
• Cameo (red)
• Smoke tortoiseshell
• Blue cream

A sleeping or lounging smoke Persian will appear a solid color, however, once the smoke Persian begins to move, you will see the undercoat which is a pure snow white.

Source: Persian Cats by Sandra L. Toney, published by T.F.H., the world's largest and most respected publisher of pet literature, and Cat Fancy Association Online

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon

Persian Cats - A Breed of Many Colors Part 2

2008-04-02T06:24:00.001-07:00

It is probably not a good idea to introduce solids into a golden program to improve type and bone. This can cause the same problems that it does in a silver program and more problems. Problems are:

• It muddies the coat color
• Spoils the eye color
• Causes more tabby markings in a color that has not yet eliminated these markings

Silvers were being bred before 1900. The goldens were not seriously bred until the 1960s.

Color is most important in the shaded or tipped cats. The pale blue color of years ago has almost disappeared from the blue Persian. A smoke is not a smoke without the dramatic color-on-top and white-underneath coat. Silvers and goldens must have the proper tipping as well as black mascara and margins with the appropriate and distinctive nose and eye color.

A significant difference between chinchilla silvers and shaded silvers existed at one time. Today, some of the silvers are referred to as "neither/nors." They are neither chinchilla silvers nor shaded silvers. There are many more silvers registered as shaded than as chinchilla. There is seldom true shaded silver with sufficient tipping to give its lovely dark mantle. Often now if silver is not snow white, or if it has a little too much shading on the body, the Persian is registered as a shaded silver, even though it does not have enough tipping to be truly shaded. Until recently, you could tell the difference between chinchilla silver and shaded silver from across the room. This is not the case today.

The eye color in silvers and goldens has always been important. The standard in eye color for silvers and goldens is specific. The standard is:

• Green or blue-green (disqualify for incorrect eye color, which is copper, yellow, gold, amber or any color other than green or blue-green

This eye color standard is often difficult for golden and silver breeders to obtain. A silver or golden with incorrect eye color can still be valuable in a breeding program, but not in the shows ring.

Silvers have variations in the amount of tipping and a white undercoat with black tipping - one shade of white and one shade of black.

The golden standard is:

• Undercoat is to be cream and the tipping black

A cream cat with black tipping and green eyes is not a true golden. The overcoat of guard hair is ticked. Each hair shaft is banded with yellow, rust and dark brown or black. Goldens and chinchillas are also characteristic of having:

• Tabby M's on their foreheads, dark spines and dark tail tips
• It is rare to have two goldens of the same shade in the same litter
• The coat color can change until the Persian cat is five years of age or even older
• Some goldens are born with rich color
• Some take two to three years to develop a rich color
• The color of the undercoat can change with the seasons of the year to gray, muddy color at certain times of the year

There are very few goldens shown, as it is so difficult to get all things correct to the standard. Also, many goldens have been incorrectly registered and shown in the wrong color class. For example: An apricot golden has been shown as a chinchilla golden just because of its light color, not because of the appropriate amount of tipping. A darker golden color was more likely to be shown as a shaded golden just because it was dark and less attention given to the amount of tipping. Color class has been defined by the amount of tipping and not the color of the undercoat in goldens and silvers.

Many beautiful and competitive silvers were produced in the 1950s, '60s and '70s. The late 1970s brought blacks with a different look and shorter nose than some other colors. The silvers were as good as or better than the whites shown at this time. The silver breeders of the '70s were breeding selectively to improve and set type. It is unfortunate that this selective breeding further limited an already small gene pool.

Source: The Cat Fancier Association Online

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon

Persian Cats - Making a Commitment

2008-04-02T06:22:00.000-07:00

As longhaired cats became more and more popular in Europe, especially in England, British owners created clubs based on color. The blue longhairs were most popular in the late 1800's. Queen Victoria had a pair of colorful blue felines.

The Governing Council of the Cat Fancy was formed in England in 1910. The recommended standards of cat breeds were drafted as well. At that time, they decided the longhaired felines known as longhairs, or Persians, would be known formally as longhairs. They dropped the name Persian. The Angora cat declined in popularity. This was probably due to cat lovers preferring the Persians' fuller coat and stockier build. The Angora's coat was thinner and they had a leaner build.

People in the United States began obtaining longhaired cats in abundance from England. The Persian soon overtook the once-popular Maine Coon Cat by the 1900's.

The Cat Fancier's Association, which is the leading cat registry in the U.S. and the world, was founded in 1906. The Persian cat was also bred in different structural directions. The head shape and nose break would soon become the object of much criticism and concern. Regardless of this occurrence, the Persian was and still is one of the world's most registered and highest rated of all felines.

If you are searching for your first Persian kitten, there are many important things you need to think about, which include:

• Where to look
• What you are looking for prior to a selection

You will first need to understand that adding any kitten to your home is a commitment to care for, respect, and love this little creature for the duration of its life. This little kitty will depend upon you, its owner, for every need and want that will include:

• Food
• Recreation
• Medical check-ups
• Grooming
• Security
• Litter training
• Teaching where to and where not to scratch
• And companionship

The list above is not a complete list, but certainly at the top of your list for things a Persian kitty will definitely need. This is true of any kitten you adopt, however, adopting a Persian kitten will require more time and care than some other cat breeds. For one thing, the Persian cat generally has a long and full coat that will require daily grooming to keep it tangle-free and in good shape. You should count on Persian cat grooming on a daily basis at about 20 to 30 minutes each day. If this will be a problem for you, you might want to rethink the decision to adopt a Persian kitten.

And where to buy: Just as with puppy buying, avoid the pet shops. A purchase from a Persian cat breeder will probably yield the highest quality for you.

Source: Persian Cats by Sandra L. Toney, published by T.F.H. publications, the world's largest and most respected publisher of pet literature

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Written by: Connie Limon For more information about Persian cats visit: http://smalldogs2.com/PersianCats For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon

Cat Training Tips

2008-04-02T06:21:00.000-07:00

With these cat training tips I hope to destroy the myth that cats are all independent, fickle creatures that just want to be left alone. True, most cats lead a solitary, individual life. But studies have shown that cats are incredibly affectionate and loving by nature...they just need their owners to demonstrate a little leadership and begin some rapport building.

Most cat owners take for granted a cat's ability to learn. After all, a cat will automatically take to the litter box and will clean and preen herself for what seems like hours on end. But, don't underestimate your cat's abilities to learn more advanced things like learning to sit on command, to come when called, to stay or to fetch. Training your cat has another advantage, too! It will enrich her life in the following ways.

-It will build a strong rapport between you and your cat

-The training will underline your authority over her which in turn eliminates dominant behavior

-It will obviously keep your cat's mind active and thus, stimulated

-Training teaches good social skills

-The repetition of training will make anxious and high strung cats become more reassured

So, how do you train a cat?

There are two very popular methods: target training and clicker training.

Target training is where you use a toll to attract your cat's attention and get the desired results. For example, a training wand is held slightly above the cat's head until he looks up and is forced to sit or beg.

Clicker training uses a device that makes a clicking sound. When the cat performs the desired effect, the clicker is sounded at that precise moment. For example, if teaching the cat to sit, as soon as her bottom touches the ground sound the clicker and give her a small treat. With repetition, the cat learns to associate the click with food and recognizes that by "performing" she will get a treat.

Here are a few tips for training your cat.

-Patience, patience, patience. All cats are individuals and will learn at a different pace. She may learn some tricks quickly while struggling with others. Don't lose your temper if a training session doesn't go as planned.

-If you leave food out for your cat to eat whenever she wants stop that practise at once. You will want to use treats during your training to speed up results. This won't work if Miss Kitty has a full tummy! Plan your training sessions just before a scheduled mealtime. It will sharpen her focus and she will more readily obey.

-Itty bitty baby steps are best! Build a strong foundation of the basics, like sit, stay and come, before trying to teach her to give high fives or open a cabinet, etc.

-Remember cats have short attention spans. Keep her sessions short and invigorating. Always try and end on a positive note.

These tips will get you started with training your cat, If you need guidance, there are a number of cat training manuals and courses available online. While most of the courses tend toward dog training some for cats are quite useful. Your local library may even have a few. Any effort you make will be rewarding for both you and your cat.

Steve Kettle is a freelance writer and publisher of a pet website. You can visit it at http:http://www.pawspawspaws.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Kettle

Can Cats and Dogs Coexist?

2008-03-23T01:37:00.000-07:00

I don't know about you, but I love both cats and dogs. I hate it when people ask "Are you a cat person or a dog person? There is no reason the two "enemies?" can't get along. Agreed, you have to supervise most of the time, at first, but give it time. My dogs love my cats now. Even the little fiesty Jack Russell plays very well with my felines. I believe the cats tolerate her, as best that a cat can, and they even let down their guard when they are around her.

Here are some tips to help tabby and fido to get along:

1. Don't ever sic your dog on anything. They will take it as an invitation to mull the cat too.

2. Let tabby defend herself and believe me, your dog will have a new found respect for her. ( We once had a golden retriever that was scared to death of our little alley cat because he backed the dog into a corner hissing and clawing like there was no tomorrow. Poor dog never got over it!)

3. Give lots of love to both evenly. Remember cats get jealous, too.

4. If your dog gets aggressive, scold him. Let him know that aggression is unacceptable.

5. Both animals need toys. They can't be the same toy rather an appropriate dog toy and cat toy. I have found cat trees and condos are perfect for your cat. She can climb high and look down on the dog to prove her superiority. (Believe me, cats DO think they are superior!)

6. Let each have their own place to sleep. Whether it is a cat bed or dog bed or in bed with you!

7. Never feed them in the same room! Feeding together may work for some but it can cause problems down the road.

8. Have fun and play with both. They will get the idea that they can coexist.

If you try these tips and use common sense, there is no reason you can't enjoy the company of both your cat and dog. I wouldn't trade my menagerie for anything. I now have 2 dogs and 4 cats living under one roof and so far, everyone is getting along. I have no reason to think that they won't continue.

The auther is Janet Patterson owner of many animals over the years and haven for many stays. She now has 4 cats in the house and 14 in the barn. All neutered and vaccinated. Check out her website http://www.catsfurnitureloft.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Janet_Patterson

10 Cat Training Tips For Training Your Cat in 10 Minutes

2008-03-23T01:34:00.000-07:00

You might have heard that it's impossible to train a cat. While it can certainly be difficult, and is a lot different from training a dog, it can be done. You just have to learn to be one step ahead of your cat. Here are 10 cat training tips that can make house training your cat in 10 minutes a possibility.

cat training in 10 minutes might sound hard to believe, but you can pick up all the basics you need right away. Then, you just keep reinforcing the right behaviors and following the basic rules of cat training.

1. Never punish your cat. By the time you discover what your cat has done, chances are that he or she has forgotten all about it. Punishments can be confusing, and might even be associated with something else.

2. Reinforcing good behavior, instead of punishing bad behavior, is one of the most important of the 10 cat training tips. If you see your cat doing something good, give him or her a reward right away. This can be a treat, or some other pleasant thing, like a pat on the head, or a little bit of catnip.

3. Most cats prefer to be on a schedule. That's why you might get woken up at six am for feeding time, even on the weekends. Feed your cat at the same time every day, and try not to make too many changes in the environment. If you have to do something different, keep an eye on your cat to make sure that he or she isn't too stressed out. Stress from environment and schedule changes can cause "bad" behavior.

4. Even a good cat can't always say no to temptation, whether it's in the form of playing with your best suit or knocking things over. Treat cat proofing the house like baby proofing the house, but remember that this baby can climb up on shelves and tables if there's something interesting up there.

5. Bored kitties are ones that want to get into and knock over things. Make sure there are lots of toys and other things to keep your cat entertained, especially if you're away.

6. Always be consistent. If you change your behavior, your cat training isn't going to stick. The cat won't absorb the lesson if you keep changing it.

7. Make sure you spend time with your cat. If you're constantly away, you won't get to know your cat, and bonding won't happen. When you know your pet well, you'll easily be able to read the body language that says a bad behavior is on the way.

8. Make sure your cat gets good care. While this doesn't seem like a cat training tip, it really is. If your cat isn't getting the right food, health care, and other environmental things he or she needs, this can result in less effective training.

9. Make bad behavior unappealing. This isn't the same as punishment. If you arrange your home so that scratching the couch is more difficult than using a scratching post, or other bad behavior is difficult, your cat is less likely to do it.

10. Love your cat. Sounds silly, doesn't it? However, a cat you don't really love is one you'll have a hard time connecting with enough to train. If you and the cat aren't really getting along, it might be time to change something.

While training your cat can be a daunting process, these 10 cat training tips should help point you in the right direction. You can find more detailed help on subjects such as house training your cat at the website listed below. I hope these tips helped you het on your way to a happy and healthy pet.

Thomas Kellerman has been a cat owner for more than 20 years, for more information on Cat Training in 10 Minutes. please visit: http://www.ourcatsecrets.com/10-must-have-cat-training-tips.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thomas_Kellerman

Cat Behavior Basics

2008-03-23T01:33:00.000-07:00

Why is you cat not using the litter box? Why is she scratching the couch, again? Why is he always jumping on the counters?

Most people do not think cats have behavioral problems. However as most cat owners know kittens need to be taught not to jump up on the counter, eat from the sink, use the litter box and more. Many owners run into problems both with kittens and older cats behavior.

Probably the most common problem is the litter box. While most kittens automatically use it, it seems later in your cat's life they decide the whole house is a toilet. There are any number of reasons why a cat, of any age could stop using the litter box.

A major reason, believe it or not, is people simply forget to clean the litter box. If your cat starts going outside the box the first thing you need to try is cleaning the box, twice a day for a few weeks.

If the cat still does not go in the litter box, you need to see a vet. Your cat could have a bladder infection, that could be life threatening if nothing is done soon. This is especially a risk to kittens. If you do not take immediate action your cat will keep going outside the box, and even when cured of a bladder infection, they will still go outside the box due to habit and associating the litter box with pain.

If your cat is not sick, and your box is clean there still are other things to do. Many older cats do not want to walk down stairs to go to the bathroom, therefor, especially if your cat has arthritis put a litter box on every floor of the home. Try this step with multiple cats, of any age, because occasionally cats can get territorial over their litter box not allowing another cat to use it.

The next biggest problem with cat behavior problem is cats scratching the couch. The first thing you need to do is buy more scratching posts. Many cats do not use their scratching post because they do not like the carpet on it, or its location. Get a variety of scratching posts and move them around the house, and block areas of the couch and other areas your cat likes to scratch with the post.

For playful kittens try attaching one of their favorite toys on top of the scratching post, as the kitten trys to grab the toy they will realize the purpose of the scratching post.

If all else fails you can try sticky tape on the areas they like to scratch, although tape constantly on your couch can become annoying to everybody else in the house.

Jumping up on tables and counters is another common behavioral problem with cats. The main mistake people make here, is yelling at the cat. Although it gets them off the counter, you have just reinforced the idea that they only have to follow the rules when you are around. A better option is to discreetly use a squirt bottle and try to not have the cat see you. This way you are not connected as the person who enforces the rules, the counter, or area they jump on is.

A way to prevent problems early on, as far as personality, friendliness and how well your cat listens is to socialize with it, especially with kittens. Kittens need attention, and in order to grow up to be friendly cats they must be around humans as much as possible. Never get a kitten unless you can devote time with it all day, almost every day, until it is at least 9 months old. If you can not spend all of this time off work or school, get an adult cat, who was well socialized as a kitten.

There are endless possible behavior problems for any animal, and even covering all of them for cats could make a dictionary sized book. Check out my reference for more information on other problems.

To learn much, much more on cat behavior and behavior problems go to http://catbehaviorinfo.blogspot.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sara_Taylor

Gentle Cat Training

2008-03-23T01:29:00.000-07:00

To encourage cats there must be treats and rewards. When your cat hears rustling of a food bag or a can opener sounds does you cat come running? This would be a clear illustration of such behavior. Cats hear those sounds and often related them to food rewards.

Make sure to first take your pet to the veterinarian, to ensure there are no undetected health issues that be be aggrabated or intesified by the training activities.

For the highest effectiveness be sure to give immediate appraisal such as treats, a full tasty meal, or even a toy as a reward just to ensure your cat has been properly encouraged to maintain good behavior.

At a later time after your cat relates the saying "good" with a treat and the positive act you may later use just the saying and a nice scratch behind the ears for positive reenforcement.

Using positive emphasis and reinforcement, the pet will be willing to learn good behaviors and basic instructions or commands.

Training tip and guidlines:

1. It is better to start before the pet has a chance to form or develop any unwanted behavior. So for a more responsive and open experience try to start when they are kittens.

2. A gentle hug, caress or whisper will leave a longer impression than yelling and bitter words. So try to give positive reinforcement at all times.

3. Training must be limited. Frequently but brief. Cats work better in four to six sessions of 5 minutes intervals of training rather than two one hour sessions. Because cats possess a short attention span and lose interest very quickly.

4. To limit the cat's distractions such as climbing a tree or playing with the neighboring pets keep training indoors.

Discipline should be instilled for a well behaved cat, but tough punishment must be avoided. Cats usually do not respond to hitting or yelling. That generally leaves them afraid of you doing the action rather than the bad behavior. During training the pet with defer from negative acts. Keep your approach a positive one. In response to your negative actions the pet will stop loving you and will not achieve the desired result of having a happy loving relationship with your wonderful pet cat!

This article was written by Liz Barton. Learn how to solve your cat behavior problems - you'll find more information on cat problems by visiting http://www.secretsofcats.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elizabeth_Barton

Cat Breeding Profile: Somali

2008-02-29T06:38:00.000-08:00

The Somali is a breathtaking cat to behold. It bears an uncanny resemblance to a little fox, with its large ears, masked face, full ruff and bushy tail. The Somali’s wild, feral look is what immediately draws fascinated attention.

Somalis are intelligent cats, and while active, they have soft voices and are usually quiet. They communicate with human family members through soft mews and possess a charming trill. They are extroverts and very social. Possessed with a zest for life, they love to play, solicit nuzzles and pats, and thrive on human companionship. Somalis have bursts of energy several times a day, at which time they will take off through the house, jumping into the air. They toss balls and toys in the air, fetch them back and begin the game anew. Tail and back arched, the Somali will run sideways like a monkey, and even hold objects and food the way a monkey does. Adept at opening cupboards and drawers, Somalis sometimes hide inside their secret areas. Many Somalis can manipulate faucets, and they love to play with water.

Somali
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW FAIRYTOWN DYNASTY OF LEO STAR, Ruddy Somali Male
Photo: © Satoshi Daichi

Somalis are well-proportioned, medium to large cats with firm muscular development. Their body is medium long and graceful, with a medium-length soft and silky coat that requires little grooming. The coat is usually one to three inches long, with shorter fur across the shoulders. The tail is fluffy and full; their feet have tufts between the toes. Their large, almond shaped eyes range in color from intense green to rich copper. The Somali has an agouti, or ticked, coat with four to twenty bands of color on each hair. The ticked fur mantles the cat with harmonizing solid color on its underside. They come in four recognized colors: ruddy, red, blue and fawn.

Somalis have small litters of three to four kittens, which develop slowly. They reach their full size at about eighteen months of age.

Somali
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, RW SUNFOX WILD BLUE HUCKLEBERRY, Blue Somali Male
Photo: © Chanan

Pricing on Somalis usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Somali breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

Text: Karen Talbert
Last Updated: Thursday, May 24, 2007

Pet Health: BG Monitoring

2008-02-29T05:25:00.000-08:00

Home Blood Glucose Testing of the Diabetic Cat

If you have a diabetic cat, consider doing home blood glucose testing. After a few tests, the vast majority of cats won't mind this at all. Advantages of home testing include less stress to your cat, considerably decreased costs and time of monitoring compared to vet visits, closer control of your cat's blood glucose level by more frequent monitoring, and possible avoidance of deadly hypoglycemic episodes.

This technique and the results should be discussed with your vet before any changes in the amount of insulin you give your cat.

NOTE: There is some information on working with blood glucose (BG) curves in the "Diabetes for Beginners" section of this web site.
Links to glucometer testing videos and slide shows:
Veterinary Partner
Punkin's Movie
Home blood testing with Harry
Amanda's hometesting page
Ear Prick illustration
Test strip illustration
Jock's insulin pen and testing
Materials for home testing

* Glucometer
o If your instruction book confuses you, see if there is an 800 number to call so a company representative can guide you through the first-time setup and calibration.
* Test strips
* Lancets; a lancet pen probably came with your meter. You can use this pen or just hold the lancet for a "free hand" stick. Starting with the lancet pen is recommended.
* OPTIONAL:
o Warm washcloth or a rice-filled sock that has been heated in microwave for 15 seconds - CHECK THE TEMPERATURE ON YOUR WRIST
o Facial tissue or cotton ball to apply pressure to the puncture site after the test
o Small flashlight

Tips for Success

* Read your glucometer manual.
* Put all the materials on your right if you're right handed or on your left if you're left-handed.
* Begin by petting and stroking your cat, speaking in affectionate tones
* Do NOT clean the stick area with alcohol. If dirty, use water and then dry thoroughly.
* Use the cloth or sock to warm the ear or paw pad before pricking to increase blood flow and enlarge the capillaries and veins. Alternatively, gently massage the area with your fingertips.
* If you use the lancet manually (not in a pen), prick at a 45 degree angle.
* Praise your pet and consider giving a treat.

Method

* Assemble all your materials and wash your hands.
* Position your cat so both of you are comfortable.
* Locate a vein on your cat's ear by shining a flashlight behind it. The vein will look like a red string and should be near the edge of the ear. If you are using a paw pad, use the large pad.

Photo courtesty of Pawprints and TEN

* Use the cloth or sock to warm the ear or paw pad before pricking to increase blood flow and enlarge the capillaries and veins. Alternatively, gently massage the area with your fingertips.
* Position the lancet and do the prick.
* Touch the tip of the test strip to the top of the blood drop at a slight angle.
* If necessary apply slight pressure to the prick site for a few seconds to stop the bleeding.
* Wait for the glucometer to give the final reading. Most glucometers will warn you if there is insufficient blood on the test strip.
* Record the date, time, and glucose reading in a notebook. Your meter will store a lot of data, but you should always back up your data manually or, if available with your meter, download the data to your computer periodically.

Links and tips from others:

Testing for Feline Blood Glucose - the Movie!
Ear sticks: 5 contributions
Footpad sticks: 2 contributions

Ear Sticks

I. Contributed by Julie Paque

Supplies needed:

Blood glucose monitor that requires a small amount of blood. (I use the Precision Blood Glucose Monitor made by Medisense. It needs only 5 micro liters of blood, vs. up to 30 micro liters for other monitors. Their customer service at their 800 number is great, too.) These are available from your local pharmacy, and a rebate is also often available, bringing the price down considerably. The companies make their money with the test strips, not the meters.

Test strips for monitor (most come with a learning supply.) These run about $35-40 for a supply of 50 strips.

Microcapillaries, 75 mm long by 1 mm diameter. You can use heparinized or non-heparinized, it doesn't matter, so go for what you can find or is cheaper. Your vet may be able to help you get some, or a medical or chemistry supply store. Use one per test.

A bulb with a hole for the end of the microcapillary (optional, to blow the blood out of the capillary onto the test strip.)

Tissue or gauze pads

Outline of procedure:

You will use the lancet included in the blood glucose monitor kit to prick the ear of your cat. The microcapillary will pick up the blood drop from the ear and you will put it on the test strip.

Detailed steps:

Learn how to use the meter, testing on yourself.

Getting blood from the cat:

a. Look carefully around the edge of the ear, you'll see a vein running just inside the edge. You may need a flashlight to see the vein, shine the flashlight from under the ear and the vein is visible even on dark haired cats.

b. When learning it is best to test the cat when he's warm. Such as when he's been sitting in the sun, or curled up in a particularly warm spot. You'll notice a big difference in the temperature of the ears, and it is much easier to get blood from warm ears than from cold ones! Later on when you have the technique down you'll be able to do it even when they're cold, but make it easy on yourself by optimizing conditions for you and the cat.

c. Have a folded tissue or gauze pad, the lancet, and the capillary ready. Put the cat between your knees, facing away from you. Keep your feet together so he can't back out. Don't wash the ear with water or alcohol before you prick it, you'll never be able to collect the blood.

d. You're going to use the lancet to prick the ear near the vein, if you hit the vein you'll get plenty of blood, if you're near it you'll still be able to get enough. Put the tissue underneath the ear so you don't prick yourself and contaminate the blood sample. You may need to prick more than once initially to get enough blood, gentle massage around the site will also encourage the blood to come out. After you've done a series of tests in the same area it becomes slightly swollen and it is easier to get the blood on one prick.

e. Pick up the blood with the capillary. For the Precision monitor I need a little more than 5 mm of blood in the capillary in order to perform the test. It just so happens that the capillaries that I am using have a line at the 5 mm mark. Set the capillary with the blood aside and use the tissue to apply pressure to stop any bleeding on the cat's ear. Give him a big hug for cooperating and let him free.

f. Put the test strip in the monitor and wait for the ready signal. Put the blood on the strip. If you have a bulb for the end of the capillary cover the hole and squeeze to get the blood out of the capillary. If you don't have one you can blow through the opposite end. Record the results in the booklet.

If the results of any test seem unusual it is always a good idea to repeat the test. Don't ever make radical changes in what you're doing based on a single results. And it's always a good idea to keep your vet up to date on the results of your testing and work with him or her to determine any changes necessary to your cat's regimen.

II. Contributed by Darlene

I have a Glucometer Elite, and love it. All you need is a drop of blood the size of an "o" in newspaper print. No separate capillary tubes -- it's built right into the test strip. I do ear sticks when I test, which isn't often these days because Pooter is doing so well. Before he was regulated, I did my own curves and plotted them for the vet to look at rather than taking the cat in for a whole day, and spot-checked once in a while when he wasn't acting right.

The chemical reaction in the test strip is very sensitive to humidity and anything else that can get into that little slot, so you have to be both careful and quick. Once you put the test strip into the machine, you only have three minutes to get the sample, which may not be enough while you're still learning how to keep the cat from flicking his ear and sending the blood drop off into space.

Here's my sequence. First I open an alcohol swab and twirl the lancet in it a few times to clean it off, then I open the foil test strip packet and put the strip into the meter just far enough to sit there but not far enough to activate it. Then I use the swab to sterilize the closed end of the packet and a patch of table for the cleaned packet to rest on.

Then I snuggle the cat and massage his ear until its good and warm (bleeds easier then ... some people bring a lamp down close to warm up the ear). Then I stick him, and if he doesn't bleed right away I massage the ear from the base up towards the pinhole and that sometimes brings up a small drop, otherwise he gets stuck again. Now you have to be quick, because that tiny drop congeals fast.

I scoop the drop up onto the sterilized end of the foil packet and release the cat -- takes both hands to slip the open end of the packet back over the test strip to protect it from contamination while you push it the rest of the way into the meter (without losing the drop of blood on the other end). In a couple of seconds the meter says it's ready, and you just touch the droplet to the end of the test strip until it's sucked up and you hear the beep.

If your cat is more cooperative than Pooter, you'll find that in no time you can warm the cat's ear up first, then start the meter, do the stick, and take the sample right off the cat's ear. More often than not, the irritation of the poke and the blood sitting there will bring on twitches, so I had to find a way of getting the sample onto a sterile surface before he bled all over the kitchen.

Oh -- I was told not to use alcohol or anything to clean the cat's ear for this, since it just inhibits bleeding and might contaminate the sample. The bleeding stops in seconds, and he's had no infection or irritation despite the kazillion times I poked him in same spots. I do re-use the lancets, and clean them with alcohol before and after each use. I tried using the spring-loaded pen that jabs the lancet quickly, but the noise made him jump, so now I just hold the lancet itself. It's easier to aim right at the little vein if you can see the sharp tip and exactly where it's going, too.

The glucometer is a great idea, and Pooter wasn't even close to regulated until I curved him with it several times. You'll know exactly what's going on with his blood sugars at the exact time you need to know -- this means you can tell when his insulin peaks, how far down it's taking the BG and for how long, and adjust his feeding (quantity and quality) to perfectly cover the insulin. Urine testing never gives you this precision -- it only tells you that at some point over the last X hours, the BG did or didn't get high enough to cause glucose dumping (and if it did, you don't know when or for how long -- all you know is that the BG was high enough for dumping to occur, which is the same level at which organic damage is being done). The meter will pay for itself in reduced vet visits, too. The main benefit for Pooter is that with close monitoring, a lot of the damage done to his body by poorly controlled diabetes is reversing -- his legs are stronger, his kidneys are concentrating urine instead of washing out glucose, etc. etc.

The main benefit for me is is that I got my life back -- I can inject him, feed him, and take off for the day without worrying whether he died in agony while I was out. For several months I absolutely had to be there when the insulin peaked, because he had so many reactions, or over-feed him to make sure there wasn't one, so he got fatter and fatter and sicker and sicker. We're both much happier now!

Darlene

III. Contributed by Kathy

Procedure for Home Testing of Blood Glucose using a Glucometer Elite Meter and a Lancet Device: Ear Sticks or Paw Sticks
. The "Follow-up" section of this monograph has an excellent description of using a spreadsheet to track your cat's progress.

IV. Contributed by Donna B.

A nice comprehensive write-up of this caretaker's approach to glucose monitoring.

V. Contributed by Eileen Swords RN, BA, BSN

I recommend the Fast Take monitor & the Soft Touch automatic lancet. (I am an NICU RN with 20 years of experience).

It is a very good idea to do all glucose testing in a "procedure room" in the house (in our case, it's our spare bedroom & we now call it the "torture room"). The rationale for this is that the cat will be able to truly relax in the "safe" areas of the house. We use this technique in the hospital with our Peds patients so that they feel more relaxed in their hospital room. Our kitty gives us a very pained look when he is taken in "the room", but he is VERY HAPPY when he is ANYWHERE else. We have not done this with the Insulin injections because he really does not seem to mind them.

Footpad Sticks

I. Contributed by Jerry

I just wanted to add my endorsement of the Glucometer Elite brand for home glucose testing. I tried another (cheaper) brand but was not able to obtain a large enough drop of blood for a reliable test. Glucometer Elite requires about one-fifth as much blood, making sampling much less traumatic on cat and owner.

I don't use the lancing device supplied with the Elite. Rather, I use a standard pen-shaped lancing device. I use the head attachment intended in humans for thick, calloused skin - for a bit deeper puncture. Press this FIRMLY into the big pad on kitty's rear foot. My cat had not cried nor flinched with this method. Finally, transferring the tiny drop of blood to the strip is easy; the strip itself wicks the sample into a little chamber. There is no continued bleeding, by the way. ***layman's experience only - your results may vary*** - I offer this as an alternative to using the marginal ear vein.

Best of luck to all, Jerry

II. Contributed by Kathy

You may need to stick with the lancet manually or use a lancet device that gives deeper penetration (e.g., SoftClix with adjustable depth) and larger lancets to get enough blood. Otherwise it shows real promise as an alternate site to give the ears a break. Our cat doesn't even move, like she doesn't even feel the stick.

First wipe off the large pad on one of the paws with warm water and dry it. Press the lancet device FIRMLY against the pad and release the lancet. Then squeeze the pad to get a blood drop. Continue as described with ear sticks.

Pet Health: PZI (Protamine Zinc Insulin)

2008-02-29T05:21:00.000-08:00

What is PZI?

PZI (Protamine Zinc Insulin) is insulin combined with zinc and protamine (a protein extracted from salmon testes), which slow the release of the insulin into bodily tissue. Historically, the insulin component of PZI, as well as all other insulin produced for human medical use, was derived from animals, either cows or pigs. Animal-derived insulin is a by-product of slaughtering food animals. The pancreas is ground and transformed into a crystalline powder, which is sold to insulin manufacturers. No animals from countries where BSE (mad-cow disease) exists may be used.

Mass-produced, genetically engineered human insulin has generally replaced animal-derived insulin in use by human diabetics. In the mid-90's in the US, beef-source insulin (including PZI formulations) were phased out by the major producers such as Lilly Pharmaceuticals. Since beef-pork PZI was the insulin most familiar and most recommended for diabetic cats, many were left scrambling (and some were, sadly, unable) to find an effective alternative.

No longer able to obtain beef-pork PZI for their veterinary clients, compounding pharmacists developed a formula substituting human insulin (Lilly markets it as "Humulin") for animal-derived insulin, along with protamine-zinc. Although completely untested in any scientific way, this seems to have been a satisfactory substitute for many feline PZI customers.

PZI sold today by most compounding pharmacies in the US is almost certainly a compound of human “Regular” insulin. Until recently, the only exceptions to this were pharmacists who had hoarded a dwindling supply of one of the discontinued animal-derived insulin. However, in 2000, BCP Veterinary Pharmacy of Houston, Texas succeeded in chemically reproducing Lilly's Iletin I 100% beef PZI (discontinued in 1990), making them the only US source for an all-beef PZI. As for US manufacturers, IDEXX Pharmaceuticals who produces PZI vet doesn't actually have FDA approval for the manufacture. Kellie & chu of the FDMB, contacted the FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine about this in February 2007. The FDA CVM states that PZI Vet is not FDA approved but is allowed to be marketed under regulatory discretion. PZI Vet is manufactured in a FDA-inspected plant, however. PZI Vet is the first insulin produced for, and tested exclusively for cats rather than humans. Idexx makes the claim that it is "the only insulin scientifically proven to be effective in diabetic cats." That claim is now disputable as more insulin types are now being manufactured and then tested in diabetic cats. You can find more information at the Idexx web site.

Why use PZI?

For a few cats, human insulin does not successfully replace the cat's own insulin, so for them, the source of the insulin is very important to regulation. Bovine (beef) insulin is most similar in molecular structure to feline insulin, and it is thought for this reason, to be most effective for these cats.

In addition, with 2 injections per day, the many cats who do respond to the human forms of insulin, experience better control, consistency and flatter curves with PZI. In some cases, PZI offers longer durations than human insulin (up to 24 hours) allowing one injection per day. Although there is little scientific evidence either way, experientially, among FelineDiabetes.com contributors, there is a strong preference for manufactured beef (or beef-pork) PZI, over the compounded human insulin PZI, which is suspected of sloppy or inconsistent small-scale production, because it deviates from the historical formula for PZI, and has less of a track record.

In the UK, CP Pharmaceuticals has been producing bovine insulin (for humans) for 25 years, and Schering-Plough has recently started to market a veterinary PZI-beef product.

Three forms of PZI sold in the US:

(1) Beef-Pork PZI from IDEXX Pharmaceuticals

Beef-pork insulin from IDEXX Pharmaceuticals (formerly Blue Ridge Pharmaceuticals) is available for sale to veterinarians.

Vets will likely mark up the cost to you, possibly by a lot. Before ordering, ask what your vet will charge you.

IDEXX PZI has a shelf life (unopened) of 3 years from the date of manufacture.

(2) PZI available from US pharmacies

The "PZI" insulin available by prescription from US compounding pharmacists generally consists of "Regular" human insulin (rapid-onset, short-duration) which has been compounded with protamine-zinc to extend its duration. A small number of pharmacists mix insulin from OTHER sources with PZ. They may have sources of discontinued beef-pork from Lilly, Europe, or use pure pork (Lilly Iletin II). You have to ask them, to know for sure what you're getting. Pharmacists combine the insulin with PZ in onsite laboratories, under what should be stringent conditions. Quality controls and checks mandated by the FDA for manufacturers don't apply to compounders. Relatively small batches of insulin may be compounded to order, or monthly, depending on demand. Without strict adherence to procedure, there is a risk of variability between batches and contamination that is greater than when getting insulin from a manufacturer. This is reflected in shorter shelf life recommendations. Some pharmacists, especially those who compound large volumes of PZI, take voluntary measures to ensure a clean, consistent product, such as outside analysis, and incubation to test sterility.

BCP Veterinary Pharmacy is unique as their pharmacists compound PZI with insulin crystals like a manufacturer, although they work in much smaller quantities and under less stringent conditions and specifications. They have chemically reproduced a formula for 100% beef PZI, which Lilly once sold under the name Iletin I. A prescription is required - but unlike IDEXX - there is no minimum order, and they will ship to you directly allowing one to avoid vet markups. As with any compounded formulation, variability between batches may be slightly greater than the stricter tolerances required of manufactured insulin. However, ongoing analysis is conducted by BCP Veterinary Pharmacy to ensure consistent quality control.

Shelf life: Depending on which pharmacist you ask, shelf-life for compounded insulin ranges between 30 and 90 days, which can be less than a manufactured product. They may compensate for this by offering smaller quantities (but they may not charge less). If you test bg's at home, you can judge for yourself if the efficacy is fading. Using sterile techniques and keeping insulin in the refrigerator will prevent or delay bacterial contamination. BCP's shelf life for its regular beef PZI is six months.

(3) 100% Beef PZI from the UK

There are currently 2 manufacturers of 100% beef PZI insulin in the United Kingdom (UK).

CP Pharmaceuticals' Hypurin® is licensed for human use and is therefore sold through pharmacies in the UK (one is listed below), and elsewhere in Europe. The 100% bovine, U100 insulin comes from US cows, and is offered in 4 formulations: PZI, Lente, Isophane (NPH) and Neutral (Regular). Pork insulin (used by some cats), which is structurally identical to dog insulin, and should be similar to human insulin when used in cats, is also offered (in Neutral, Isophane, and 30/70). A prescription is not required when shipping outside the UK. Shelf life once opened is 90 days (refrigerated).

Schering-Plough's Insuvet® is 100%beef, U100, and is approved only for veterinary use in the UK and is available only through vets. It is pure beef, U100 strength, comes in PZI, Lente, and Regular formulations, and has an official shelf life opened and refrigerated, of 28 days.

Import regulations:Good News for US insulin importers. As of November 2006, there is no longer a UDSA permit fee. For those in the US importing foreign insulins (especially beef and pork insulins from CP Pharma) the USDA permit is good for 5 years and the $94 permit fee has now been waived for personal importation. Import permits are granted on a case-by-case basis. As soon as USDA updates its website regarding the waiving of the fee, we will provide a link to this new information.

What do the strength numbers (U40, U100) mean?

The vials of what we call insulin actually contain a minute amount of crystalline insulin, which is suspended in a fluid (called diluent) that is mostly water. Pure, crystalline insulin is measured by weight, in international units (iU).

When combined with the other ingredients, insulin strength is expressed as U100, U50, and U40, meaning that there are 100, 50 or 40 international units of insulin per milliliter (ml) of diluent (the fluid). A ml of U40 contains 40iU of crystalline insulin, and therefore a 10ml vial will contain 400iU. The same vial of U100 strength, contains 1000iU of insulin, or 2.5 times as much. Think of U100 as being more concentrated than U40.

IDEXX PZI comes in U40 strength, CP Pharmaceuticals Hypurin® comes in U100 strength, and the compounded human "Regular" PZI's come in a variety of strengths. If your cat takes a very small dose, the more dilute insulin strengths can be easier to measure.

Syringes are designed to be used with a specific strength of insulin. U40 syringes contain a full cc (equivalent to 1ml) and have 40 unit marks. Measuring U40 insulin to the one unit mark in a U40 syringe, will contain 1iU of insulin. U100 syringes are most popular in a 3/10cc size, with 30 marks (100 marks per full cc). Measuring U100 insulin to one mark in a U100 syringe will also contain 1iU of insulin. Note that although the two syringes hold the same amount of active insulin, there's more (2.5 times as much) fluid in the U40 syringe -- it's more dilute.

UIDEXX PZI comes with a supply of U40 syringes. Some people like the U40 syringes for their more widely spaced unit markings, making small increments easier to see. Others feel there are advantages to using U100 (3/10cc capacity) syringes with U40 insulin. One unit of U40 insulin (1/40th of a ml) measures 2.5 units in a U100 syringe, so a very small dose of U40 can be more accurately measured in a U100 syringe, although it takes an eagle eye. U100 needles come in finer gauges (29 or 30 gauge, versus 27g with U40) and come in shorter and longer lengths, versus 1/2" for IDEXX U40. The rubber seal on IDEXX U40 is quite stiff and may bend a few syringes when using finer gauges.

WARNING: IDEXX specifically advises against doing a direct conversion between doses when changing insulin types. They recommend a starting dose of .1-.3 units per pound (or, .22-.66 units per kilogram) regardless of the old dose. For a 10-pound cat, the starting dose range would be 1-3 units (in a U40 syringe), or, multiplying by 2.5, 2.5 - 7.5 units of U40 insulin in a U100 syringe.

For help in converting between U40 and U100, please see our insulin conversion chart.

What about shelf life?

The factors affecting shelf life of a vial that has been opened are, exposure to light, accumulating contaminants from re-used syringes (or even new syringes), mixing with incompatible insulins, lack of refrigeration (loss of sterility), and at some point, chemical instability. Home testing will enable you to determine for yourself whether the insulin is maintaining its effectiveness. You will not be able to tell whether it is still reasonably sterile, or is teeming with bacteria. You should not use insulin that suddenly looks different. PZI is clear (not cloudy) with white sediment (no clumps), that when mixed gently, looks like watery milk. Compounded insulins, as well as user-diluted or mixed insulins have an opened-life of 30 to 90 days.

Which PZI should I get?

It is impossible to predict which insulin will work best for your particular cat. Two diabetic cats in the same household (i.e. same diet and schedule) can respond differently to the same insulin.

If your cat doesn't respond even to large doses of human insulin, meaning that blood sugar consistently stays very high despite doses larger than 1 unit per pound, and assuming there is not another serious problem causing the high blood sugars, it makes good sense to try the bovine PZI.

If your cat responds to human insulin, but bg's (blood glucose values) cannot be maintained within the ideal range of 100-300mg/dl (5.5 - 16.7 mm/ol), by all means consider PZI (either animal or human), but first, review the "lifestyle" suggestions below.

Lifestyles of the diabetic cat

Most people with a newly diagnosed diabetic cat start treatment with human insulins, injected twice a day, since they are widely available, relatively inexpensive, and will work well for many cats. If you're inexperienced (and/or have an inexperienced vet), and the insulin you're using "doesn't work", realize that the insulin is only about half the treatment. There's a great deal that you can learn to do to help the insulin (whatever it is) work longer and better. Even if you've been around the block a few times, if you’re having difficulties, these points are worth reviewing.

Many people turn to PZI because their cat exhibits wide swings in blood sugar levels, from 400+ (or more) to sub-100's, but with extremely variable (unpredictable) readings at all points on the curve. Very often, this is due to giving too much insulin without sufficient testing to see the whole cycle. If this is the case, cutting the dose in half (or more) for several days and more frequent testing will result in a flatter curve AND lower average numbers. Excessive doses of insulin can mean steep roller coaster curves, with peak readings (the insulin's strength is at its peak, and blood sugar is lowest) that vary from being dangerously low, to being higher than desirable. Large doses affect the insulin's duration as well, and may cause excessive overlapping of the next dose (a sign of this is a dinner bg reading much lower than the breakfast reading). If doses are overlapping, changing doses "on the fly" is inadvisable because the effect of the overlap on the next dose will always vary. It is most important where overlap is suspected to find a minimal dose that can be given consistently.

Insulin acts to push blood sugar levels down, diet is a major factor in what pushes blood sugars up. We try to balance the effect of the insulin with the appropriate diet and feeding schedule to obtain a flat curve in the target range (300 to 100mg/dl). With PZI, as with any long-acting insulin, the role of diet cannot be overstated. It is almost impossible to manage a large post-meal surge in blood sugar with a long acting insulin such as PZI (or Ultralente), due to its slow onset, and weak action. Trying to do so usually means excessively large doses, steep curves and widely variable readings at shot time. You can help a weak-acting insulin to control blood sugar by making dietary changes, and you'll get flatter curves and lower numbers overall. To avoid post-meal surges, make sure the diet (even if recommended by your old-school vet) is low in CARBOHYDRATES. Dry cereals (especially diets created for weight-loss) always have significantly more carbohydrates than wet food. When switched to an improved, carbohydrate-restricted, high protein diet, some cats produce enough insulin themselves and no longer need injected insulin. Cats are carnivores, and require no more than 6% carbohydrate (cereals contain as much as 30 or 40%). Purina has done case studies (soon to be made public, 1-800-222-8387 for more info) in which they observed that 93% of cats lower or eliminate insulin requirements when fed their new canned food called Purina CNM DM-Formula (prescription only). It is high in fiber and protein, low in carbohydrates. If you're unable to halt the post-meal surges without large doses, even with a corrected diet, consider trying a combination of a long-acting insulin at 12-hour intervals to provide "fasting" coverage, augmented at mealtimes with a fast-acting, short-duration insulin (use 2 syringes unless you know they're compatible. Usually only a fractional unit of the fast-acting insulin is needed, so you can dilute it.) Caution: substantially reducing carbohydrates in the diet is a POTENT factor in reducing blood sugars and altering bg curves, and it should not be done without also reducing insulin, and careful monitoring.

To get consistent curves, the diet must also be consistent. Caloric intake and schedule should be the same, day to day. If replacing dry food with canned food or "people food", be careful to replace the calories as well; dry foods have 3 or 4 times the calories, by weight. More calories require more insulin, fewer calories require less. Other sources of inconsistency: free feeding in a multi-cat household is not desirable. Canned foods may vary quite a bit in carbs and calories, depending on the "flavor". Detailed nutritional information can be obtained by calling the phone number listed on the can or bag. Be sure to compare equal caloric amounts.

Increasing soluble fiber (metamucil, psillium husks) is thought to slow and even out the process of digestion which may flatten out the insulin's peak (the lowest point on the bg curve) as well as moderate the post-meal rise in blood sugar. Be sure to monitor carefully when adding fiber.

Just enough duration from the previous dose to overlap the new dose while it's gaining strength is desirable. Too much overlap will (sooner or later) drop blood sugar too much. You’re aiming for 12-hour blood sugar values within around 10% of each other. Remember that even before you’ve achieved regulation, you want a gentle curve that gradually gets lower overall as dosage increases. A steep drop from a very high reading, to a good peak cannot achieve regulation in the end. 12-hour readings should be close enough to each other that dosage can remain consistent. If the 12-hour reading is so much lower that you cannot repeat the same dose consistently (assuming that the peak will also be a lot lower), you will have a roller-coaster situation where the affect of duration will always vary. The difference between doses that are "too much" and "too little" can be minute -- as little as a quarter-unit. If your cat is very sensitive to small increments, consider the more dilute PZI from IDEXX (U40 strength) and use a U100 syringe if necessary (see "Strength" discussion below). Unlike other insulin, diluting PZI yourself, is not recommended.

Make sure that you're keeping a consistent injection schedule, so that blood sugars don't get out of control due to an injection given too late, and don't plummet because the injection is given too early. What is "too late" and "too early" will depend on the insulin's duration for your cat.

For various reasons, insulin may be absorbed erratically, and this may affect large doses more than small ones. Avoid using the scruff of the neck for injections, as there is insufficient blood supply to that area. Rotate the injection site to avoid building scar tissue and consequent absorption problems.

Certain conditions render bodily tissue insensitive to insulin, this is called insulin resistance. Obesity is a major cause of insulin resistance. One of the most effective (and most challenging) ways for a fat cat to lower bg levels, and possibly eliminate the need for injected insulin altogether, is by losing excess weight. Exercise, smaller portions of a carb-restricted diet, reduced fat, or restriction or elimination of treats are ways to accomplish weight loss. Note that dry foods sold as low calorie, high fiber, for “Seniors” or weight-loss may be higher in carbohydrates, lower in protein than normal dry food (which is already higher in carbs than wet food), and should not be given to diabetics. Something is wrong if your cat appears to be "starving" -- he or she may have very high, or very low blood sugar at that time -- it is not necessary or desirable to starve your cat. High blood sugar alone is a major cause of insulin resistance -- you will notice that the same dose will have more impact when given at lower bg levels than at high levels.

Other causes for consistently high blood glucose values are, pregnancy, stress, certain medications (corticosteroids), infection (diabetics are especially susceptible to urinary infections) and disease (renal, hyperthyroidism, liver disease and cancer to name a few). These possibilities should be ruled out.

How Much Insulin is Too Much?

The Cornell University Feline Health Center has addressed the topic of high insulin doses in cats. Excessively high insulin doses are those greater than one to two units of insulin per pound per day. Felines who use more insulin than this should be evaluated more intensively. Other diseases may be underlying or complicating the diabetes mellitus and as a result, necessitate high insulin dosages. Problems with insulin injection, poor absorption or too rapid metabolism of insulin, or even insulin overdose are potential causes of an apparently excessive insulin requirement.

How to Give Injections to Cats

2008-02-29T05:17:00.000-08:00

Daily injections of insulin for your cat? The thought may at seem daunting, but with practice the injecting of insulin in your cat will become second nature. These instructions will give you the information you need to perform injections of cat insulin with confidence.

Pre-Injection

Establish a pleasant routine: You should be injecting at about the same time every day. Begin with petting or grooming or maybe even a low-carb, high protein treat. (Or a tiny amount of anything they love.)

At first, keep the syringe hidden or disguised. Cats do not have the clearest eyesight, so you have some leeway here. As long as the syringe is not initially in my hand ( I hold it sideways by the barrel in my mouth!), Austin is OK with my approach. After the cat becomes used to the routine, you probably won't have to do this. Many cats can be trained by verbal commands to come get their shots.

If hiding the syringe while you play is too hard, consider using the CAPPED syringe to rub all over your cat. Austin liked to have his face scratched with it, but I do have a little trouble getting him to leave the syringe alone once I uncap it for the injection.

Get on the same level as your cat: you down on the floor, cat up on a bed or counter, or in your lap. Do not assume a threatening posture (e.g. looming over the cat.)

Make yourself comfortable: Get into a comfortable position, and make sure your body is in a position relative to the cat that makes injection easy. For example, if you plan to inject in the neck with your right hand, make sure the cat is facing toward your left or at a right angle to you.

Performing the Injection

Keep your movements smooth.

Tent the cat's skin: Grasp the cat's skin between your thumb and index finger (fingers about an inch apart) and pinch firmly to tent the skin. The pinch will also help numb the area. Most people use the skin from between the shoulders up to high on the neck, but you can try the hips, too.

Most people, including veterinarians, make the mistake of injecting the insulin into the scruff of the neck. This area has a very poor blood supply and insulin absorption is thus rather erratic from this area. Use an area further back around the hips or flank or, ideally, on the sides of the stomach. Try to rotate sites also, because repeated injections in the same site can cause a "granuloma" or knot of tissue that has poor blood supply (which means the insulin isn't absorbed well).

Below are pictures of Jock, a hairless Sphynx cat, receiving an injection. The first photo shows tenting of the skin and the second photo shows injection into the abdomen near the navel. (If you use the abdomen or chest, avoid the nipples and the navel.) Notice how unconcerned Jock is about Sabina putting a needle into him and Sabina's good technique. (Thank you, Steve, for taking these pictures and letting us use them! More pictures of Jock getting his injection with an insulin pen are here.)

Tenting the skin Injecting

Try to see the skin to make sure you actually stick the needle into the skin. Giving the injection to the hair is called a "fur shot!" Doesn't help the cat much! Austin is long haired, so I try to brush aside his hair to expose a bit of his skin prior to the pinch. This is where he starts to get suspicious, but I often do the pinch several times before I actually inject.

Once you are ready to inject, try to be as quick, smooth, and confident as possible. (Practice makes perfect!)

If you have more than one cat, consider going through this routine with the non-diabetic first, doing a pretend injection only, but letting your diabetic cat see the syringe near the other cat. Always the sucker, Austin would get jealous of the attention being given to Eugene and come running when I'd do this.

Use correct Position: Hold the syringe almost parallel to the cat's spine. You want the insulin to be injected just under the skin (subcutaneous) NOT into the muscle, which hurts! Make sure the bevel of the needle is UP. This ensures a clean, quick puncture instead of a drag through the skin.

Be Quick, Confident: Do the puncture quickly. Most of the pain nerves are at the very surface of the skin and once you get past them things improve. Remember that a relatively firm pinch works to help numb the area. The very small size (gauge) needles available now hardly are felt at all by the cat, even without pinching the area. Once the needle is through the skin you can slow down a bit.

Follow Up: Once you are through, give the cats lots of hugs, kisses, praise, and maybe another tiny treat.

Last updated 4/28/05

Tips from our readers

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I have a friend who is an RN, and she had advised me to hold the fluid-filled syringe in my fingertips to warm up the insulin for a couple minutes prior to injecting it, as the insulin temperature from the refrigerator is very bothersome to human patients and warming it up makes it easier to take. Also, use the ultrafine needles.
(Cindy Rinehart)
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We had a terrible time with Scooter when we tried to inject using the 'tent' method, which was taught to us by the animal health technician at the local vets office. On a subsequent visit with the Vet, himself an owner of a diabetic cat, he displayed a different technique which works VERY WELL with Scooter, and she displays much less reaction and definitely less pain.

The technique is to pinch some of the skin (for me using my left hand) between your thumb and forefinger (trying to avoid grabbing muscle underneath) and ROLL your hand sideways (for me, rolling my hand over to the left)pulling the skin over your finger...this makes the cats skin MUCH TIGHTER than pinching it up into a tent, and the tighter the skin, the easier the needle penetrates without pulling.

The technique literally meant the difference between night and day, success and failure in our commitment to do what needed to be done to keep Scoots going. Just thought it worth sharing, some people might find it makes the difference for them.
(Pat and Shelley and Scooter)
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As you fill the syringe, it is important to make sure that there are no big bubbles in the syringe (some of the itty bitty ones just don't go away). This is crucial, considering the very small dosages that many of us are using 3 units from a 100 unit/mL product like Humulin, is only 3/10 of an milliliter; just a drop. You want to make sure that kitty gets the full dosage. Usually, pulling back on the plunger slowly, avoids big bubbles. If you get a bubble, push the plunger back in and try filling the syringe again. Sometimes, it takes more than one or two tries.

I highly recommend that the syringe be used only once. The syringes are designed for single use (I used to work for a company that made disposable syringes). It is the best way to be sure that you are not contaminating your bottle of insulin with and that kitty gets a fresh, sharp needle with each injection. Needles do get dull and develop burrs which can make shot time a little more difficult. Used syringes are best disposed of in a "sharps" container; drugstores that carry insulin should have them and they are relatively inexpensive ($2-$3); just ask the pharmacist for it. The filled containers can be turned into the vet for proper disposal (incinerated, at least in California). A hospital or doctor's office may also be willing to help with proper disposal.
(Rikki)
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I do have one trick my fiance taught me about the injections (he's a physician so that has certainly helped!!): Hold the syringe with your ring and middle finger and keep your index finger on the "handle" by the plunger and use the syringe like a dart. Once the needle is in it's a very simple thing to just lift your index finger onto the plunger and inject! You may already know this, but it was news to me!! I'd never given a shot and was more than overwhelmed at the idea of doing so!! This technique has made things much easier and the syringe is kept very stable so it doesn't hurt Isaac at all. You've also got a really good grip on the syringe so there's no way to mess it up as long as you keep a little forward pressure on the syringe.
(Cynthia)
*

My 12 year old cat was diagnosed two years with diabetes. It took time to develop a routine he would tolerate. In the beginning, I tried to catch him off guard to give the injections. But he seems to tolerate it better if he knows he is getting the injection. I began a routine--feed him, give him a few minutes to groom himself after eating, then fill the syringe and let him see it and then give the injection and pet and praise him after the injection is given. It seems to have developed a level of trust. Prior to that, when I tried catching him off guard, he was always weary of me when I approached him. Each cat is different and it just takes time to learn what they will tolerate. I give two injections daily, so I also began the routine of giving the a.m. injection on his left side and the p.m. injection on the right side so I was not giving shots in the same place. Also, when he was first diagnosed before the insulin level was regulated, there was a problem with him urinating in inappropriate places. For a time, I restricted him to one room and then after the insulin level was regulated he went back to using the litter pan. In the beginning, it is quite frustrating, but given a little time and effort, you both can adjust to it. I'm glad I toughed it out.
(Chery Smoth)

Insulin Administration for Cats

2008-02-29T05:14:00.000-08:00

Insulin 101
- written by R. Jung, 2004, but with significant contributions from Kimber & Bunny. To see Kimber's document, you can look at this post on the FDMB health forum or you can go to Gorbzilla.com . Thanks, Kimber!

1. KNOW THE TYPE OF INSULIN & HAVE THE RIGHT SYRINGE. All human insulins (Humulin and others) in the United States are a concentration called U-100. PZI is often U-40. The syringe must match the concentration of the insulin. To be sure you get the right syringe, take your insulin (or the insulin box) into your pharmacist when you go to buy syringes and the pharmacist will make sure you get the right syringes. When you buy the next batch of syringes, take the syringe packaging with you to make sure you buy the right type. If you must use the wrong syringe, use our conversion chart.

2. FOOD. Always make sure your cat eats around the time (up to one hour before injection) of the insulin administration. This will insure that the cat has food in her stomach (and rising blood glucose levels as a result) to counteract the fast action of Humulin N. If your cat is having trouble with vomiting, be very careful and watch for possible hypoglycemic episodes.

3. DO A CURVE & HOME-TEST. This is highly recommended with all insulin use and can be done at home or at the veterinarian's office. FelineDiabetes.com highly recommends home-testing for the best care of your cat, with periodic tests by your vet, including some of the "long-term control" tests such as fructosamine and hemoglobin A1c. Home-testing will greatly assist you in regulating your cat and dramatically decrease the chance of a hypoglycemic episode. It is important to know when the insulin peaks (causes the lowest, or nadir, blood glucose reading) because the time of the nadir varies from cat to cat and also depends on such things as associated illnesses, food intake and exercise. General guidelines for insulin peaks and nadirs in humans are available on many manufacturers' web sites (see references, below).

Knowing the peak action time of the insulin is very important because you do not want your cat to have a hypoglycemic episode that is potentially fatal. Also, you cannot adjust a dosage on a preinjection glucose level alone. Even if the blood glucose level is high before the injection is given, the level can still drop to hypoglycemic levels after injection. Consistently high pre-injection glucose levels can also mean a rebound affect from the insulin causing dangerously low nadirs. If you don't know the nadir level of glucose, you may be tempted to increase the insulin dosage based on the pre-injection levels. This would be incorrect because then the nadir level would go even lower. Do not adjust insulin dosages without your veterinarian's approval and without knowing ALL the data.

To construct a blood glucose curve, check and record the glucose levels at the following times:

One hour prior to injection. Next, one hour after injection and then every one hour after that the numbers have reached a low point and are starting to increase again. You can then do a check two hours later and stop when the numbers are consistently rising. If you are using a long-acting insulin such as L (lente) or Lantis, you may want to check every 2 hours after injection.

4. MAKE CHANGES CAUTIOUSLY. Although short-term reactions to insulin are quick, it still takes about two weeks for the cat's body to fully adjust to a new insulin dose. This can be complicated by changes in diet, exercise, and any associated illnesses. Reducing carbohydrates in the diet is a POTENT factor in reducing blood sugars, and it should not be done without also reducing insulin, and careful monitoring. Go slow (unless you obviously need to DECREASE a dose to prevent a hypoglycemic episode) and make one change in your cat's routine at a time.

5. PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR CAT. Numbers are great, theoretically. Just because your cat's blood glucose levels are in a "normal range," he may still be symptomatic. Note the cat's gait, the water intake and amount of urination, the weight. Your cat may need glucose levels that are higher (or even lower) than "ideal." Work with your vet and make sure you get at least annual exams that include a full blood workup.

6. GET REGULAR CHECKUPS FROM YOUR VET. Current recommendations from the Association of Feline Practitioners is to get a fructosamine or A1c test every 6 months if regulated, every 3 months if not regulated. Again, you and your vet will best determine the frequency of your cat's visits to the vet. Diabetes affects many organs, so function of the kidneys, liver, heart, etc. must be done periodically, at least once per year. Your cat can get other diseases besides diabetes and regular checkups can help in early diagnosis for optimum treatment. Home tests are becoming available for fructosamine and A1c but you still need to go to your vet for a full blood workup once a year.

7. SUGAR. You need to keep a source of simple sugars (glucose, fructose, dextrose, etc.) on hand in the case of an apparent hypoglycemic reaction. Karo syrup, honey, and molasses are cheap and available. If you suspect a hypoglycemic reaction, immediately rub the syrup on the gums or inside of the cheek. If the cat is unconscious or having seizures, be very careful not to give too much at once as this can cause choking and aspiration. In this case, you must be cautious in administration and get to an emergency vet immediately.

Don't worry about your cat's glucose going to high in this event. Hyperglycemia will not kill immediately and short-term hyperglycemia is unlikely to have any adverse affects. Conversely, hypoglycemia can kill and kill quickly. Forget the mess, forget checking blood sugar levels. Rub a sugar syrup on the gums, and repeat even if you are on your way to the ER.

8. SEMI-MOIST FOOD/TREATS. Get to know the "glycemic index" or sugar content of food and treats. Many semi-moist foods and also milk can cause big spikes in blood glucose levels. You will want to avoid these foods and treats during the regulation period and use them sparingly afterward. 8. KNOW YOUR CAT. There may come a time when kitty does not want to eat what s/he is supposed to. It is important to know what foods you can give to entice eating, as it is crucial for the cat to eat while on insulin! Also, if you are curving and kitty's numbers start dropping too low before and/or during peak, it is lifesaving to know what to give in order to start increasing numbers. Things that have worked for myself and others: vanilla ice cream, gravy, white bread, Catsip, donuts, popcorn, dry cat food or dry cat food with tuna water dumped on it, semi-moist cat treats. You will want to know beforehand what high carb foods your cat loves, and will readily eat, so that should you find yourself in a situation where your kitty's numbers are going too low, you already have a supply on hand, and won't waste precious moments experimenting with different foods.

9. "START LOW GO SLOW". This is a popular saying on the Feline Diabetes Message Board. Of course, you want to get your cat regulated quickly (especially for your sake!!) but if you start too high, you greatly increase the risk of hypoglycemia and also prolong the time it will take to get your cat regulated. Many people have found that ½ a unit BID or 1 unit BID ends up being the perfect dosage to keep kitty in the 100-300 range. If your cat requires high dosages of insulin, she needs to be checked for other illnesses and have her diet evaluated. The Cornell University Feline Health Center defines excessively high insulin doses are those greater than one to two units of insulin per pound per day. Felines who use more insulin than this should be evaluated more intensively. Other diseases may be underlying or complicating the diabetes mellitus and as a result, necessitate high insulin dosages. Problems with insulin injection, poor absorption or too rapid metabolism of insulin, or even insulin overdose are potential causes of an apparently excessive insulin requirement.

10. GET SUPPORT. The best place for almost immediate support for your pet's health is the Feline Diabetes Message Board. Often, you will get immediate replies to your questions. Develop a good relationship with your veterinarian and make sure you know where to take your cat for emergency treatment. Find neighbors, older school kids, relatives, and pet sitters who will learn about feline diabetes and give insulin injections. A lot of people may be reluctant at first, but I've always found plenty of back-up support.

Don't get discouraged! Thousands of us take care of cats with diabetes. You can, too.

REFERENCES:

American Association of Feline Practitioners, http://www.aafponline.org

Cornell Feline Health Center, http://www.vet.cornell.edu/Public/FHC/diabetes.html

Feline Diabetes Dictionary, 2004, http://www.felinediabetes.com/dictionary/index.html

Feline Diabetes Education, http://www.felinediabetes.com/faq.htm

Feline Diabetes Message Board, http://www.felinediabetes.com/terms.htm

Glycemic Index, Rick Mendosa, http://diabetes.about.com/library/mendosagi/nmendosagi.htm

Human Insulin Time Activity Profiles, http://www.lillydiabetes.com/Products/TimeActivityProfiles.cfm

©2004
Updated January 2004

Treatment of Diabetes in Cats

2008-02-29T05:09:00.000-08:00

The initial shock and fear you feel when the vet tells you that your pet has diabetes can be overwhelming. Yet diabetes is a treatable condition and your pet can live a normal, happy, healthy life. Diabetes is not a death sentence for your pet!

Do you think treatment is too difficult?

A recent post (10/9/06) by Allie and Myrtle from the FDMB may be helpful to you:

When we humans are diagnosed with an illness we head for the internet, and I'm sure it the same for many cat owners who hesitate about treating their cats. Let's say they put off the decision to put their cat to sleep until they have found out what treatment involves. Let's say they come here, and see the dedicated treatment given by everyone here – shots, home-testing, blood curves, ketone testing, spot checks, discussions about dosages of 1.2 units or 1.75 units, U40 insulins, gauges of needles. I'll call it the 5 star treatment (or even 5+ stars for those who do tight regulation – but let's not get into any controversy about that!!)

I'm not here concerned with those who KNOW they will treat their cat – these introduce themselves, they receive a lot of help and kindness and reassurance, and sooner or later they are on their way to becoming experts themselves. It's the ones who really aren't committed to treating that concern me here. How many of these people come to the FDMB and think ..... OMG !!!!!!!!!! and presume that it has to be “all” (represented by the treatment described here) or “nothing”. Maybe they go away because they are just not up for all that, and get the cat put to sleep (PTS).

People who are not sure they want to treat their cat have a variety of reasons (No more holidays? No more lie-ins? Cost? Work schedules? Pressure by other family and friends to PTS? Half-wild cat?) I'm not going to call any of those things selfish – it's not for me to judge. I just want to say to them (1) I also hesitated about treatment, not because I was unwilling/unable to devote time and money, but because I didn't think I stood a snowball's chance in hell of getting Myrtle to accept injections, let alone anything else. And (2) – it is NOT “all or nothing”. There are “degrees” of treatment. I myself do a sort of 3 star treatment, without home blood glucose testing! And I also believe some people just are not up for a total dedication and commitment right from the beginning, but may very well work their way up to it as they go along, once they have found out in a practical way what it might involve, and that it is not as difficult, time-consuming, costly, etc as they imagined.

Although everyone here is very kind and helpful to newbies who want to treat and who introduce themselves, the really wavering types usually never post at all, and one or two brave souls who are honest enough to say they are thinking of putting to sleep get pelted with bricks. Please, let's not drive them away unnecessarily, for their cat's sake.

I'm a believer in the expression “a spoonful of honey catches more flies than a barrelful of vinegar”. I want to say to the hesitant “Just try it! Give it a go, before you make a final decision!” I'm sure the reason why many vets start cats off on once a day dosing (SID to those unfamiliar with jargon who might read this) is just for this very reason – that even this is better than nothing to get someone on the insulin road (once it's clear that it's needed). I recall my own vet did this, and I was hugely relieved! I thought I'd be lucky to even do that! But he did say it would probably need to be twice a day soon ... within 3 weeks it was me who asked to switch from SID to BID (2 x a day).

I recall what he said to me when Myrtle was first diagnosed and I asked “What if I leave her untreated?” He did not say “She will starve to death” or put any such guilt trip on me; he said she would be more vulnerable to infections, especially urinary tract infections, and probably other things I don't remember. The thing that clinched it for me was when he said “I think if you at least just try it, you will feel better about yourself”. How true! I knew I personally would not have forgiven myself if I hadn't tried. And even though Myrtle doesn't get the 5 star treatment, she is so well and happy, and behaving like a much younger cat, that I can't help but thank God I DID give it a go!

It's NOT all or nothing – you can start with SID dosing if you can't manage more (yet). You can urine test if you or your cat can't or won't do the ear pricks and blood tests (yet). And be sure that this is a very treatable disease, and most rewarding for those who do start out on the “insulin road”. You may even have your cat go into remission! But you won't know unless you try!